Self oil burning

[IDIBRONCO]

You can at this cliff with the ball but is a bit messy, it also wants to skip and go round.

I had the same experience so I seldom use it.

From there I lightly skimed the inlet so smother, it dose get more off than the rolls could in a shorter time.

Yes it sure does. I don't use the rolls much either. Just enough to smooth out the marks that I left.

Cleaning that inner radius that is blind, I say would be best by hand with small stips if ambitious or hard headed like me.

off the bend may only show benifit under a lot of boost on the intake side.

I decided that the inner bends don't affect the air flow as much as the outer ones do so I just get what I can and don't worry about the rest. I feel that the porting makes the biggest (relatively) improvement in N/A engines. They don't make as much power so a small gain feels like it's bigger. If an engine is making quite a bit of power, you may not even be able to notice the difference. Wes said that he saw lower EGT's by porting so I feel that it's worth the effort just for that fact alone.

 

[1mouse3]

Now on to finisihing the intake on this head like matching the tapper on the guild boss that I did on the other head.

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I started with the large flame to make the tapper, this flame works better than the wore out one I use on the othe head.

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Then took the small flame to blend into the port, this path works out better.

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Then on to fake rough micro roloc, sand paper, then fine fake roloc to smooth the face.

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Now clean up on aisle 13.

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[1mouse3]

Now on to gasket matching the exhaust to spec I pull the other head to.

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I started by bringing fixed points into spec.

F=.45in

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E=.755in

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D=.625in

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Getting on to the next step ran into to major problem. Them cheap burrs wear a round edge that digs and bites hard, so will spin round in the port. This burr is dangerous and don't recommend its use, get a quality one for this work. This snap-on may be getting dull but has not rounded its edges, so is safe to still use. It also makes a cleaner cut that dose not leave scales like the cheap one dose.

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With A&B, not a lot is taken off A but a bit of digging is done at B. B is pulled straigt in the port and made a clean radius to D.

A=1.675in

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B=1.800in

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This is what it looks like after cutting A&B.

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Now on to making a paper dragon

C=1.725in

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I made this cut as flat as I can.

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Then went to blend it into the port.

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Then just knocked off the sharp edge on the chamfer that was made.

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Now its a mirror copy of the other head.

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[Booyah45828]

The last carbide porting burrs I bought were from eastwood. They had like a 6 inch long shank, which made them nice for situations like this. They worked great, but needed a variable speed grinder, as they would develop a bad harmonic in them that would cause them to jump around if operated at the wrong speed. Jumping around would cause tooth breakage, so low and slow was the way to go.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Mine are from Eastwood as well (not counting the cheap Chinese long ones). I haven't noticed the harmonic problem that you mentioned.
I don't go all out for very long when head porting anyway. At the most, I'll port for about 10 minutes and then let my compressor catch back up. After 30-45 minutes, I'll take a break to do something else for a while to give the compressor a chance to cool off some too. My compressor is inside a little closet-like room that was there when I bought the garage. It's nice and quiet with the door closed. While porting heads, I leave the door open and run a box fan inside the doorway to blow some of the hottest air out. I try to not port heads while it's very hot outside either. That is all to (hopefully) help keep the heat away from the compressor to extend it's life). It can be about 55* outside and there will be quite a bit of heat coming out of the compressor room while I'm porting heads.
Yes. As soon as I saw that little room in my garage, I knew that I was going to keep my compressor in there. I hate the sound of a loud air compressor. Especially in the winter time when the garage is all closed up.

 

[1mouse3]

I got the exhaust boss tapper done today.

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[1mouse3]

Those eastwood one are about same cost as the cheap ones I got. My die grinder is all or nothing electric, it dose not have the paddle like the anngle ones got even tho same tail assemble. So can go hog wild all day, it treats bits like its,,, So now knowing how it treats lesser bits, Im only going with tungsten carbide burs. This would probully be the set I go with whenever I get to play with some fe heads for the 390.

Tungsten carbide burs set

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[IDIBRONCO]

Tungsten carbide burs set

Those ought to work just fine. I've never bought anything from Matco. I've only been around one dealer and he was a big time (another word for donkey). I won't go into details, but suffice it to say that I've never stepped foot on a Matco truck. I've only seen Snap-On around here and I don't see him any more since they closed the local service station.

 

[1mouse3]

I've only seen Snap-On around here and I don't see him any more since they closed the local service station.

I guess I am lucky to have number to guy with truck, so can go meet where he is in st louis.

 

[1mouse3]

Looking at the other head I knoked this edge off, so went to do it here.

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Edit: So your just going to sit there drooling past me, he did not do much except some shoe shinning with some rolls.

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[1mouse3]

Now clean up on aisle 13.

Fine, I will clean up your mess. Did some final shinning with the roll on the intake side, dont know why a light was not used on 2nd pic.

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No really getting to this point, so leaving it. Next up is truing up the deck surface, going to see what can be found at the hardware store.

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[MikeM.]

Have ran across this post

head flow

So base on that and what I have found trying to clean them up, there might not be any way to gain anything from the intake side. When you try at the bend you end up taking off more than you want and can easly make it worse. So any light work and not doing really anything off the bend may only show benifit under a lot of boost on the intake side. The exhaust side tho show that something can be done with out making a mess, along with a gasket match could help out. I dont have a flow bench so cant tell what affect I have made on the intake side.

With all that extra weight you've removed, I'm thinking your 1/4 mile times are going to improve even if the flow hasn't changed!

 

[1mouse3]

Today I took a gamble to see if can recess the glow plug outter face to run unmodified 60g plugs, looks like a 7/16 bit wont make a glory hole in one. This depth might work but will know when have new plugs in hand, if good will go on to the others
.

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[Booyah45828]

I don't think I've ever seen that done. I used my lathe on mine, but doing this might be easier then knocking them down with a bench grinder.

 

[1mouse3]

A depth of .28 is adequate to get the plug down on the seat, a light smear of grease shows such.

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Be careful not to let the bit go full send, it though about it with one of them. Tape might help on the bit to help gauge depth but was using grease to catch chips, so did not think about it.

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So these heads are fitted for 60g plugs.

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