Russ hard line delete kit help

hacked89

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That was what my brain was telling me. I should do something with this return line to go somewhere instead of just sticking a bolt in it.
And, as I had asked, should I change the #2 injector cap to a 2-barb angled cap so it could receive the return fuel line from #1? It sounds like that's what you did.

Russ did reply to my email about the issue, even though he's having a tough time at home. I do appreciate that.
He said to plug the return line. It may be fine. It just doesn't feel right to me.
I've already got 6+ hours into a 2 hour job and I still don't know what's the best way that it should be done.
Yes, what I did. Change #2 to 2-barb 90 angle and connect 1&2.
 

Brian VT

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Thank you. That is what I'll do tomorrow, if I can find the time. It seems to make at least a little more sense to me than "plugging" it. Although maybe it really makes no difference than plugging it.
And then I'll probably have a new cap that leaks, right? lol
Fun with old trucks. Maybe I'm not built for this. :-(
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Thank you. That is what I'll do tomorrow, if I can find the time. It seems to make at least a little more sense to me than "plugging" it. Although maybe it really makes no difference than plugging it.
And then I'll probably have a new cap that leaks, right? lol
Fun with old trucks. Maybe I'm not built for this. :-(
Get new orings to have extras(if possible) and use *grease* to assemble them. The grease will not hurt Viton and will keep the chance of cutting them to the minimum. Also when getting new orings on, put the top oring on first and the lower on second, less chances of it getting knicked or cut that way too.
I heard about this a few years ago and those of us that did it are having great results.
 

captain720

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Use far more grease than seems even reasonable just put it in there and wipe off the extra the o rings are sensative and your not gonna clog anything and an idi wont mid the grease returned to the tank. Obviously don’t be insane but put some GREASE on those things.
 

hacked89

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Whenever I remove or put a cap on I put new o rings and just throw them in a pile of vasoline before. Haven’t had an issue. One of the biggest things I’ve seen that causes leaks is people using the incorrect length hoses that caused pressure on the cap.
 

typ4

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That's what I told him. And I forgot about the TSB.
 

typ4

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Get new orings to have extras(if possible) and use *grease* to assemble them. The grease will not hurt Viton and will keep the chance of cutting them to the minimum. Also when getting new orings on, put the top oring on first and the lower on second, less chances of it getting knicked or cut that way too.
I heard about this a few years ago and those of us that did it are having great results.
My kits come with a dozen extra o-rings just for things like this.
And a tube of super lube to lube the o-rings
 

WrenchWhore

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I went out and shot some pics of what I did. Basically delete the barb from the filter head with Russ's kit then get crafty with the return cap. I filled it with JB weld. Left it smooth on the inside of the return cap so it wouldn't snag the o-ring on install and popped a brake bleed cap on it just incase. This is my temporary fix until I get another good return cap without the extra hole.
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Brian VT

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I ended up replacing the #1 cap with a 1-barb dead-end cap like #2 has. I was so frustrated that this 2-hour job was now into day 2 that I didn't even bother replacing the o-rings. I just pulled the old cap off and threw the new one on because, the way this job has been going for me, I figured I'd have leaks everywhere any way so why bother trying to do things "right" anymore when a simple job is already biting you hard in the ass. Expect more crap and deal with it as it comes.
Well, I had no leaks anywhere.
So now it has all new injector hard lines and deleted the fuel supply hard line.
I have no idea if there is any benefit to all this time and money, but it's done.
I appreciate the input and help from those here.
 

Old Goat

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I have been searching for the past hour on Google and all the saved threads I have in various folders.
I really thought I had saved the TSB on the Filter delete line.
Even on a lengthly Google search cannot find it.

I deleted the return line from Filter to Injector cap 4 years ago. never a problem

I installed the Hard Line delete from Filter to IP about the same time. Pretty straight for ward job.


Goat
 

Old Goat

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I Google that TSB # and keeps coming back to the thread you posted.
I read the TSB and it mentions to delete the bleed off hose, but it is not posted in that thread.


Goat
 

Brian VT

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Original design plus a check valve sounds like the proper thing to do.
But then more parts to fail or leak.
 

captain720

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Original design plus a check valve sounds like the proper thing to do.
But then more parts to fail or leak.
So interestingly enough the way everyone routes the lines actually qualifies as original design as it is simply “late original design” according to Justin.
 

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