Russ hard line delete kit help

[The_Josh_Bear]

Small clarification, don’t use thread tape. Liquid PTFE or similar.

I guess I should have said "fuel-rated thread tape". I've used it for years and it beats the heck out of trying to get these chinesium NPT fittings to seal up by using more force. Never tried liquid PTFE, obviously it's a lubricating deal, I guess that helps get the extra 1/2 turn for the interference fit to work better?

 

[hacked89]

I guess I should have said "fuel-rated thread tape". I've used it for years and it beats the heck out of trying to get these chinesium NPT fittings to seal up by using more force. Never tried liquid PTFE, obviously it's a lubricating deal, I guess that helps get the extra 1/2 turn for the interference fit to work better?

Yes, you don’t want to risk any tape potentially going into the fuel system. By the book it will call for thread sealant in certain places and it’s either going to be aviation for the gaskets or sealant with ptfe like the pic below. There’s only one place in 3 years I begrudgingly used fuel tape and it was the Chinese fit between adapters on the warlboro pump. Very bad tolerance.

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[Brian VT]

Good info. Thank you all.
None of this info. came up with a search. Nor with the delete kit that I bought.
I guess I'll be headed to town tomorrow to try to find this thread sealant.
Ugh.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Yes, you don’t want to risk any tape potentially going into the fuel system. By the book it will call for thread sealant in certain places and it’s either going to be aviation for the gaskets or sealant with ptfe like the pic below. There’s only one place in 3 years I begrudgingly used fuel tape and it was the Chinese fit between adapters on the warlboro pump. Very bad tolerance.

OH now I gotcha. It's a liquid thread sealer with PTFE in it. I was picturing like PTFE in a solvent or something and all it did was make the joint slippery.

Edit: So is it better for a glob of that stuff to go into the fuel sustem? I know that sounds sarcastic but I don't really see the difference. How does it act when you take it apart for some reason, can you clean it off?

 

[chillman88]

If you're worried about that return line mine has been plugged on both my trucks since I bought them without any issues so far.

As far as the tape vs goop.... The general thought is the goop will "break up" whereas the tape will be strands that will get caught in stuff. Truthfully I wouldn't want either in my IP but I've been using the goop for years now. I only use Teflon tape at home for water.

 

[Brian VT]

Ugh.
I wonder why I'm the first to ask here about all of this. After so many have recommended it.
I don't want to leave a return hose with a bolt stuffed in it hanging there.
I guess I may put a dead-end cap on #1 and then get that seal stuff for the new threads of the kit (and hope my #1 cap doesn't leak after I change it).
Or maybe I'll just replace the olives on my hard line and send the kit back.

Thank you for for all the replies. I really do appreciate you guys.
I thought this would be an easy/quick reply when I posted it, but I guess not.

 

[hacked89]

OH now I gotcha. It's a liquid thread sealer with PTFE in it. I was picturing like PTFE in a solvent or something and all it did was make the joint slippery.

Edit: So is it better for a glob of that stuff to go into the fuel sustem? I know that sounds sarcastic but I don't really see the difference. How does it act when you take it apart for some reason, can you clean it off?

The goop can pass through the tape gets strands and can cause issues like chill said. Anything can cause issues but goop less chance.

 

[hacked89]

Brian you mentioned it in one of your considerations but here’s where I cross mine between #1 and #2. Safest place to cross is the front of engine on a turbo especially. I’m not fond of how the factory goes under the GP controller on factory NA where it’s tough to see.

Most of all, ask Russ @typ4 who you bought it from what his guidance is.

The filter head return is one of the primary sources of air intrusion I’d delete it. I think there was even a TSB on it in the late 80s, I can check All Data. I’m currently logged in anyway working on a harness.

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[Clb]

Small

Small clarification, don’t use thread tape. Liquid PTFE or similar.

Rectorseal
period


Wipe off the first threads to stop contamination...

 

[hacked89]

Rectorseal
period


Wipe off the first threads to stop contamination...

Father was hvac. Never used rect on automotive, interesting.

 

[Brian VT]

Brian you mentioned it in one of your considerations but here’s where I cross mine between #1 and #2. Safest place to cross is the front of engine on a turbo especially. I’m not fond of how the factory goes under the GP controller on factory NA where it’s tough to see.

Most of all, ask Russ @typ4 who you bought it from what his guidance is.

That was what my brain was telling me. I should do something with this return line to go somewhere instead of just sticking a bolt in it.
And, as I had asked, should I change the #2 injector cap to a 2-barb angled cap so it could receive the return fuel line from #1? It sounds like that's what you did.

Russ did reply to my email about the issue, even though he's having a tough time at home. I do appreciate that.
He said to plug the return line. It may be fine. It just doesn't feel right to me.
I've already got 6+ hours into a 2 hour job and I still don't know what's the best way that it should be done.

 

[Nero]

Jeez. You all have been great. And I think I've helped out a few here also.
Didn't expect this. :-(
Maybe I pissed someone here off.
I guess I'll have to throw it together the best I can figure and see what happens.

Dang, I would have given more input if I had known what kit you had purchased and what it does. To me, metal delete kit? Makes me think you're getting rid of the metal return line that travels down the drivers side of the engine? I don't recognize the fittings in regards to where they would even go....

 

[Brian VT]

Also, a review on new Accurate Diesel injector lines coming in a future thread.
Not a good day here. :-(

 

[chillman88]

I wonder why I'm the first to ask here about all of this. After so many have recommended it.
I don't want to leave a return hose with a bolt stuffed in it hanging there.
I guess I may put a dead-end cap on #1 and then get that seal stuff for the new threads of the kit (and hope my #1 cap doesn't leak after I change it).

Probably because you have a 6.9 and the 7.3 has the return line separate from the IP feed line. Not sure, just an idea.

 

[chillman88]

He said to plug the return line. It may be fine. It just doesn't feel right to me.

The ONLY purpose for THAT return line is to bleed excess air from the filter head before it reaches the IP. There was actually a TSB from Ford at some point to plug that line to prevent air intrusion and drainback, although I don't have the TSB number...

I certainly understand your hesitation, but at this point just plug it and be done with it. You can always do something about it later if it's still bugging you. At least this way everything will be back together and you can drive it.