Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
Seems like the positive return pressure should just go back to the tank. I really doubt it's possible to create a suction.
Russ hard line delete kit help
- Thread starter Brian VT
- Start date
Brian VT
Full Access Member
I'm worried that putting another dead end in the system could create more pressure/resistance and cause #1 cap (or more) to leak. These caps seem so damned finicky. I'd hate to make it worse.
I'll never understand why they don't have a better sealing system than these caps/o-rings . They create so many problems for so many.
I'll never understand why they don't have a better sealing system than these caps/o-rings . They create so many problems for so many.
Last edited:
hacked89
Full Access Member
You posted this about one hour after creating the thread, do you think we are like customer service agents on standby?
And since the last site upgrade the admin didn’t feel like doing the work to keep tapatalk there’s no push alerts anymore.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
That's why I'd just plug it until I was certain.
Jesus Freak
Full Access Member
I do, now what do you think?
hacked89
Full Access Member
aslong as the two return banks are connected in atleast one location you can have it in pretty much any orientation. There’s very little pressure on the return system.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Yes you can plug the return line at the filter head.
The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Ok besides the return line I'm not sure where you need the help so I'll try to cover it all.
The fittings that house the olives have to go. You seem to get that, hence asking about the return line. SO:
IP:
1. Pull those brass fittings for the olives off the filter housing and the IP.
2. Use thread tape for the push-lok barb onto the 90*, it's easier out of the truck.
3. Screw the ORB fitting into the IP. The oring seals beautifully as that's the correct fitting for that.
4. The 90* is a swivel fitting so do that piece last, that way your other connections are tight and you can point the hose whatever direction you like.
Filter housing:
1. Pull the brass fitting off the housing if you didn't do both on step 1 for the IP.
2. Add the 90* to the housing. Don't forget thread tape. (It's easier when short)
3. Tape again then add the push-lok.
4. Push one end of the hose onto each push-lok fitting, all the way. Don't use lubrication except a little soapy water for the best seal.
Your filter housing is earlier than mine. I never had the 2-way brass fitting like you do so I was able keep my return as it had it's own boss. If you have a spare port on the housing left over(can't see the bosses in the picture) then just use that.
In fact you could thread an 1/8 NPT barb fitting into the Schrader valve location to be your return until you figure out how you want to do it. None of us use the Schrader for anything anyways...
edit: Thank God for editing...my first drafts are brutal some days. I couldn't even get my numbers sequential
The fittings that house the olives have to go. You seem to get that, hence asking about the return line. SO:
IP:
1. Pull those brass fittings for the olives off the filter housing and the IP.
2. Use thread tape for the push-lok barb onto the 90*, it's easier out of the truck.
3. Screw the ORB fitting into the IP. The oring seals beautifully as that's the correct fitting for that.
4. The 90* is a swivel fitting so do that piece last, that way your other connections are tight and you can point the hose whatever direction you like.
Filter housing:
1. Pull the brass fitting off the housing if you didn't do both on step 1 for the IP.
2. Add the 90* to the housing. Don't forget thread tape. (It's easier when short)
3. Tape again then add the push-lok.
4. Push one end of the hose onto each push-lok fitting, all the way. Don't use lubrication except a little soapy water for the best seal.
Your filter housing is earlier than mine. I never had the 2-way brass fitting like you do so I was able keep my return as it had it's own boss. If you have a spare port on the housing left over(can't see the bosses in the picture) then just use that.
In fact you could thread an 1/8 NPT barb fitting into the Schrader valve location to be your return until you figure out how you want to do it. None of us use the Schrader for anything anyways...
edit: Thank God for editing...my first drafts are brutal some days. I couldn't even get my numbers sequential
Brian VT
Full Access Member
Certainly not. And I was only hoping that someone happened to be here that could help quickly.
It was the weird/sarcastic initial replies that prompted my "***"?
Not fun when a 1-2 hour job hits a dead end.
hacked89
Full Access Member
this is what it says on the pic you sent:
“This kit replaces the steel line between your fuel filter and injector pump.”
That would mean #1 goes to IP, then #2s in each end then #3s on that. Then just connect the hose.
Hopefully my service has been satisfactory. If you have 5 minutes when I hang up please stay on the line for a brief survey.
“This kit replaces the steel line between your fuel filter and injector pump.”
That would mean #1 goes to IP, then #2s in each end then #3s on that. Then just connect the hose.
Hopefully my service has been satisfactory. If you have 5 minutes when I hang up please stay on the line for a brief survey.
You must be registered for see images attach
hacked89
Full Access Member
I think you are miss-reading the crowd. We are all here to help and mostly have dry humor.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Small
Small clarification, don’t use thread tape. Liquid PTFE or similar.Ok besides the return line I'm not sure where you need the help so I'll try to cover it all.
The fittings that house the olives have to go. You seem to get that, hence asking about the return line. SO:
IP:
1. Pull those brass fittings for the olives off the filter housing and the IP.
2. Use thread tape for the push-lok barb onto the 90*, it's easier out of the truck.
3. Screw the ORB fitting into the IP. The oring seals beautifully as that's the correct fitting for that.
4. The 90* is a swivel fitting so do that piece last, that way your other connections are tight and you can point the hose whatever direction you like.
Filter housing:
1. Pull the brass fitting off the housing if you didn't do both on step 1 for the IP.
2. Add the 90* to the housing. Don't forget thread tape. (It's easier when short)
3. Tape again then add the push-lok.
4. Push one end of the hose onto each push-lok fitting, all the way. Don't use lubrication except a little soapy water for the best seal.
Your filter housing is earlier than mine. I never had the 2-way brass fitting like you do so I was able keep my return as it had it's own boss. If you have a spare port on the housing left over(can't see the bosses in the picture) then just use that.
In fact you could thread an 1/8 NPT barb fitting into the Schrader valve location to be your return until you figure out how you want to do it. None of us use the Schrader for anything anyways...
edit: Thank God for editing...my first drafts are brutal some days. I couldn't even get my numbers sequential
Brian VT
Full Access Member
The kit has no provision for the return line coming from #1 cylinder. Nor any instructions for the kit or what to do with that return line.
I guess I'm an IDIot. Sorry to bother you.
PopFizzz
Right witcha
So I cannot get out to the rig and a 2" pic is UNLESS ON MY PHONE
stuff it back together with the stock stuff?
Right witcha
So I cannot get out to the rig and a 2" pic is UNLESS ON MY PHONE
stuff it back together with the stock stuff?
hacked89
Full Access Member
For your knowledge if you delete the filter head return then any air intrusion will go to the IP inlet. Are you good with deleting your return or have questions?
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