Refurb

magusjinx

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I am in need of some advice ... I have an '86 F250 4x4 with a bit over 200,000 on it and am doing a bit of spiffing up ... Gonna pull the engine, clean under the hood, paint here and there, replace thermal blanket, buncha small stuff ... I figured since the motor is gonna be out why not replace a few bits and bobs while I have easy access ... On the list is new glow plugs,manual conversion for the glow plugs, electric fuel pump, new rubber in the fuel lines, new fuel return lines and injectors ...

Got everything figured out except what injectors to get ... Anyone have a makers preference and why?
 

towcat

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Got everything figured out except what injectors to get ... Anyone have a makers preference and why?

pm "typ4"/russ for injectors and seal kit.
why? for the same price you would pay for another set, you get a molested and pop balanced set of 8.

before you get carried away with pulling the motor, do a search on where others have already done.
they are not a walk in the park. regular automotive engine hoists get a workout doing these motors. fully dressed, they are 1100lbs.
 

THECACKLER

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Yeah, 1/2 Ton + of Heavy Metal... Anyways, I wouldn't put it back in without doing the cooler seals...
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I am in need of some advice ... I have an '86 F250 4x4 with a bit over 200,000 on it and am doing a bit of spiffing up ... Gonna pull the engine, clean under the hood, paint here and there, replace thermal blanket, buncha small stuff ... I figured since the motor is gonna be out why not replace a few bits and bobs while I have easy access ... On the list is new glow plugs,manual conversion for the glow plugs, electric fuel pump, new rubber in the fuel lines, new fuel return lines and injectors ...

Got everything figured out except what injectors to get ... Anyone have a makers preference and why?


My advice = put a two-inch body-lift on it before you loosen a bolt; the entire rest of your life will forever be easier. :thumbsup:

If you have a stout loader, fork-lift, or such, you can pull the engine without molesting the dog-house; all that needs come off is the hood and radiator.

If you remove the A/C compressor and lay it over on the left fender, you can pull the engine WITHOUT having to evacuate the A/C.

Remove the fan and clutch.

Remove the bell-housing.

The engine will come up and out with the clutch intact, but it makes things a whole lot easier if you go ahead and remove the clutch.

If you have a turbo, it and all plumbing will have to come off.


If I were to pull an IDI with intention of reinstalling it, there would not be a bolt in that engine that I did not see what was under it and I would do everything possible to make a fire-breathing dragon that would last a million miles out of it, before I even thought of putting it back under the hood. ;Sweet
 

87crewdually

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You can remove or put in the engine intact, even with Banks turbo and a/c. I had to remove the crank pulley and wiper motor but thats it. Front clip intact too as you can see here:
You must be registered for see images attach

I did use a forklift though for the reach. My engine hoist didn't want anything to do with it! A/C and powersteering never disconnected.
 

icanfixall

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If your taking it to Daves Farm we will find you... Whips... Chains and a new rope is all we will need.....:rotflmao That guy sure does show how well built these motors are... I actually think he does this to prove how stout the motors are and what they will take before they are killed...
 

gonecrazyi

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Ive always wanted to do something like Dave does to a vehicle. But when it comes time to get rid of one I find that Id rather have the money from parting it out than the enjoyment of beating it to crap.

When I took my first truck to the scrap yard it still ran great. I could bring myself to beat it into the ground before taking it in. Looking back I wish I would have kept it, drove so much nicer than my 250.
 

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