Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

well, i jsu tchecked it with my handy dandy iphone level. front shaft is at 5 degrees, pinion is at 3.5 degrees! so we are out by 1.5 degrees.
so when loaded I guess the pinion does point up a bit more setting the angles in plane..

so I either have to cut out a peice of my carrier bearing hanger to raise it a tough higher, so I get 1.5 degree shims for the axle.

 

[laserjock]

Gotta love technology.

 

[Greg5OH]

alright i ended up shortening the hanger approx 1" SHORTER than stock. i got 4 degrees on my rear end and 4 degrees on my front shaft, and the rubber is completely in plane and no stresses on it.
it DEFINITELY drives smoother on the freeway. Now I know the other thing to address are the shocks. I dont have this nasty cyclic vibration from the driveshaft anymore, but what I do feel is when going over a bunch of consecutive raised bumps in the road the rear end will jiggle about 5-6 times before settling down. I believe the hi speed damping is too stiff, coupled with the large sidewall of the tires, gives it this feeling. Like a leaf spring dump truck unloaded going over bumps. it just quivers.

I am wondering.hoping if either an adjustable shock (rancho 9000) or bilsteins in the rear would help out.

 

[Greg5OH]

had it doing 80 and up to 95 mph for.. NVH testing purposes.. runs smooth as ever! this is gps speed
12 lbs boost 600 egt, 192f coolant temp.

 

[Greg5OH]

got my D rings welded on last night. Amber clearance lights tied into blinkers will be going in between them.
Next on the list is englarge those dinky temporary 3/8 flatbed mouting holes to 5/8,
then finish the bumper and paint it, then cab lights, then...finally start putting interior back together.
If funds allow, start buying all new parts for AC. priced it out at 350 all from rock auto. Will probably buy that vacuum pump from HF to do my own charge.

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[Dieselcrawler]

Just FYI, if you tie those lights into the rear lights, they will come on with brake lights too

 

[Greg5OH]

I will be tying it into my park/turn signal wire.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Amber clearance lights tied into blinkers will be going in between them.

How do you plan on doing that? It will have to be tied into the front turn signals, cause if you use the rears the marker lamps will come on with the brakes and that's no good. Then there is the matter of what lamps to use - the best choice are true clearance/turn lamps, with dual filament 3157 bulbs or equivalent LED setup. For example side lamps for a semi trailer (the ones that hang under the middle of the trailer) would work well (seeing how that's exactly what they are for), but they are also quite thick, like 2" or so, which would make them stick out past your rub rails and thus make them easy to damage. If you have enough vertical height in the C-channel you could cut holes and use standard 6"x2" oval grommet-mount lamps, but that could weaken the rub rail some (fairly easy fix by adding some flat stock to turn it into essentially an I-beam in those locations).

Or you can do it the cheater way and use regular small 2-wire lights and wire them across the high and low wires of the front turn signals - when running lights are off they blink in phase with the front turn signals and when the running lights are on they blink out of phase (creates an alternating flash pattern). That's how side markers on '80-'86 F-series trucks are done from the factory, but there is a tricky area - if you use polarity-sensitive LEDs you will either not get running lights at all, or you'll have running lights and alternating flash pattern but they will not blink when the running lights are off (which IMHO wouldn't be too big of a deal cause they're not really bright enough for daylight use anyways).

 

[junk]

Looking good!

A/c is not hard to do. I actually use a HF vacuum pump that runs off the compressor. I've done lots of a/c work with that vacuum pump and a set of HF gages.

When you do it make sure to adjust the pressure switch on the accumulator/drier. It's probably set for R12 right now so it cylces off at like 25 PSI vs 21 PSI for R134. They do make an R134 specific switch but it's just a setting I'm sure. You adjust them using a screw that's between the terminals under the plug. I'm actually getting ready to buy a couple R134 switches for my trucks vs farting around trying to get the pressures right.

Also you need the red seatbelts? PM me your address and I'll get them shipped out. They are dusty from sitting around, but all but the drivers work fine. Drivers works OK, but is a little slow on the retract.

-Jeremy

 

[Greg5OH]

Im my wire harness (all aftermarket)There is a separate wire for brake lights, and separate for running/turn. (If i remember correctly). Worst Case i will tap into my front turn/signal lights. I do plan on using LED to minimize current draw.
Alternating would be cool, but im not too concerned with it. I dont mind if the blinking function works only with the running lights on.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

How many red lamps you got in the rear? If it's just one pair then you're running brake/turn combined setup. You may have the brakes-only wire, but you're not using it. If you use small 2-wire LEDs wired across your clearance and dedicated turn wires, alternating flash patter is what you will get whether you want it or not Keep in mind this is only as long as said dedicated turn wires are at some point spliced into the wires for turn lamps that have actual bulbs in them (LEDs won't do). Basically for the whole thing to work you need at least one incandescent dual-filament bulb per side, usually in the front corner lamps. Makes sense?

Edit: whereas dedicated clearance/turn lamps like those in the middle of big trailers are 3-wire hookup and have their own ground and thus don't need or even care for what other lamps you may have in the circuit. But like I said, they are quite large.

 

[junk]

Is this the rear seatbelt you need? I believe it should be the left rear. The center plastics are in rough shape.

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[Greg5OH]

woah, that looks nothing like that I have/need.
Mine just looks like a regular style belt, jhas the re tractor mechanism, long belt comes out of it, clips into the seat latch.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Pretty sure this is the belt for the middle position of the rear seat...

 

[Greg5OH]

hm strange, mine doesnt look like that..more just like a regular belt with no black plastic around it