Rattle and vibration - not typical - at idle and around 1350 rpm

[davlun]

Ok, I will look for that clip.... perhaps i can just slide a piece of rubber in it and call it done? Will take a look when I get home.

Thanks!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Piece of rubber, dab of silicone caulk, whatever you can think of to get it to stay put! IIRC the clip live around the steel nipple that the vacuum hose attaches to.

 

[davlun]

It was noted earlier that the alternator belt likes to flap around commonly. Are there any particular belts that work better for this application or is it just a matter of getting the tension just right? Figure if going to be taking things apart for the vacuum pump, that it would be a good time for the belt too. Wouldnt it be great if there was a serpentine belt kit for these....

 

[LCAM-01XA]

There is a serpentine belt setup, factory-issue too, the late-'92 and newer trucks got it. You'll need to strip the front of your engine down to engine block and water pump tho, as you'll be swapping all the brackets. You'll need new A/C compressor and alternator also, PS pump can be reused but you'll be switching out from your current bracket to the new one. Vacuum pump will need different pulley, and those have been known to bend when you try switching them, so may be better off going with electric pump off a Powerstroke.

As far as V-belts go, I hope you do realize that the alternator is the 1st belt to go in and the last to go out... You'll need to remove all other belts to get to it. Gates Green Stripe belts hold up very well, NAPA XL as well (they have different name now IIRC, you'll know them by the price, it's rather impressive for a V-belt).

But the belt slap will be there no matter what belt you choose, the quality of the belt only shows in how long it takes for the belt to start cracking. To reduce belt slap many have installed Idler pulleys, IIRC if you use the timing belt tensioner pulley for a Toyota Camry it's small enough that you can just use a longer bolt instead of one of the two that hold the alt bracketry to the water pump... Plenty of threads on that exact topic, many different ways to accomplish the same thing.

 

[davlun]

Thanks for the info on all counts. I can't believe the wealth of information the people on this forum have. I had to laugh a little bit when you talked about the order of the belts as I did not know, I am trying to redevelop and add to long lost skills over the years. But with every comment and question I learn, thanks for that. I like the idea of the idler, seems like something that is a great idea and well within what I can do. I will research that here on the forum. I love the idea of the serpentine belt, but that seems like more than I with to tackle (for me).

Thanks again to all! Will report back on Saturday...

 

[snicklas]

Interesting on the kohler engines. I have a k662 (I think) - never used really as it is attached to a generator that was purchased at surplus in the 60's and stored away. Never had gasoline in it until I purchased it and dont believe it has ever had an electrical load as there were no receptacles ore wiring installed in the box for that purpose on the genie. I had heard some tractors had kohlers in them but never had confirmation until now.

Thanks for the help, thought you might find that interesting...

All IH Built Cub Cadets from 1961 through 1981 (When Cub Cadet was sold to MTD) had a single cylinder K-Series Kohler Engine. They used a 7 and later 8, 10, 12, 14 and 16 hp engines. The only exception to this was on the 82 Series Red Cub Cadets built from July 1980 thru June 1981. The 482, 582 and 582 Special all had Briggs engines, the 682 and 782 had a Kohler KT-17 Twin Cylinder engine and the 982 had a 19.9 hp Onan twin. After July 1981, most Cubs still have Kohlers, but they also use Briggs, and Kubota Gas and Diesel engines. IH Never made a Diesel Cub, that happened after the MTD buyout... There have even been some with Kawasaki engines. All but 2 we have are single cylinder Kohlers, but we do have 2 782's.......

Also most John Deere and Wheel Horse garden tractors used Kohler engines back in the day.

 

[snicklas]

...so may be better off going with electric pump off a Powerstroke...

Just remember, this is only if you have Hydroboost brakes. The Powerstroke electric pump is not designed for the demands of vacuum brakes. On the PSD,s it only runs the HVAC and the ESOF Hubs (If equipped). Stick with a mechanical pump if you are running vacuum brakes

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Just remember, this is only if you have Hydroboost brakes. The Powerstroke electric pump is not designed for the demands of vacuum brakes. On the PSD,s it only runs the HVAC and the ESOF Hubs (If equipped). Stick with a mechanical pump if you are running vacuum brakes

Ah yes, there is that. Well you can guess what we're running, Sagi-pumped even The way it should have come from the factory IMHO.

 

[davlun]

OK. Back. I did not see anything and was still avoiding the trans inspection port. Didnt see any signs of exhaust links etc. Was looking on craigslist and found a diesel mech just about 12 blocks away, works at home on weekends. Unlike the others I have had look at the truck, he heard the noise right away, crawled under truck and was back about a couple of minutes later. Said it was my torque converter and that it would continue to get worse. Said it was common issue. He also said, he does not work on transmissions...

Is there a concrete way to test the torque converter that doesnt involve me relying on a shop to do something that I have no idea on? I have noticed that it is taking longer to engage the gears of the trans when it has been sitting for a while that it used to. On the surface, seems to corroborate the issue... thoughts?

 

[BDCarrillo]

Torque converter slippage will only affect 3rd and 4th, doubtful that your slow reverse engagement issue is related. The slow engagement can be caused mainly by clutch pack wear/piston seal leaks, poor pressure output at the pump, or servo wear.

Cracked flexplates aren't too uncommon... But the best way to see them would be with the tranny/converter out.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Why are you so reluctaint to check the 4 nuts on the trans flex plate, it's a simple thing to do. 7/16" wrench or socket for the 4 screws that hold the dust cover on, 1/2" or 13mm socket for the 4 nuts on the flexplate, a large screw driver to pry the flexplate gear over to get to the unseen nuts. If the nuts are loose that's where your rattle is at. Try to move the flexplate front to rear, if it move just a tiny bit, it could be cracked, then the trans has to be removed to replace it. Flexplates are around $150. If the flexplate is cracked, it will soon leave you stranded, the whole center of it bolted to the crank will shear off. If the nuts are loose and not soon tightened, it's possible that the torque converter bolt(s) can tear loose, that creates a hole in the TC, then the TC has to be replaced. $400 and up just for the TC, probably $600 to $800 labor. If you don't want to do it, take it to any garage that has a 9000 lb lift and have them do it, it's only a 20 minute job.

 

[davlun]

I could give you lots of reasons, but it all boils down to a belief that transmission work seems beyond my abilities, something that I would inevitably miss something important that any experienced person would spot right off. I will pull her in the back again and give it a go, have today off from work.

Thanks for the advice all.

 

[OLDBULL8]

It's NOT transmission repair/work at all, it's only a matter of checking 4 nuts to see if there tight. Don't be paranoid.

 

[davlun]

So, after a long exercise, the bolts are off and the cover is off. The bolts were on very tight and were rounded over, 3/8's was too big, 9 mm was too small or the rounding over made things off. The nut on the bolt on the flex plate was 14mm.

Had to get one of those special sockets to back them out. They seem tight, not sure how much to lean on them. Which brings me to my question. I cranked the engine ever so slightly to get a new one into view (marked the ones I had tested with a yellow crayon). The last one, when I went to see if it was tight, moved the whole torque converter several inches. The other 3 did not.

I remember reading (I think) that you cant spin the engine the wrong way or things get out of whack. I had already started to spin it back when I remembered this. I was laying with my feet towards the back of the truck, on the driver side. The torgue converter spun towards the passenger side. If my dyslexia is not getting in the way, that would be clockwise if you are facing the front of the transmission from the engine bay.

By moving it back, or forward, did I mess anything up?

Here is a picture of the inside:

EDIT: Thanks for the help. I realize now it is pretty straight forward, all of this is way outside my comfort zone, but necessity is the mother of invention here.

 

[OLDBULL8]

If you've turned the engine tightening the nut, there plenty tight. Yes I've turned the engine plenty of times checking those nuts. Didn't want to suggest that for fear you might twist the bolt off. All is good then, put the cover back on.