question regarding multi weight motor oil

mexicanjoe

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Ok guys heres a question: If you buy 15w40 motor oil and add it to your engine, at what temperature does the oil "flash over" from 15w to 40w? and is the process slow or sudden? The reason I ask is I know my engine has tons of miles so why not just go with straight 40 weight motor oil and 15w-40 in the winter?? Anyone with info that would be willing to share???..
 

hce

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At 0 degrees 15w40 will flow like a straight 15 weight oil at 0f degrees. At 212f 15w40 will flow like straight 40w oil at 212f. So straight weight 40 oil should help where out the engine faster when cold by taking longer for the oil to be pumped where needed.
 

Macrobb

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At 0 degrees 15w40 will flow like a straight 15 weight oil at 0f degrees. At 212f 15w40 will flow like straight 40w oil at 212f. So straight weight 40 oil should help where out the engine faster when cold by taking longer for the oil to be pumped where needed.
Exactly.
Now, a couple other interesting facts: To make a 15W40 oil, they use a 15 weight oil, and then add compounds to it which "thicken up" when hot... effectively.
This means two things:
1. As the original oil is a 15 weight oil, the "film strength" is that of the thinner oil, which is lower than that of a thicker oil. (*NOTE)
2. The thickening compounds do "wear out", especially if the oil is sheared constantly - not so much of a problem in an IDI, but in a 7.3 PSD, where it's pumped at high pressures, it does end up thinner over time.

Now, do these really affect you? No, but it's interesting. 15W40 seems to be just fine for an IDI, even worked as hard as possible. Bearing wear due to use is not a big problem; you typically find bearing issues when someone, oh, lets the engine run dry of oil... or just plain doesn't change it at 5K(or less) and it gets all sludged up.

(*Note: Two interesting bits here - Because of this, a 5W40 has a lower film strength than a 15W40 oil does. However... Most engines have plenty of "reserve film strength", in that they aren't pushing the oil to it's limit. In something like a top fuel dragster, yeah, those differences probably matter. In an IDI? No; there's plenty of bearing surface area to handle the load).
 

nelstomlinson

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HCE and Macrobb said it well. The multi-vis oils just don't change their viscosity with temperature as much as the single vis oils do.

I use 5W-40 in the winter, and 15W-40 in the summer. I need that thinner oil to let the engine crank fast at -40.
 

chris142

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Exactly.
Now, a couple other interesting facts: To make a 15W40 oil, they use a 15 weight oil, and then add compounds to it which "thicken up" when hot... effectively.
This means two things:
1. As the original oil is a 15 weight oil, the "film strength" is that of the thinner oil, which is lower than that of a thicker oil. (*NOTE)
2. The thickening compounds do "wear out", especially if the oil is sheared constantly - not so much of a problem in an IDI, but in a 7.3 PSD, where it's pumped at high pressures, it does end up thinner over time.

Now, do these really affect you? No, but it's interesting. 15W40 seems to be just fine for an IDI, even worked as hard as possible. Bearing wear due to use is not a big problem; you typically find bearing issues when someone, oh, lets the engine run dry of oil... or just plain doesn't change it at 5K(or less) and it gets all sludged up.

(*Note: Two interesting bits here - Because of this, a 5W40 has a lower film strength than a 15W40 oil does. However... Most engines have plenty of "reserve film strength", in that they aren't pushing the oil to it's limit. In something like a top fuel dragster, yeah, those differences probably matter. In an IDI? No; there's plenty of bearing surface area to handle the load).
many years ago GM did oil testing. Back when only straight weights were available and I assume gassers. Anyway.They ran thinner and thinner oils to see where the failure was. They were unable to kill the main and rod bearings in the test engines even with the thinnest oils.
 

vlrd56

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chris142

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I feel that using an oil with that old rating would be back peddling. I would want a CJ or CJ4 or better myself.
 

nelstomlinson

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We probably couldn't find an oil that didn't meet the CJ spec. We really don't want to get much more modern that, either, since the newer specs are not always backwards compatible.
 

chillman88

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Ah, SAE30 CE or better. I probably should use a straight viscosity oil for summers, if only I could find one.

15w-40 will provide better wear protection in the summer as well compared to SAE 30. It will flow better on startup than SAE 30 would.
 

aggiediesel01

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We probably couldn't find an oil that didn't meet the CJ spec. We really don't want to get much more modern that, either, since the newer specs are not always backwards compatible.

As Wes has mentioned on here before the oil sold by PDD is custom blended to the older specs. The IDI platform probably isn't as sensitive to the "problems" with the newer additives like the 7.3 PS and 6.0 are with the HEUI injection but if you watch his video he explains the chemistry he is having blended to the oil and why he thinks it's important. And if you are a synthetic oil buyer already the price point is pretty decent.


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