Punch a hole in the baffle or will it be ok?

Donsbad89

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Well guys, I installed my new Banks Sidewinder kit and love it. The only issue I have is after installing the kit I was reading online that I should punch holes in the baffle under the oil drain. I already have the kit installed and no where in the instructions did it say to punch a hole in the baffle. Will it be ok? Or do I need to pull this sucker back apart!?!? Truck seems to be running great and no leaks or anything.:dunno
 

flareside_thun

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You won't find that step in the instructions. It's something the collective here has figured out that helps with oil draining.
 

hesutton

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I didn't do it either with my 1st Banks install on my '86 F250 and wish I had. It was fine at first, but overtime, the valley pan started to and continues to leak oil. Drilled the pan on my '86 crew cab before the Banks install and it didn't leak at all. It makes a huge difference in the volume and speed at which oil can drain form the pan.

I've pulled the 6.9 from the crew cab as it blew a headgasket, but the valley pan was solid and leak free. I will drill the new valley pan on reassembly.

Heath
 

icanfixall

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Many years ago Banks installed my turbo. Way back then I felt I could not do the job myself. This was onmy 89 in about 97 or there abouts. I put well over 100,000 miles on the engine after the turbo install.... I never had any oil issues. I don't think Banks factory installers punched holes in my valley pan...Some will state that the valley pans were changed at one point so the oil drain back was quicker. I can't confirm this one way or the other. I do feel punching holes in the valley pan internal baffels is a good thing. It allows the turbo oil drain back a faster path to the oil pump suction. An ice pick works great for this. It will not leave any metal chips behind like drilling can. Any drill shaving left behind will be collected by the oil pump screen. I don't feel any chips that get past the screen will damage the oil pump but.... I would not want any metal getting into my oil pump. If you do drill out the baffels a small magnet can be used between the baffles to get out any possible left over drill shavings.
 

snaponprofile

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I punched about 3 holes the width of a long screwdriver, I just took a flat head and ground it into a point and made 3 holes. Seems to drain fine, although the valley isn't exactly clear.:D
 
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At first I didn't punch holes, leaked like crazy, almost like it couldn't drain fast enough,and was backing up, punched the holes, no problems since
 

argve

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Never did on the enterprise and never had a problem. I watched how far I shoved the drain tube in the vally though so that I gave ample room for the oil to exit the tube. Dont know if that was the secret or not. But never had problems.
 

OLDBULL8

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There are two types of valley pans that I know of. The one Heath shows is the short length baffle that has a slot on each end very close to the top, it can and will fill up with oil quickly from the turbo, the other pan has a narrow baffle full length of the pan with holes along the baffle sides. It's better to punch holes in either one just to be safe.
 

snaponprofile

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When you reseal that drain tube, be sure to use copper or black RTV and spray it down with brake parts cleaner so its dry, if not, it will leak. Also, I would recommend just pulling the cold side of the turbo. Much less time and the turbo studs strip very easy.
 

Donsbad89

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I think I'm just going to roll with it. I'd really prefer not to pull it back apart.
 

OLDBULL8

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If you would just put your truck in your Sig. it would be helpfull, especially the year and engine. No guesstimate what we are dealing with.
 

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