Project Queso

[krogo]

Whats the upside to blocking off the wastegate? Won't that over speed the turbo at higher rpms?

The one absolute upside is no leaking wastegate valve. "Wiring" the wastegates closed, I read, is very common on these factory turbos. @Thewespaul helped me with turbine and compressor sizing, so I defer to his wealth of knowledge and experience.

tell me about those brass nuts on the turbo to up-pipe flange...is that just for serviceability later on?

Exactly right. I've used copper washers and brass nuts on exhaust bits for years and I've never regretted it.

P2 tstat job and found some tricks to make it easier

The easiest way I've found is to drop the accessory belt, unbolt the power steering pump and slide it out of the way to get access. Pray furiously to the Torx Gods that the heads of those stat bolts dont strip. I've made it a habit to just change the whole housing, it's way easier than trying to get that stat aligned properly, blind, at an angle.

How did you know it was the oil pickup in the S60?

There are three main failure modes related oil pickup in the P2 5 & 6 cylinder engines. The first is the o-ring that seals the pickup. Second are the o-rings that seal the oil passages between the oil pan and block for the filter and cooler routes. Third is sludge from poor maintenance packing the pickup screen.

I got lucky really. The Oil pressure warnings/light is one of those things you tell your kids about but in the back of your head you know a grenade'd car is going to get rollbacked into the driveway one day. I am truly proud of my girl. She noticed the warning, and got it shut down as soon as she safely could.
When we got it home I fired it up for a sec just to witness for myself. If it's dicked, you can't **** it anymore, Am-I-right? No oil pressure warning, but loud engine speed dependent hydraulic whine, not related to power steering or transmission, it had to be Oil Pump cavitation. I dropped the pan and sure enough the screen was plugged completely and sucked tight against the tube neck.

Keep in mind, this car has 198K miles and we purchased it used 6 years ago with 125K miles. The poor thing just wasn't maintained at all when we got it, but the price was absolutely right. I knew that one day, all the sludge in that engine would come back to haunt me. It did! I've used nothing but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum since we bought it and I've watched the sludge in the overhead slowly fade over the years. I now know where it all went. The crankcase looks nice and clean, so hopefully we bought ourselves many more happy miles. I put a new oil pan on since all the baffles in the old one would have been impossible to completely clean.

It's been back together for a couple weeks and has made it 2hrs back up to college with the girlie. No unusual noises, ticking or any signs or permanent damage. Time will tell.

as 30 would have been WARM.....

I was, in fact, wearing shorts that next week!

Hope you are feeling better after your surgery...

Thank you!

I have a guess who you might work for....

Three guesses and the first two don't count! I'm the black sheep around here. "WhaDYa MeAN U AiNT GoT a ******"G"s" Ughhhhh. WHY do so many people put a G in Cummins!!!

 

[1mouse3]

There are three main failure modes related oil pickup in the P2 5 & 6 cylinder engines. The first is the o-ring that seals the pickup. Second are the o-rings that seal the oil passages between the oil pan and block for the filter and cooler routes. Third is sludge from poor maintenance packing the pickup screen.

I got lucky really. The Oil pressure warnings/light is one of those things you tell your kids about but in the back of your head you know a grenade'd car is going to get rollbacked into the driveway one day. I am truly proud of my girl. She noticed the warning, and got it shut down as soon as she safely could.
When we got it home I fired it up for a sec just to witness for myself. If it's dicked, you can't **** it anymore, Am-I-right? No oil pressure warning, but loud engine speed dependent hydraulic whine, not related to power steering or transmission, it had to be Oil Pump cavitation. I dropped the pan and sure enough the screen was plugged completely and sucked tight against the tube neck.

Keep in mind, this car has 198K miles and we purchased it used 6 years ago with 125K miles. The poor thing just wasn't maintained at all when we got it, but the price was absolutely right. I knew that one day, all the sludge in that engine would come back to haunt me. It did! I've used nothing but Pennzoil Ultra Platinum since we bought it and I've watched the sludge in the overhead slowly fade over the years. I now know where it all went. The crankcase looks nice and clean, so hopefully we bought ourselves many more happy miles. I put a new oil pan on since all the baffles in the old one would have been impossible to completely clean.

It's been back together for a couple weeks and has made it 2hrs back up to college with the girlie. No unusual noises, ticking or any signs or permanent damage. Time will tell.

If this is a turbo car it make sense, vw 1.8t dose the same but also only holds 4qt oem. The passat is my moms with that engine, pulled the pan to clean the pickup shortly after she got it and have been using a filter that increases capacity to just over 4.5qt. Turbos cook oil and everything possible should be done to minimize this, us spec oil is not up to the task and there is euro spec XW-40 that is better off. That euro oil has a higher high-temperature/high-shear (HTHS) spec rate than the us oil and will hold up slightly better, but you want to change that oil before it changes color or thins. Even a high revving bmw can destroy this us spec oil, I have it gear to be ran in the 2500-4500 rpm power band where 80mph is ~4000 rpm. Having that buzz saw running 6hrs weekly on the highway dose no good for the oil, its too thin after a few runs and a qt+ low on 7 qt. I tried the castrol 10w-40 high mile oil with lucas treatment but only partially helped, found lucas 10w-40 to last the best in that. As for the vw, it gets mobile one 0w-40 or castrol 5w-40 oil since mostly what I find in stock.

 

[krogo]

If this is a turbo car it make sense, vw 1.8t dose the same but also only holds 4qt oem. The passat is my moms with that engine, pulled the pan to clean the pickup shortly after she got it and have been using a filter that increases capacity to just over 4.5qt. Turbos cook oil and everything possible should be done to minimize this, us spec oil is not up to the task and there is euro spec XW-40 that is better off. That euro oil has a higher high-temperature/high-shear (HTHS) spec rate than the us oil and will hold up slightly better, but you want to change that oil before it changes color or thins. Even a high revving bmw can destroy this us spec oil, I have it gear to be ran in the 2500-4500 rpm power band where 80mph is ~4000 rpm. Having that buzz saw running 6hrs weekly on the highway dose no good for the oil, its too thin after a few runs and a qt+ low on 7 qt. I tried the castrol 10w-40 high mile oil with lucas treatment but only partially helped, found lucas 10w-40 to last the best in that. As for the vw, it gets mobile one 0w-40 or castrol 5w-40 oil since mostly what I find in stock.

I completely made the switch to Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in everything but the diesels around the place. We currently have two p2 Volvo's, both with the 2.5 5 cylinder, one turbo, one NA. When I made the switch 6 years ago I sent samples off for analysis and honestly, I couldn't tell the difference in the results of the samples and they both came back perfect at 5k miles.
Prior to the PUP, I ran Rotella T6 in them. Right around 3K miles the overheads would start to get a bit clattery, not alarming, just a little extra noisy.
To make some folks heads spin..... I use Rotella T6 in my..... Motorcycles.... GASP
Suzuki makes it really nice to know when it's time for an oil change. When the 2 to neutral downshift skips neutral and goes 2 to 1 instead, it's time!

Oil and oil related topics are like ********. Everyone likes their own and everyone else's stinks.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

To make some folks heads spin..... I use Rotella T6 in my..... Motorcycles.... GASP

Maybe, but I know that a lot of people do this. Of course there's debate on doing this in the motorcycle world as well.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Diesel oil in motorcycles makes sense: the shearing action in the transmission and anti-foaming make perfect sense when you consider what wears out oil in the powerstrokes: the hydraulic cycles of the injectors and HPOP break down the oil in similar ways. Diesel oil works very well in motorcycles, but it all breaks down after some miles and poor shifting is the resultant.

BTW: that’s not my opinion, but the opinion of another oil ******** who knows more than me due to testing lubricants for a living

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Yep. The Rotella T6 (why do I think of the Terminator movies every time I see that name?) is supposed to give you smoother shifting than using dino oil.

 

[krogo]

why do I think of the Terminator movies every time I see that name?

Dun Dun Dit Da Dun Dun....

 

[krogo]

She's in.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[krogo]

Update.

I've been working on getting the '08 seats fitted, this coupled with recovery from a surprise follow-up surgery has kept any "major" progress from occurring.
Hoping to get back at it full swing soon.

In my recovery "downtime", I've integrated seat heat control into the Arduino that runs the Vacuum pump and Fuel transfer function.

I've also made the executive decision to go electric fans. I will be using four 10" Spal brushless units. Before anyone decides it's "Flame on" time, I'd be happy to expand on the decision for those who are curious. To that end, I have built a seperate arduino to control fan speed. Thus far I have Radiator return temp and AC operation integrated into the control loop. I will be adding charge air temp soon.

 

[Diesilee]

Would be great to hear your "expansion" on the decision.






i've

 

[krogo]

Would be great to hear your "expansion" on the decision.

There are several factors that drove me to this decision. Keep in mind, this project is part science experiment, part "build the most reliable truck I can." Sometimes these concepts don't play well together, but I learn nothing if I don't try.

1: Regulating coolant temps. The stock fan and clutch exhibit far too much gain, meaning, by the time the clutch locks up, coolant temp is already quite high, and when the clutch unlocks, coolant temps have dropped dramatically. This has been my experience with several different clutches from several different vendors. While the temperature oscillations are not necessarily a "bad" thing they run counter to the end goal of my project. Maintaining a constant, relatively high, coolant temperature, I can "eek" out a tad more efficiency and avoid any thermal fatigue of components (if that's even an issue.) Will I even be able to tell if efficiency improved? Who knows... But I like the idea.

2: Reliability. I cannot find a reliable vendor for "Good" fan clutches. The idea of swapping a fan clutch in a Autozone parking lot on a 100° F day, on a hot engine, in the south does not fill me with pleasure. I have experience with the Spal Brushless fans and they are remarkably reliable. The 24V units (very different fan geometry, but same technology) are used in many many commercial mission critical applications. I can also theoretically (if my math is correct) lose two fans and keep on moving, although at reduced speed/power.

3: The fan clutch always locks when you need the power most. If I can shift the load from demand to proportional the effect will be far less noticeable. This is simply moving the load from the Fan to the alternator/batteries, but the transition will be smooth.

4: Air conditioning performance. I am a weak man when it comes to humidity. The low speed AC performance with the stock fan and clutch is completely underwhelming. Nothing like getting stuck in traffic on a hot day and not having enough air over the condenser to dump any meaningful amount of heat. Those from the Corn belt understand the term "Corn Sweats", it's real and it sucks.

I know I'm missing something that I felt was important, but I'm still working on my Coffee after a morning meeting... Ughh.

Edit: Still haven't remembered what the other "thing" is, but I did remember that I am going to protect for six fans in case four doesn't cut it.

 

[sjwelds]

But will it stay cool?

 

[krogo]

But will it stay cool?

Ideally.... It will stay warm, but just the right amount of warm..

 

[krogo]

Update,

Received my "Test" fan. My controller seems to work as expected.
Fan starts to ramp at 180F and is full speed by 215F. I'm always impressed by these Spal Brushless units, boy golly do they move some air.
The temperature will be measured in the bottom tank of the radiator (return water.)

I'm still working on the code for the adaptive AC high side pressure functionality. Currently I have it set to ('Dumb mode') turn the fans on to 50% when the Compressor Clutch is energized (if active fan speed is less than 50%, otherwise no action is taken.)

I'm still working on the 'Auxiliary' trigger input which will take inputs from Transmission fluid temperature, Charge Air Temperature and EGT, all of which will be 'dumb mode' (on/off) modifiers to active fan speed.

Hopefully going to pickup the Aluminum for the shroud this week, and place the order for the remaining fans.

 

[Rusgo]

Awesome engine build

You think cerakote is durable to corrosion over time and general whoops impacts wrenching?

Never worked with the stuff but going through that same process soon

Guessing you didn't bake the block in $50 oven?

Curious of your impressions on combustion characteristics when all together!