Project: Guffey

[Guffey6]

Alright, here we go. I have a 1988 f250 zf5 4x4. I've scored a parts truck and I'm starting an engine rebuild. Here's the truck:

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My plans so far are to re-ring and a full gasket set on the spare engine.

 

[Guffey6]

I tore into it today.

Before:

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This thing is very heavy! But it's about to get much lighter.

 

[Guffey6]

To my surprise the heads and pistons looked pretty darn good, considering I never heard the truck run for myself. ( my dumb mistake, I got too carried away after I bought it to work the kinks out, and just pulled the engine and threw it on a stand.) But other than 25+ years of engine gunk and oil it looks good!

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I even placed a straight edge on the heads, looks to be all squared, so no problems there. All valves seem to be fine too, I will still do a lap job for good measure.

I removed the pistons, and again the cylinder walls are super smooth, there's hardly even a ridge. And super tight, all rings looked good too. Should I still do a ring job??

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[Guffey6]

Harmonic balancer was a pain, but after breaking my puller and getting a new one I finally got it done,

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Still scrubbing and scraping and cleaning and repeat!

My ultimate goal is a full rebuild, with head STUDS, re paint, still tossing up color ideas (probably IH grey with black bolt on parts) a new, bigger pump, and a turbo of some sort. What about the 910 springs, someone tell me more about these? And new injectors. And anything else that I run into that needs to be replaced.
My goal is a realistic one, I just want more power than stock, this thing kills me on steep grades.
Your input will be very welcome!

 

[Guffey6]

When I get new rings, considering I'm planning a turbo build, do I just order regular rings? Or is there a special type I need to get?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Regular rings will do the trick. People have been putting aftermarket turbos on stock, non turbo engines for years. As for the Comp 910 springs, they are a must for a bigger cam, but since you didn't mention that, just buy new stock springs to be sure. Since you're completely down to just a block, I'd recommend new cam bearings while you're at it. With little to no ring ridge, just have your cylinders honed. It's required for the new rings to seat in.

 

[Guffey6]

Thank you for the reply. A bigger cam as in a typ4 or r&d stage 1 cam?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Exactly.

 

[Guffey6]

Back at it again today... still cleaning! It's getting much much better! Pressure washing, purple power, and a wire brush. Lots of elbow grease.

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[Guffey6]

Started cleaning heads as well, but ran out of time. I have some pitting on one of my cylinders on the head. Can I scotch brite it off, or does this call for a resurface job?

 

[Guffey6]

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I still have lots of cleaning left on these heads. I'm going to make a spring compressor tomorrow, so I can check my valves and guides.

 

[Guffey6]

The pitting wasn't very bad at all after a good cleaning. The exhaust valve seals were shot! Like some were missing and the ones that weren't just kinda turned to powder. the valves are nasty and have carbon build up on the back side, but the valve seats look great! Still shiny. I finished , as good as it's getting before paint prep, all of the bolt on stuff.

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Here's a pic of my spring compressor. 28" long 1/4" steel. Worked great.

 

[Guffey6]

Since you're completely down to just a block, I'd recommend new cam bearings

Is this something i can do, or will I need to take it to a pro?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You need a cam bearing installation tool. They are expensive, but you may be able to rent one. The one at the front is the hardest to do. If you mess it up, you have to buy a new set of cam bearings since you can't buy just one.

 

[Guffey6]

I see. I'm actually on vacation right now, but when I get back home I'll have a few days before heading back to work. I will look at the wear on the bearings and the cam. I was reading that if there's any "blueing" on the surfaces they need to be replaced for sure.