Problems With Fuel Shut Off Solenoid

[Blind Driver2]

Driving down the road and the engine died. I lost power to the shut off solenoid. Used the wire from my stereo and got me 1/2 mile down the street and blew the fuse. Replaced fuse and it got me another 1/2 mile to my shop and had to push it in the rest of the way.

Apparently there is a short in the shut off solenoid. After the second attempt, there was the smell of heat and bubbling from the top of the solenoid.

Can I simply replace the solenoid with the one from my old pump or am I looking at something much more complicated?

 

[Blind Driver2]

Nevermind

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...l-shut-off-solenoid-replacement-Stanadyne-DB2

 

[79jasper]

I know you already figured it out. But for anyone else who may have the same problem, another common spot is the harness connection on the fender liner.
On mine someone had probed it, so it corroded completely into.

 

[Blind Driver2]

I still need to find the fuse.

I did learn the fuel pump solenoid and the glow plugs are on the same circuit.

 

[79jasper]

I thought I had a fuse diagram but now I can't find it.
On mine the harness had a few hacks. There was a red/green wire that went nowhere and it was bare. I think it connected to the fss or maybe the cold advance and high idle. Maybe the bare end would've went to the glowplug controller.
But anyways it blew the fuse to the fss when it grounded driving.
Now if only I could remember what fuse it was.

 

[Blind Driver2]

It is a big 30 amp fuse under the hood.

Now my tach doesn't work. I don't see how all this is related. It's always worked and I think it was working during the first blown fuse. Damn.
Truck will go in reverse, but I don't have enough line pressure to go very fast forward.

 

[79jasper]

Could you have bumped the sensor on the side of the pump?
And I know the tach sensor plays a big role for the e40d. Maybe try cleaning the wire connectors.
I think there's also a fuse for the tcm, IIRC the same fuse for the domelight.

 

[jaluhn83]

I've got some diagrams but woln't be able to get them for a few days.

The Haynes ford truck manual does have decent wiring diagrams and they do cover the diesels even though the actually manual doesn't

It's not hard to change the top of the injection pump, (including the solenoid) but it's very easy to screw up and make the engine run away. There's 4 screws and it just lifts off. There's a seal that fits into a groove on top of the pump housing and you can probably reuse it. However, when you put it on be very very careful. You'll notice a large lever sticking down from the cover and a linkage within the top of the housing. This lever fits into a notch in the linkage and in spring loaded so if you just put the cover back on it will just bind up the linkage. Said linkage is the fuel metering linkage, and you've now just stuck it in the max fuel position. So when you start the engine it will immediately run away and the shutoff will not work.

The proper was to install the cover it to put it down onto the body about 1/4" to the rear of the pump and then carefully slide it forward until you feel the lever slip into place. You should be able to feel the spring compress a bit as you move to cover forward. You will need to be careful to not mess up the seal doing this.

Also, when starting after *any* injection system work it is wise to have a board or something available to choke off the air if needed. If the engine does run away for whatever reason, that's the only sure way to shut it down, or at least hold the rpm down to a reasonable level until you can fix the original problem.

 

[Blind Driver2]

Od light stays on and is dim. Might be time to start a new thread, Might be the TECA relay.

 

[79jasper]

Can you try pulling the codes?