Prechamber coaking due to WMO
- Thread starter Agnem
- Start date
FordGuy100
Registered User
Those look pretty dang clean. If you can, try to pull all of them, and see if they are all like that. Are you warming the oil in the tank? Are are you warming it at all? This is pretty re-assuring, cause they look dang good
BigRigTech
Diesel junky
Those injectors look pretty clean to me. I think the ATF is the key, lots of detergents in it.
FordGuy100
Registered User
Regular idling wont have enough EGT's to burn the fuel completly, so carbon can build up. This is why in the north, Canada, ect...during the winter, compaines have to high idle there trucks. Because they cant shut the trucks off, cause it would be to cold, and they would freeze up, and if they just let them idle, the cylinder temps wouldnt be hot enough to burn all the fuel completly, which results in wet stacking (I think it when the excess fuel washes the oil off the clyinder walls, not a good thing). So they high idle them, so the cylinder temps are higher, and all the fuel will burn. I'm guessing it would be the same with WMO, not high enough cylinder temps would result in carbon buildup.
nightrunner84
Full Access Member
no, I don't heat it. Just start on regular diesel, and shut down on it.
tractorman86
Registered User
they do look good they must just be worn or the pump is weak.
nightrunner84
Full Access Member
I just thought about something. I bought the truck from my grandpa who used it to tour the country with a 5th wheel. When he was out west, he had running issues and took it to a shop. The shop turned the pump down for the elevation he was at. I've always attributed its high fuel mileage to this change. Maybe thats why they're so clean. The other guys at the shop all looked at me when I let out a YESSSS!!! when I pulled the first injector.
You can even see that the tip of the glow plug is almost white in the 3 cylinders that I checked, like the pocelean of a good running spark plug. what do ya think Mel? I've thought about the coaking of your truck, maybe its caused by the moospump?
You can even see that the tip of the glow plug is almost white in the 3 cylinders that I checked, like the pocelean of a good running spark plug. what do ya think Mel? I've thought about the coaking of your truck, maybe its caused by the moospump?
Ironman03R
Full Access Member
I've noticed ash on the GP tips but havent pulled any injectors yet. I need to replace a couple O-rings so when I do I'll pull the injectors and see. I've been running 100%, or close to it, for a few months and just pulled the 5'ver to the lake and back on 100%. Will try to check this week.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Hmm I think if I had a choice I'd burn ATF or hydraulic oil or 2 stroke if possible. That being said I don't think the low fuel delivery is protecting your truck. I strongly doubt those of us that use our trucks as a daily driver see hot enough temps to completely burn straight motor oil or unheated veggie oil. Personally I'm seeing EGTs around 300-400 just tooling round suburbia. Now if the truck is a commuter and you're at freeway speeds almost all the time or its a work truck thats used hard as IH intended, then you have higher cylinder and EGTs no or less coking. Back when I was big into 2 strokes people were big into "decarbing" their outboard engines for the same reason. You'd pull a mix of 2 stroke oil, seafoam and g@s into the carb and choke it till it flooded out, then you;d let it soak about 15-30 minutes and crank it up and run that sucker WIDE OPEN and that would supposedly get rid of any carbon buildup in the heads etc. Anytime you burn oil coking is a given to one degree or another, but its worst in light load, low speed, operations. Heating it would help, additives would help, water injection might help the most. Unfortunately I don't know of any safe way to suck seafoam, marvel, mercury decarb or anything like that into our prechambers.
nightrunner84
Full Access Member
It is my daily driver, but I run 60-70mph for 20 minutes a day...
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FordGuy100
Registered User
I dont get how you guys drive around with such low EGT's. 300-400* EGT's for me is just kinda idling along in gear. 55mph is around 600*, 60mph around 600-650* just driving along. Granted this is driving on windy, curvy, hilly roads. There's a couple grades that I climb and see 900* easily, around 2/3throttle, 55mph. I can see 1100* if I go WOT on those grades, if I'm in it for the whole grade.
Thats my plan though. Once I start burning WMO, every other week or so, I'll drive a couple miles at 55mph in 3rd gear, get those EGT's real high, and burn everything out.
Thats my plan though. Once I start burning WMO, every other week or so, I'll drive a couple miles at 55mph in 3rd gear, get those EGT's real high, and burn everything out.
i actaully seem to drop about 100 on the pyro when i switch to 100 WMO. its a little hard to tell for sure since usually the grade changes some by the time the fuel switches. i am not getting crazy high temps like some forewarned on ATF though. right now i am proubly running around 75 ATF to 25 WMO mix when i switch.
not enough compression, improperly adjusted timing, not enough fuel, extended idle periods.
ATF in the tank. spray bottle with nozzle set on fine mist. spraying while revving the *** out of the motor.
not in this subsection, but then again you're asking the question in the IH idi dept
I happen to like and own a barnyard animal in my fleet but there are some here who are violently allergic to them.
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