Parts list for TTB rebuild?
- Thread starter kc0stp
- Start date
bunch of D50 parts in marketplace for sale...just sayin
GOOSE
Happy IDI'er
2 pivot bushings, leaf spring bushings, all new steering linkage, 3 U-joints, ball joints as stated. Don't forget the bearings, hub seals and the axleshaft bearings that are inside the spindle. Also shocks play a HUGE role with the TTB front end so get some new shocks too.
Best way is to remove drive shaft, spring u bolts and pivot bolts then remove assembly from underneath the truck and onto a stout workbench.
edit***** axle shaft u joints.
Best way is to remove drive shaft, spring u bolts and pivot bolts then remove assembly from underneath the truck and onto a stout workbench.
edit***** axle shaft u joints.
I wouldn't waste your money on new springs... They have a reverse arch from the factory and really don't sag. Usually leaf spring bushings will cure any squat in the front.
So why is it when I look up lower ball joints they all list excluding 4.1 ratio?
Havnt seen my front end, about 1/4" off the bump stops and looks like the bushings are fairly new (based on the fact that the Im constantly on the overloads...empty Im guessing the rear is sagging as well) besides even though I have the tools to do bushings easily by the time you factor in the extra labor/hassle you really aren't saving that much.
That and having done dozens of leaf springs Ive yet to see a new set of bushings solve sagging springs but 98% of those were on stuff bigger/heavier then our trucks.
Havnt seen my front end, about 1/4" off the bump stops and looks like the bushings are fairly new (based on the fact that the Im constantly on the overloads...empty Im guessing the rear is sagging as well) besides even though I have the tools to do bushings easily by the time you factor in the extra labor/hassle you really aren't saving that much.
That and having done dozens of leaf springs Ive yet to see a new set of bushings solve sagging springs but 98% of those were on stuff bigger/heavier then our trucks.
I never did figure that out. That's the reason I did not buy mine from ebay or rockauto, I got them from the local parts store because I was afraid I would get the wrong thing. Turns out my dana 44 hd with the 4.10 ratio takes the same balljoints as the 3.55 frontend does.
Here's a picture of it.
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One thing I did not get and I wish I had were the 3123 needle bearings and the 1175 seal. My bearings where ok, and the seals were ok also, but I would have liked to get new seals there to make sure water did not get in from the back and work it's way up into the wheel bearings and such.
P.S. This is the only forum I go to where I can't use img tags and have the picture come right up in the post. Is there a reason for that?
Are you talking rear or front springs? If rear yes replace but the front can be deceiving (Unless you've been running a snow plow I would doubt the front springs are actually sagging) . I had 1/2" bump stop clearance in the front and changing the bushings picked it up to 1 1/2".
If you don't have a press then it's not worth it to change the bushings and your better off replacing the springs.
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The front shackle has a bushing also that could contribute to sag. It is pretty hard to see without removing the shackle. I replaced all the bushings and my front leafs were still almost against the bump stops. I bought new leafs from National Parts Depot. I am now about 1 5/8" off the stops. I needed adjustable camber bushings maxed out to get my camber back close. I was told the new springs would settle and camber would be closer to spec after a year or two.
