Opinions needed! Ford factory IDI turbo kit

[tbrumm]

My Hobart handler 140 has been a solid machine. No complaints except I wish it was bigger.

When I get a mig, it will probably be a Hobart 190 or 210. I would love to have the Ironman 230. The Hobart equipment and consumables are readily available in my area, and sometimes there are some pretty good sale prices too. I have to send the turbo off to Russ soon for the rebuild so the welder purchase waits again.

 

[mblaney]

@mblaney did that very thing in his "turbo tale" thread. I was hoping that by using the Banks pipe I might be able to eliminate at least one joint.

The Banks pipe was $60 from Summit with free shipping (over $99 order), so it wasn't outrageous. Banks wanted $80.00 plus shipping. Now if it doesn't work, then it will have been expensive.

@laserjock See post #23 in my thread... has the info you are looking for.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I have to send the turbo off to Russ soon for the rebuild so the welder purchase waits again.

Priorities again.

 

[tbrumm]

Came home Friday and this was waiting for me. Man, I am glad I did not have to pay the shipping on this from Banks! Anyway, this intermediate pipe mates up to the Banks DP just fine, but who knows how this will all fit under the truck. We are certainly going to find out!

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[laserjock]

Ah. No sweat. You can always trim the down pipe if you need to adjust it. Lots of adjustment with rotation.

 

[tbrumm]

Popped the valve covers off today so I could start cleaning them up. The engine actually looks pretty darn clean - not what I expected. The injectors all had gray paint on them so I assume they were original. IP appears original as well. Maybe the truck was parked because the E4OD died.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[tbrumm]

Got the turbo shipped off to Russ for the rebuild/60:1 compressor mod! Things are getting serious now. I need to get the rest of the parts cleaned/painted and ready for reinstall when the turbo comes back.

 

[Macrobb]

Popped the valve covers off today so I could start cleaning them up. The engine actually looks pretty darn clean - not what I expected. The injectors all had gray paint on them so I assume they were original. IP appears original as well. Maybe the truck was parked because the E4OD died.

If you change your oil on a regular basis, every IDI should look like this. It's when people neglect it, especially with worn guides, that you get crud up here.

 

[tbrumm]

Finally getting to the turbo install. I am tryiong to find a good way to re-route the wiring harness in order to get the gp controller onto the right side valve cover. If I run the drivers side part of the harness in front of the intake and below the throttle cable bracket, it looks like that will work. However, the number 8 glow plug wire ends up being about 4-5 inches short of the glow plug. Will I screw up the "resistance sensing" of the glow plug controller if I splice in about 5 inches of wire to that number 8 glow plug? That would be the only one affected. Thanks!

 

[Thewespaul]

Nope you will be fine!

 

[tbrumm]

Nope you will be fine!

Thanks, Wes!

 

[tbrumm]

This truck is kicking my butt, but I have the turbo in! It took a long time to re-route the wiring harness so everything was in a good location and the wires looked like they were supposed to be there. After that was done though, I started to make better progress. I now have the OEM Y pipe removed. Looking at the ATS installation instructions, I am supposed to remove the studs on the back end of the passenger's side exhaust manifold, so that the Y part of the up pipe can be bolted to the manifold. I tried removing the studs and so far it is no go. I soaked them in Kroil and I will let them think about that for a while. Can the Y up pipe be bolted to the studs, rather than removing them? I assume the hex portion of the studs will not allow the Y to bolt up tight enough to the end of the manifold?

 

[sjwelds]

I assume the hex portion of the studs will not allow the Y to bolt up tight enough to the end of the manifold?

Correct. I wonder if a guy could machine the flange for clearance tho.... might weaken it...

 

[Thewespaul]

Likely it’s gonna break on you, keep soaking it, heat and cool it repeatedly then take a breaker bar to it.

 

[tbrumm]

Thanks, Guys! I will keep soaking and heating.