One new tire

[IDIBRONCO]

If the lugs or studs are rusty, I would argue you will not be able to torque those correctly.

After you remove the lug nut, there won't be much rust on the threads. There can't be or else the stud would break and the nut wouldn't come off.

Also on all of my gear pullers, first job when I buy one, put wheel bearing grease on the entire length of the stud/bolt. Nothing kills a puller faster than the lack of grease!

Don't confuse lubing threads on something like this with trying to get a proper torque on a lug nut. BIG difference. With a bolt puller, you're not trying to get to a certain torque spec.

the problem is you have to calculate the correct spec. It's something like 10% less if the threads are lubricated, although I'd have to look ot up to be sure.

This is the problem. When you apply lube to the threads on your wheel studs, when you torque them to spec, you're overtorquing them. While it's not impossible, try to find a tire shop that will actually torque your lug nuts. Now try to tell that one that they have to refigure the torque specs because you put some lube on the threads and see what they have to say.

 

[chillman88]

While it's not impossible, try to find a tire shop that will actually torque your lug nuts.

Yup!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's pretty accurate.

 

[snicklas]

Yep.. my oldest thought using the torque wrench was a waste of time... 3 or 4 ugga duggas each lug nut was good enough. He had a bricknose F-250 IDI and had asked me about a strange noise and vibration in the truck. I took it for a ride, and let it coast in neutral, engine off (5 speed 4x4) so I could hear. I got out and took one of the lug nuts off by hand and tossed it at him. I walked into the garage, handed him the torque wrench and the 21 mm socket and told him 100lbs......

He told me that something like 28 of the 32 lug nuts were not tight when he started... and that all 32 were properly torqued now... proper pattern and more than 1 round... now guess who uses a torque wrench.........

 

[Cubey]

Ford dually steel rims say 65psi max, but I have run the rears on my RV at 80psi without a problem.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Cubey]

While it's not impossible, try to find a tire shop that will actually torque your lug nuts.

Walmart. I watched them use a torque wrench on my RV's lug nuts. I had to park outside the bay close to it since it wouldn't fit inside. They brought out a huge floor jack to raise it. The odd thing is they don't have dually air chucks on their air hoses, and it's not quick connects so you can't ask them to swap on one. At least a different Walmart in Abilene Texas didn't. After that, I bought a good heavy duty Slime 2X 12v tire inflator that clamps to the battery and some cheap angled valve stem adapters (removed after filling) since I realized how hard it can be to find a high pressure air hose to fill duallies in a pinch.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Big Bart]

]

This is the problem. When you apply lube to the threads on your wheel studs, when you torque them to spec, you're overtorquing them.

IDIBronco keep in mind the spec was 125-155ft lbs. The shop split the difference at 140, even if to your point is 140ft lbs dry is not as tight as 140ft lbs lubed, it would be a small difference and still is within spec.

I would argue if your threads have rust and dirt on them when you retighten them it is likely to bind up the threads, cause friction, and cause the torque wrench to read the torque you want before it should. I have learned from hitting rusty lugs and nuts with brake clean and a then a rag you pull off rust and dirt from the threads.

At the end of the day if you torque them dry, a little rusty, or lubed they don't fall off. Put the on with a impact gun you may not get them off with a tire iron. Put them on dry and drive on salted roads, salty beaches, or sand dunes. You may struggle considably more trying to get them off on the side of the road. (Worse yet brake them off with a large breaker bar.) Try to wing it or not use the star tighten pattern and don't tighten in a couple of phases. Well next thing you know your tire is gone and your driving on your rotor.

 

[Big Bart]

Yep.. my oldest thought using the torque wrench was a waste of time... 3 or 4 ugga duggas each lug nut was good enough. He had a bricknose F-250 IDI and had asked me about a strange noise and vibration in the truck. I took it for a ride, and let it coast in neutral, engine off (5 speed 4x4) so I could hear. I got out and took one of the lug nuts off by hand and tossed it at him.

At least his tire stayed on thankfully.

2 times I have had to swerve to miss the tire that came off. Once while in Maine and once in Arizona. Seen a half dozen folks on the side of the road missing a tire to see it in the freeway or in the center divide.

Folks in Maine were driving a mini-van in the opposite direction when they shot one my way. I immediately swerved to miss it. Guy behind me just froze up, hit his brakes, and hit it head on. (Tire must of been going 35mph.) Wasted his plastic bumper and grill, smacked his hood, bounced off his window shattering it. Second time it happened the car was further down the road coming at me, had more time to track the tire as to avoid hitting it.

Son's friend who is 14 decides he is going to do the front brakes on the Suburban his dad bought for him. (Guessing his first brake job.) Kid hammered off the old rotors but did not know to press the new rotors onto the hubs (Also does not have one, but could have gone to the machine shop.) He is all done tighten the wheels by hand and had his dad drive for a test drive. Next thing they know the car is shaking. So they park it and the kid calls my son. I told my son look up the torque spec, to take his torque wrench over to his house, and go help him out. Tighten the up, one more test drive incase, rechecked, good to go. Should have had them grease those studs!

 

[TahoeTom]

This has been a good thread. I lube wheel studs with a small amount of motor oil. I don't know if that is correct but they stay tight. The factory dog dish hubcaps really help keep the lugs/studs from rusting

 

[Low1gear]

I have been putting grease or anti- seize on lug nuts & studs for over 40 years. Here in Minnesota the land of salt & rust it’s a necessity. And yes during my 30 year career as a ASE certified master Auto Technician I worked at a couple Goodyear stores. I have heard all the old wife’s tales about the lug nuts will loosen up. If you read a Factory Service Manual carefully you will see Ford recommends lubricating threads. As for battery powered Impact wrench’s you can’t beat the Milwaukee M18 with its 1400 lbs of loosing torque. If your not careful you can snap car lug nuts right off like I have. Lol

 

[Big Bart]

Low1Gear - Amen brother!

 

[Jackieboy]

Most medium and heavy truck centers sell equalizing tire pressure equipment.

 

[Ayla]

Harbor Freight has 1/2 breaker bar 4 ft long if your really want to make it easier for yourself,. Or MAC tools has a 3 ft. 1/2" flex head ratchet for about 160. That's what I use...

 

[Old Goat]

Thanks for the O Ring tip, I have a big box of various size rings I bought at HF years ago.

Goat

 

[alsjunk]

You can also line up the slots or holes in the wheels where the valve is showing. And it also possible to have valve in opposite slots, it makes it easier than both valves in the same slot. Then use an air gauge with dual heads for checking pressure. I don't have a dual wheeled truck but I have changed many a flat on the big rigs, tractor/ trailer, mixer trucks, dump trucks. It didnt take many times having the slots not lined up and not being able to air up or check pressure, to learn how to get it right.
My .02 cents worth.