One new tire

jrollf

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You can also line up the slots or holes in the wheels where the valve is showing. And it also possible to have valve in opposite slots, it makes it easier than both valves in the same slot. Then use an air gauge with dual heads for checking pressure. I don't have a dual wheeled truck but I have changed many a flat on the big rigs, tractor/ trailer, mixer trucks, dump trucks. It didnt take many times having the slots not lined up and not being able to air up or check pressure, to learn how to get it right.
My .02 cents worth.
Only problem... at least on my 1993 F350, the hub has a "clocking dowel", as a result there is exactly one clocking position each wheel can go on. Quite annoying as with my factory aluminium rims, the valve stems of the inner steel rim is forced to be behind one of the "spokes" of the outer aluminum rim.

I've been tempted to cut the clocking dowel off... just not sure why it's there in the first place and what the ramifications are if I remove it and change wheel clocking.
 

chillman88

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I've been tempted to cut the clocking dowel off

If you decide to do that, give it a good yank with pliers first. It might very well just pull out. I had to pull the ones off the front of my parts truck, they were just pressed in pins. If they'll come out of a rusty NY truck you shouldn't have any trouble with them hahaha
 

IDIBRONCO

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My guess is that they are line up the holes in the factory steel wheels so that you can access both valve stems. I can't see any issues from removing them.
 

gandalf

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My guess is that they are line up the holes in the factory steel wheels so that you can access both valve stems. ...

I have the factory steel wheels on my truck. The tire guys at Costco complained bitterly on this subject. They tried to check/fill all the tires after they replaced the one. They said they had trouble with the outer duallie tires, and were unable to properly access the valve stems on the inner tires. Those valve stem extenders (for lack of a better name) are looking better every time I think about them.
 

chillman88

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Yeah I have stock wheels too and every gauge I've tried has been angled wrong to catch the valves. It's extremely annoying when you have to pull a wheel to check tire pressure!
 

IDIBRONCO

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Those valve stem extenders (for lack of a better name) are looking better every time I think about them.
I like the idea too. I do have a dually that's getting closer to being operated on. Plus I never said that it actually works that way, it's just how the engineers intended for it to work. I can't post my opinion of engineers on this family friendly forum due to the possible vacation involved.
 

typ4

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I can say that some of the newer (by just a few years) trucks with lug nuts shaped like Chillman88's are are rated at 150 Lb-Ft and are stamped that way. I know that in the past, I've torqued mine to 140. Although I can't do that on the Blue Truck. Someone covered the studs with grease before I bought the truck. I learned while at the Good Year store that you don't lubricate the studs because you won't get an accurate torque on the lug nuts then. The studs are just about dry enough that I can start torquing the lug nuts on it. It's only taken 8 years.
And all thru mechanic school and all training after they drilled into us that threads need lubricant.
Bolts are engineered to be torqued with lube.

AND, if you have ever spent a whole day removing galled nuts and thimbles off a budd wheeled dump truck you would believe this.
Any lube, spray, oil , grease, works, I prefer anti sieze.
 

typ4

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Only problem... at least on my 1993 F350, the hub has a "clocking dowel", as a result there is exactly one clocking position each wheel can go on. Quite annoying as with my factory aluminium rims, the valve stems of the inner steel rim is forced to be behind one of the "spokes" of the outer aluminum rim.

I've been tempted to cut the clocking dowel off... just not sure why it's there in the first place and what the ramifications are if I remove it and change wheel clocking.
That dowel grinds right off. :))
Some even pop out with a hammer blow
 

jrollf

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And all thru mechanic school and all training after they drilled into us that threads need lubricant.
Bolts are engineered to be torqued with lube.

AND, if you have ever spent a whole day removing galled nuts and thimbles off a budd wheeled dump truck you would believe this.
Any lube, spray, oil , grease, works, I prefer anti sieze.
My moto... if I take a bolt / nut off... anti-sieze is a requirement for reasmmbly. I've thanked my past self many times for this. :)
 

chillman88

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My moto... if I take a bolt / nut off... anti-sieze is a requirement for reasmmbly. I've thanked my past self many times for this. :)

Funny story about that. Working on my friend's old K3500, put one thing back together and made sure to slather it with antiseize. He said "you and your antiseize" Went to pull something else off I had previously fought with and it came right off, he says "stuff always seems to come off easier after you've worked on it"

I glared at him and wiggled the bottle of antiseize in his face. Pretty sure he got the message LOL
 

Old Goat

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My moto... if I take a bolt / nut off... anti-sieze is a requirement for reasmmbly. I've thanked my past self many times for this. :)

Just don!t use anti seiz on the Brake Caliper bolts.

Don`t ask.... there is blue Loc-tite on them for a reason.

Goat
 

Scotty4

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Just don!t use anti seiz on the Brake Caliper bolts.

Don`t ask.... there is blue Loc-tite on them for a reason.

Goat
My Subaru caliper bolts were so rusty, no amount of heat or penetrating oil would remove them. I ended up torching the bolt out to remove the caliper, taking to a machine shop for a helicoil, and installing the new bolts with antisieze. At 90k who knows how may times they were off.
 
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