Oil Thread...Again

[Agnem]

My mistake. I posted the wrong link. It's not the premium PLUS, but the premium SELECT.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/HDSelectDieselOil.html

 

[rodymartin]

Here are couple of links about oil:

http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/AllAboutSynthOil.txt

http://www.geocities.com/chrislonghurst/engineoil_bible.html

I had to learn about oils when I rebuilt a few motorcycle engines for Long Distance riding.

One thing to remember.
The oil you you break in a engine with is not the oil you will run in it every day.
After much research and talking with guys that do this for a living. I have come to conclusion that it is worth the expense to seek out the oils for break in the most Engine builders use. All this is a oil that is a oil that is not as slick as the newer oils. This is so the parts in a fresh engine can wear and form together such as rings and bearings. This oil is changes after a few hours of running.

Now my idea of the perfect oil for diesels to run on is High detergent oil with zinc and moly. The Zinc and Moly is to help stop the oil break down under hard use.

The only product have found zinc and moly is STP. If some knows of another please tell me.

The Motorcycle engines I built lived thought the Iron Butt Rally of 11 days and 11000 miles with out dieing.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

My mistake. I posted the wrong link. It's not the premium PLUS, but the premium SELECT.

http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/HDSelectDieselOil.html

Just for curiousity's sake, what does that cost per gallon ??

I would like to use it, but can't find anywhere in my jurisdiction to get it.




I will add this to the discussion :

Rotella's name and rights to the name got bought by another concern; it is not the same old tried and true last forever Rotella that we all used to love.



Another point :

If the CJ-4 oil is as good as the old CI-4, I wonder why the more conscientious manufacturers didn't drop their CI-4 oils and now offer both.

It would seem to me that more profit could be made by not having to make and market both grades.


And, why did John Deere take a stand and refuse to accept the CJ-4 oil for use in their engines, both new and old ??




I may be am eccentric wacko, but I will still go to a lot of trouble to insist on and procure the CI-4 rated oil.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I wonder if this is the same stuff as the good old Kendall L-427 Super-Blu ?? :


http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/HTEP2.html


I can still get the Super-Blu under the Kendall label and can see no difference in it now, as opposed to "then"; it still seems to be really good stuff, but I would bet that the stuff in the link is the original formula.

 

[k_williams1982]

CI-4

Thanks for the information. I'll be sure to use that kind from now on.

 

[CDX825]

Thanks for the information. I'll be sure to use that kind from now on.

Just be sure there is no mention of CJ-4 on the bottle to. If it has CJ-4 on the bottle to then its the newer oil with less zinc.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

Just be sure there is no mention of CJ-4 on the bottle to. If it has CJ-4 on the bottle to then its the newer oil with less zinc.

I'll check at work tomorrow. I know the oil we use in our diesel locomotives contains no zink at all. The barrels are marked "Railroad diesel locomotive oil" If they can get it with no zinc, then they should be able to find it with what we need in it.

 

[jhnlennon]

According to the 4 hours of research I did on BITOG last nite, all the diesel oils still have zinc in them, they just reduced the content from around 1800 ppm to around 1200 ppm(which is still plenty enough for our motors). The only real issues they are having with the new CJ-4 oils is tbn dropout at a sooner rate than then the CI-4. The dropout seems to be about15% sooner. But we are talking about OCI rates going from 25k to around 19k. I am willing to bet that almost NONE of us are running our oil NEARLY that long anyway, much less doing oil anylsis to extend out drain intervals. If you change your oil out at 5k miles you probly will NEVER EVER have any trouble running the CJ-4 oils. All the same additives are in the new CJ-4 oils, just not in as high of rates(which most of us dont need anyway since we arent concerned with high OCI rates). There are other additives in the CJ-4 that are not in the CI-4 oils though. They have a much higher detergency rate to cope with the added soot levels that are experianced with egr valves and DPF filters. You guys gotta check out that web site. There is a wealth of info and alot of MYTH dispelling. There are plenty of oil anylsis reports over there of people going 15k of more with the new CJ-4 oils with absolutely no increased signs of engine wear that can be attributed to the oil. IS the new CJ-4 oil as good as the old CI-4? Not quite it seems as far as OCI's goes, but when changed properly it seems to be up to par in other respects.

 

[Agnem]

I've always been of the opionion that if you change the oil often enough, it does matter less what kind you use, however I also believe that the single biggest contributing factor to engine wear is what oil you use. Given that, and taking into consideration marketing, environmental lobbiests, advertisement dollars, and manufacturer preferences, I also believe that they will sell you whatever the hell they want regardless of how good or bad it is for your engine. Your right, in that none of us are chemical engineers with a complete lab and the time to test every thing. All I know is my Blackstone reports were good with CI oil, and that's what I'm sticking with. I pay about $45 a pail for the Brad Penn Select. I order it from a distributor, and yea I have to pay a delievery fee. My coworker builds race motors and uses special oils from them, so we try to time our delivery and share the cost. Remember that the folks who sell diesel fuel tell us that it's OK for our motors too, and that we don't need no stinkin' additives. Oh, and that funny colored coolant. You guys can use that too. Oh, Mecon V in your automatic trans? No problem. Just ignore that part in the manual where it specifically said NEVER to use Mercon V, but only Mercon. Sure we changed the formulation. Sure we did. Didn't we?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

If that pail is five-gallons, $45 isn't bad at all; nine-bucks a gallon if my math is right.

 

[hesutton]

There is no one selling the Brad Penn stuff here. I don't know, but the cost of delivery may be prohibative.

I'm going to Blackstone my oil at the next change and see what it says. I've used the "New" Rotella" with Lucas oil stabilizer for some time now. Well see.

Heath

 

[funnyman06]

Ive always used Valvoline premium Blue in my truck? At one point i changed it with Carquest fleet oil and it didnt like it, so its been premium blue ever since. I was looking at going to Walmart and checking out the John Deere oil, but if the difference between CJ-4 and CI-4 isnt huge, then i might just stick with the PSD filter and Premium Blue. Plus my truck is due for an oil change now, so this is all very helpful. Thx guys

 

[NCheek]

Other than excessive soot from my awful blowby, my Blackstone reports have been fine using the "new" Rotella 15w-40.

Next change I'll be running some auto rx through it to see if I can't partially resolve my blowby problem...

On Edit: I attached my Blackstone reports, both using rotella. The first one was right after I changed my water pump (explaining the coolant in the oil), and the second was my follow up. These reports haven't given any screaming reason to be wary of the CJ-4 oils, but I'm no pro.

 

[ne buckeye]

I use the John Deere plus 50, Its about $55.00 for 5 gallons, but you get a nice bucket I have had no problems with it, and it seems to use less of it.Also no blow-bye

 

[Exekiel69]

I used mainly motorcraft 15-40w and always got good blackstone results with that. Now I use delo400 and it seems to work just fine too. The key for Me is availability and delo has good reputation and I can get it almost anywhere.