Non-wastegated banks turbo install parts needs

smooth

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Holly Springs, nc
Okay, so back in April I picked up an old non-wastegated Banks system, but I put the project on hold as I also had to replace the engine (cracked cylinder wall) and didn't have time or money to do the work.
Well, I got a good deal on a used 93 non-turbo with 136k on it out of a van, that's suppose to be a runner, for $600. So, I've got my old engine out and am in the process of swapping everything from my engine over, including: wiring harness (since Mother Ford decided the wiring harness plug needed to come from different sides depending on if the model began with an 'E' or an 'F'), fuel filter since the air box with my turbo kit doesn't fit with the van one, which required me to swap the dip stick (I thought it would have been cool to have the longer van one), my injectors since I had them popped tested before the engine was declared dead, exhaust manifolds, oil cooler, fuel pump (since I couldn't get the feed pipe off either of them and they are specific to which fuel filter set-up they go to), vacuum pump, oil pan (since the van one had a patch job on the front that was weeping oil), starter (recently replaced mine), new glow plugs (the Motorcraft ones), and fuel return lines and caps (since mine were brand new), and I'm considering swapping the water pump since mine is new and I'm right there anyways.
So, with that outta the way, the new engine will be going in with the turbo attached, and having really looked at this thing, I realized I'm missing some things that I need help locating.
The CDR relocator I saw I can get from Banks, anyone have any idea on cost?
The backing plate for the intake. I think I could fab something, but if it's cheap enough, I'll just use it.
The oil supply line that comes up the driver's side of the block as well as the 'junction block.' Is this really necessary? I noticed on Agnem's Hypermax install it used the oil pressure sending unit location on the back of the block.
The glow plug solenoid relocation bracket. Again, I'm sure I could fab something but it'd be easier if I could just buy it, if the price is right.
I think that's it. If anyone has any other pointers on my project, I'd love to hear them. I know I also need to get some more fuel return line to reroute it towards the front to keep it away from the turbo. Also, what has everyone done to reduce the heat coming through the firewall/floor? There's some heat blankets attached to it, but is there a source everyone uses? I plan on coating some of the pipes (at least, the ones I can fit in the oven) with that 2k degree rattle can paint anything else. I know I can use exhaust wrap, but it's a big pain and the last time I did it, it dryrotted and fell off.

All right, that's it for now. Assist me oh great men and women of the kingdom of IDI.:hail

MoMo
 

82F100SWB

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Posts
1,187
Reaction score
1
Location
Sioux Lookout, Ontario,CA
For the oil feed lines, any hydraulics shop can set you up with what you need, that's what I did for the non gated setup I had on my 86, the -4 AN that Banks used is equivalent to 1/4" JIC if memory serves. I had all the hydraulic lines and fittings and a tee to mount my oil pressure sender unit inline like Banks did for about $45 at my local shop.
 

smooth

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Holly Springs, nc
Thanks, I may have to look at that. Now I'm having trouble finding where to order the CDR relocation, anyone have any ideas?

MoMo
 

smooth

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Holly Springs, nc
Another question. Any reason I cannot tap my oil supply off of the oil cooler? I am using a braided line from Home Depot and routing it away from the exhaust up to a 'T' for the sending unit and turbo. Am I I doing this wrong?

MoMo
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
Don't use the braided line from home depot. It will rupture and kill your motor. Do this oil feed line correctly with a hydraulic shop or Banks only type of hose... The Banks hose is braided stainless steel and it wont let you down. I have over 200,000 miles on mine and still going strong. This is no place to go cheap with home depot stuff.
 

smooth

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Holly Springs, nc
Alright, so what if I made a brass line to work? I'm not trying to be cheap, I just don't think there's a hydraulic shop around here.
Also, is there some reason the Banks system taps oil from the side of the motor instead of the back where the sending unit goes like the Hypermax?
Also, also, is there going to be any problem running the oil line off of the oil cooler?

Thanks,

MoMo




Edited: Found and ordered the CDR relocation kit
 
Last edited:

greg_a_morton

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Posts
712
Reaction score
7
Location
blossom tx
When I take my banks kit off I can take it to a shop to get you a quote on a new line if you want. I would say it would be $50-$75. Every thing is getting high except for my paycheck:mad:.
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
The Banks oil feed line uses the lower port because of ease of reaching it. That port on the back top of the motor is a killer to just feel it let alone work on it... Plus its going to be below the hot turbo ....Trying to tap an oil feed line off the oil cooler will be tuff. Finding the location of clean oil is not an easy thing. I really don't think it can be down...
 

65sixbanger

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Posts
1,288
Reaction score
2
Location
New Braunfels, Texas
The truck I pulled my block out of, had that pickup banks recomends you use stripped out, so mine is teed at the back of the motor
 

smooth

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Posts
107
Reaction score
0
Location
Holly Springs, nc
Nope, everything has been fine. Although that T, dropped my oil pressure a lot, but besides the drain leak, its all good.

It's funny you mention that, because I was thinking about that. I have a gauge for mine, and I was thinking the pressure would have to drop since it goes past the sending unit and into the turbo where it eventually drains out. Kinda hard to build 'pressure' when it doesn't stop with the sending unit.

MoMo
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,351
Posts
1,130,875
Members
24,151
Latest member
JU57US
Top