No such thing as a quality after market radiator for

Greg5OH

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Been running my plastic end tank autozone special for $180 bucks zero issues..lifetime warrantee too..Coming up to 2 years soon.
Its a alrge 2 core, cools bettter than the 3 row all aluminum one it repalced which started seepign a tthe end tanks.
 

chris142

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Most radiator shops these days will not touch our original rads. They don't feel that they can guarantee them for the labor they put into them, and so most will source you an aftermarket instead. We do sell a brand not mentioned much here.... Performance Radiator. Our customers have had excellent luck with these, and I have 3 of them running in the Moose fleet and have had no issues.

Yep me included.radiators only last so long.we stopped trying to fix ones that are worn out. We would spend hrs,solder etc but would still have junk. Of course the customer never offered to pay us for our time and solder.
 

Matt_INW

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@icanfixall and all, the original radiator is what failed last year. The Champion I put in leaked immediately, so put in the current brass/copper one which started leaking recently. I use NAPA green, distilled water, and NAPA SCA additive, and have monitored the SCA level and it's stayed fine the past year.

@Clb, Is this the company you're referring to? flowkoolerwaterpumps.com

@mbolton1990, that looks like the champion, but less expensive. If it's the same dimensions as in your van I would think it will work. The champion version of that fit ok.

@IDIoit, it looks like AFCO is the same as champion. From that and other things I've seen I'm wondering if a few companies rebrand Champion/Summit racing?

@Agnem, I recall you pinging me on those last time. I may have to reconsider. I just really wanted a copper and brass and not aluminium.
 

mbolton1990

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Now I'm having second thoughts on the el cheapo rad, lol. My original one isn't leaking yet but I'm expecting it to anyday now.
I just got word back from the seller he said that the rads do have a built-in transmission cooler just like the photo suggests but the reason why they're for manual transmission trucks is they dont have the barbed adapters to hook up the lines too.

What's the work-around for that?
 

79jasper

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What do you mean?
If your truck is a manual, do nothing.
If it's auto, add hose barbs.

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Clb

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Yes sir( o p )
brassworks is the orignal co
Usa made. brass only
 
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MTKirk

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I was quoted $850 plus shipping for a Rodney Red 2 1" row radiator.

I decided to give champion another try and ordered a 2 1" row directly from them, I'm hoping It will have a better chance arriving undamaged than the TWO champion radiators I previously ordered from Jegs.

I decided on a 2 row because it has 1" tubes and 14-16 fins per inch. The 3 row has 3/4" tubes 14-16 fins per inch. The 4 row has 5/8" tubes. It seems to me that the 2 row will have much better air flow through the radiator, which should more than make up for the slightly larger tube surface area the 3 & 4 row radiators have. In my truck the limiting factor seems to be how much air I can move through the radiator, even at highway speed I am needing to run a fan when towing. We shall see...
 

mbolton1990

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You screw the barb into the hole?.....
I guess I'm not understanding.

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I meant where do you buy the barbs.
Couldn't find a solid source for the thread pitch/size

The seller just said it's M10x1.5,and my trans line is 5/16 or 8mm.
I can't find a barb adapter that'd work
 

79jasper

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Hose will stretch.
Visit some of the other radiator threads on here.
Have you been to Lowe's, home depot, etc?

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towcat

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i've been running 7lb caps for years and have had zero issues with blowing up tank seams, rupturing tubes or cavitation. I done this cap swap to 15 trucks to date and no cooling system problems other than an occasional water pump. I am preparing for the composite alu core/plastic cap radiators and hoping they will help my cooling system a little more where it sits at the bottom of the stack. I figure if it works for '99 and up trucks, my application can't be that far off.
 

firehawk

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I decided on a 2 row because it has 1" tubes and 14-16 fins per inch. The 3 row has 3/4" tubes 14-16 fins per inch. The 4 row has 5/8" tubes. It seems to me that the 2 row will have much better air flow through the radiator, which should more than make up for the slightly larger tube surface area the 3 & 4 row radiators have. In my truck the limiting factor seems to be how much air I can move through the radiator, even at highway speed I am needing to run a fan when towing. We shall see...

Smaller tubes have a greater surface area, and that is what aids in cooling. Fins per inch is another factor. You want lots of tubes and fins. Air flow has nothing to do with number of tubes, unless it was so ill designed that air could not flow through it, which I have never seen. To put it another way, if you are looking at it from air flow based on how it looks, you want the one that "looks" like it will flow the least. Its all about heat transfer.
 

yARIC008

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Could you post the link where you got yours from? I for the life of me still can't find the 4 row one anywhere, I played with the keywords on eBay and now the 2 rows are coming up but still no 4 rows. Guess my eBay-fu is weak today. :D

A little late, but here is where it was.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161623267891?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Can't really say much about the quality yet, as I haven't run it, but it sure looks nice. All the welds, from what I can tell, look completely professional. My box came in perfect condition with no signs of damage. Hope it works okay...

I also am having a hard time finding the trans cooler fittings. Every ad that I have found for these things lists a different connection for the trans cooler. It says mine should have 1/8" NPT fittings from the ebay ad, but they defintley are not, my tap for M14x1.5 seems to fit on there and they also look like flare fittings, so... it's a pain. Going to have to go shopping this weekend to try to find something to fit on there.
 
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