NEW TRUCK!!!!!!!!

greythorn3

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make sure they fix the steering issue also, i would hate to see what it looks like when your suspension is unloaded after a bump.. looks like teh adjusting sleaves may not have allot of threads holding them togeather also. the Y setup is a bad setup to begin with.. see if they can get a larger drop on the steering box arm that may help, other wise i dont know what you would do other then install a T type linkage, because i dont think you can do cross over with the stamped axles on the twin traction beam.. might be somthing to check into though.. ya larger leafs in the front will allow you to remove the blocks.. and that is the most dangerous situation right now.. 2nd most is the steering though. and that stock steering isnt going to stay togeather like it is. Im glad your being smart about it i would hate to see a pretty girl like yoruself get hurt with such a nice truck too.



Ray
 
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Diesel JD

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I'll ask my brother what he thinks about that paint job quote. He had his Isuzu Trooper and a Mistu 300GT completely repainted. Is it just paint, or is it paint, clearcoat kiln dried etc.? Makes a big difference in price and in quality/longevity.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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body work, paint, clearcoat.... etc not sure about the kiln dry though? It's a smallish type business, sort of hole in the wall...... so i'm not sure if they are just trying to get some business and get they're name out there a bit more.... I'm a little leary, but if they do all they say they're gunna do it would be a GREAT deal, it all comes with a 3 year warranty.... another place i talked to said they're paint jobs started at 1800 bucks!! eep!
 

FordGuy100

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body work, paint, clearcoat.... etc not sure about the kiln dry though? It's a smallish type business, sort of hole in the wall...... so i'm not sure if they are just trying to get some business and get they're name out there a bit more.... I'm a little leary, but if they do all they say they're gunna do it would be a GREAT deal, it all comes with a 3 year warranty.... another place i talked to said they're paint jobs started at 1800 bucks!! eep!

My paint job ended up costing me <cough> $3300. I think I got a little ripped off, but its almost a year old now, and it still shines like its brand new (when washed LOL, its dirty right now). 2 coats base, 3 clear coats on mine, Duponts blazing fire red paint, plus all the body work.
 

towcat

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guys-
when it comes to bodywork and paint, there's nothing cheap about it. If you're looking for a job that will last. I myself don't do bodywork or paint anymore, I just shepard the jobs through shops I know that can/will do a good job and be reasonable about it? what's reasonable? depends on what you're willing to live with. I've run scuff and shoots for $1500 and heavy rust removal and reconstruction for $15k. As bad as the environazis are in kali, the good thing is that most of the paint is some pretty good stuff now. But the stuff ain't cheap. Personally, I've done the $10k job on one of my cars, I also totalled it 6 months later. These days, I won't do a expensive job an any of my trucks. Why? I don't want to have to worry about another thing. As long as it's not badly beat up, it stays the way it is. I don't worry about nasty folliage, inconsiderate livestock, and vandals as a result. If you do need to have a "good" public image, then shoot it in a solid color(ie. no metallic colors), cheaper and faster to fix when you get into a owie.
 

FordGuy100

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guys-
when it comes to bodywork and paint, there's nothing cheap about it. If you're looking for a job that will last. I myself don't do bodywork or paint anymore, I just shepard the jobs through shops I know that can/will do a good job and be reasonable about it? what's reasonable? depends on what you're willing to live with. I've run scuff and shoots for $1500 and heavy rust removal and reconstruction for $15k. As bad as the environazis are in kali, the good thing is that most of the paint is some pretty good stuff now. But the stuff ain't cheap. Personally, I've done the $10k job on one of my cars, I also totalled it 6 months later. These days, I won't do a expensive job an any of my trucks. Why? I don't want to have to worry about another thing. As long as it's not badly beat up, it stays the way it is. I don't worry about nasty folliage, inconsiderate livestock, and vandals as a result. If you do need to have a "good" public image, then shoot it in a solid color(ie. no metallic colors), cheaper and faster to fix when you get into a owie.

Aint that the truth. I wish I didnt have to worry about scratching the paint, ect. I would love to have a beater truck that I didnt really care about thrashing, but I aint going to do it to my truck.
 

4x4TruckinGirl

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ouch rubberfish.... thats bringin' up some bad memories for him I bet.....


on the paint note, i want to do two tone charcoal grey and black on the bottom, sort of like the newer PSD lariat paint scheme.... I probly won't get that started though till I get back from Kentucky, headin' there saturday for 2 weeks for work.... we shall see i guess.....
 

BigRigTech

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I just got a quote from a guy I grew up with, he has his own body shop business..$1200 for 2 tone base/clear if I remove the trim and weld in a couple of patches before hand....Time to start saving my pennies....LOL
 

rubberfish

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ouch rubberfish.... thats bringin' up some bad memories for him I bet.....
I'm pretty sure he knows I'm just poking at him.

I understand how he felt about all that too.
Jr. fish drove the tip of the pressure washer
down the side of my truck while he was helping me
wash my truck. The little puke. Man I was pissed. :rotflmao
At least I can laugh at it now... as can Justin. :thumbsup:

I think the black/grey combo is cool. ;Sweet
 

MUDKICKR

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ok the best thing to do about your lift block problem and wanting to keep it the same height is very easy. go to the local leaf spring store and ask them if they have any old leaf springs laying around, it doesnt matter what they are off of as long as there the same width as your springs. cut them to about 6" inches long and stack them up the same height as the lift blocks. get new centerbolts and bolt them in and your set and safe. i have done a few lift kits my self and sometimes you have to do this to make them level. now you can make them a little shorter but as long as there a little bit longer then the spring pad you will be fine. and since there bolted in with the centerbolt they will never pop out and they will pass any inspection. where i learned this trick is from a 2000 ford explorer eddie baurer sport. it had a monoleaf in the rear and four cut short springs from the factory. so if ford does it this way from the factory it has to be safe.
 

BigRigTech

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ok the best thing to do about your lift block problem and wanting to keep it the same height is very easy. go to the local leaf spring store and ask them if they have any old leaf springs laying around, it doesnt matter what they are off of as long as there the same width as your springs. cut them to about 6" inches long and stack them up the same height as the lift blocks. get new centerbolts and bolt them in and your set and safe. i have done a few lift kits my self and sometimes you have to do this to make them level. now you can make them a little shorter but as long as there a little bit longer then the spring pad you will be fine. and since there bolted in with the centerbolt they will never pop out and they will pass any inspection. where i learned this trick is from a 2000 ford explorer eddie baurer sport. it had a monoleaf in the rear and four cut short springs from the factory. so if ford does it this way from the factory it has to be safe.


This is common practice on big rigs and it is done on steer axles...You would be surprised how flimsy some steer axle lift blocks are. I recently put a set on a Aerocab Kenworth....They didn't look to ****-hot to me, I really didn't care for the way they were made to stay in place. Personally, I would get new springs and ditch the blocks - lift blocks equal longer u-bolts and therefore weaker u-bolts.
 

tonkadoctor

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Good paint costs $$$$$, don't skip on quality for something that's expected to last years.... You get what you pay for.

Materials alone were over $600 for just the fairing, fenders, tank and side covers on my brothers Kawasaki 750 2 stroke I painted last year. Looks like glass with a green to gold flip flop in the sun. We were trying to mimic liquid antifreeze. Still have to get the factory decals on and clear over them, couldn't do that while I was down last summer because the paint had to cure 100% or risk bubbles in the decals.

Black primer sealer base - 2 coats
PPG pure gold base - 3 coats
PPG Indy Green Kandy - 5 coats
PPG Clear w/ green gold pearl flake - 3 coats
PPG clear no pearl 2 coats

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His pipes are custom made and are still raw steel.... Uses Future floor wax to keep them from rusting, works great. This bike is stupid fast, he builds a mean 2 stroke.
 

FordGuy100

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Didn't your mom take care of that for you? :angel:

Nope, its still there LOL

ouch rubberfish.... thats bringin' up some bad memories for him I bet.....

Jeez, I cant believe you guys/gals remember that, that was a long time ago. Its all good now, I can laugh at it at least, though I'm still not very happy with it :D.

I just got ******* out by my parents driving them home tonight. They were getting on me because I was driving 60mph. There like "when your our age, you can drive that fast, but at your age you have to do the speed limit (which was 55mph)" :***: That right there pissed me off big time, I had to sit there for a good 20 minutes listening to that BS. I'm not in a good mood one might say :mad:
 
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