New to me 94 IDIT rescue.

[ShadetreeV]

Hi all, new to the forum.
Picked up a 94 turbo extended cab xlt with a Zf5, p.o. added an intercooler, a bit of a hack job but functional. Awesome truck, but there's a twist.. originally described to me that it had some "smoke damage" due to an electrical fire. reality being, there's nothing left of the interior. Bad undercarriage battery conversion grounded out and lit up the blower motor in the heater core. Truck sat for a few years until now .
So. After a re-wire and splicing of the electrical, fixed some fuel priming issues. she runs like a top! 366,*** on the odo by the way!. Got the guage cluster working except the tach, need to re wire the pyro and boost pods as they got a bit crispy.

Current issue is actually with the clutch. Replaced the slave cylinder after it puked and found the pivot point on the clutch arm to master cylinder is worn or lacking a bushing and not allowing enough travel to disengage the clutch. Is there a kit out there for this or do I need to pull the pedal box and engineer a fix?

 

[ShadetreeV]

More pics to come.

Anyone have a nice dash and heater core they want to get rid of?!

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[compressionignitionrules]

clean looking truck, on the outside. nice score, welcome aboard just toss the K&N .

 

[Mulochico]

I know they have a questionable rep, but I replaced my peddle bracket assembly with one from LMC 6-7 years ago and it is still working great. Might check their site www.lmctruck.com. Or look at wrecking yards. My problem is that there are very few stick shift trucks out there in yards around me.

 

[ShadetreeV]

Thanks for the lead on lmc, their parts diagram shows a bushing kit available. Will yard the box out to diagnose the problem further. From the looks of it I may need to drop the steering column support to get it out?
Regarding the air filter . It's a spectre brand, was going to clean it and run it for a while , is there a better alternative out there? I'm planning on fabricating a box to isolate it from engine bay heat so I may be able to build it with a different style filter in mind

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum and nice looking rig. Turbo with a ZF is a great combo too.Can you take a pic of the fuel filter? I don't see it under the hood. Also post the block serial numbers that are stamped into the block just to the drivers side of the injection pump gear housing. That way this forum can tell you the type and year on this engine. Nobody can look at this and know for certain if it really is a turbo block with turbo rods and pistons. But no matter. Any 6.9 or 7.3 can handle any turbo easily.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Spectre brand air filters are junk. A member on here ran one for a while until he discovered piles of dust in his intake system.
Change it with something like an AEM dryflow filter

 

[Mulochico]

Might also check www.rockauto.com for your peddle bushings. Good resource for most things, just not sure if they carry those bushings.

 

[ShadetreeV]

Thanks all, I'll check rock auto too, no luck at the salvage yards here for a used pedal box.

I'll toss the filter . Any thoughts on running a uni style foam filter with a turbo? I've used them on NA Baja rigs and they catch everything, suppose I need to research if they can handle the cfm this thing needs .
Icanfixall-
The filter head is the stock unit relocated to the passenger inner fender and soft line as extensions where the hardlines were cut. I thought it was a tad sketchy so I've uprated the flex line bits to Parker pushloc hose .
I'm fairly certain the block is a genuine turbo model, the ID tag in the drivers side valve cover is intact . I'll check the casting numbers to verify someone didn't swap the covers . It sure does run good for 350K+....suspicious,maybe. It is an idi after all.

 

[ShadetreeV]

Hydro-idi-
Great suggestion on the aem brand, haven't run one but they look to be a much better alternative to a foam style.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Hydro-idi-
Great suggestion on the aem brand, haven't run one but they look to be a much better alternative to a foam style.

AEM is one of the best from what I've heard. Had one on my idi when it was turboed. My Jeep came with a K&N cold air intake and I want to eventually put an AEM dryflow on it. Not a big fan of K&N filters because they don't filter well unless you have a sock on it.

 

[icanfixall]

Valve covers can be installed on any 6.9 or 7.3 head so that wont tell you what BLOCK you have. Its well known the 7.3 block run started at 507,00 and ran up to 1,116,330. Then the turbo block ran from 1,116,331 up to the end of the run. It was a short run that lasted about 6 months of trucks so equipped with a turbo idi engine. We do not have the number nor the finial block either. But it was not very many. At one time in 1993 you could buy from Ford a non turbo truck. a turbo truck and finally in the same year you could buy the first powerstroke truck. Three trucks in the same year.Part counter jockeys have had plenty of issues with this too. Thanks for telling me the filter was moved to the fender. Even though we have filters on all diesel pumps at any station we never know if they are kept up. Sadly our injection pump can't process dirt. the rollers in the pumping area have a clearance way less that one thousands of an inch. Another thing that ruins our injection pumps fast is water. Its viscosity is too thick so it ruins the clearances plus it will rust everything.

 

[oregon96psd]

Not sure if you need the pedal bushing or the arm bushing, but this is what all of my trucks have.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Clutch...ash=item3cf794d960:g:JBoAAOSwDNdVijPP&vxp=mtr

 

[IDIBRONCO]

The block serial number will start: 7.3TU2U on a factory turbo block unless someone ground off the serial number for some reason.

 

[Macrobb]

The main important thing with 6.9/7.3 is the head bolt size: If a 7/16 12-point socket fits them, it's a 6.9. If a 1/2 12-point socket fits, it's a 7.3.
If neither fits... you might have studs.
If you can find the markings on the block, you should see 6.9D, 7.3D or 7.3TU2U. These tell you exactly what you have.

Personally, I haven't had issues with the K&N filters & Knockoffs thereof - Oil them up with the "filter charger" oil(the more the better, honestly), and you shouldn't have any problems.