GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
My gauge reads 7psi at idle, after the stock filter and before the IP.
my fauct pump install pics
- Thread starter jonathan
- Start date
My gauge reads 7psi at idle, after the stock filter and before the IP.
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
So this being my first diesel truck.....can I just use regular 3/8 rubber fuel line?
jonathan
Full Access Member
yes i did
fields_mj
Full Access Member
I've been wanting to do this for quite a while now. Just to get this straight, the new pump has 1/8" npt female threads, and the existing filter has 1/4" NPT female threads. Is that correct?
I've also got a goldenrod that I was going to mount in there somewhere, but with the filter on the pump, I'm not sure that I really need it.
Thanks,
Mark
I've also got a goldenrod that I was going to mount in there somewhere, but with the filter on the pump, I'm not sure that I really need it.
Thanks,
Mark
johneich
John, 1983 F250
The new pump has 1/8 npt female yes, and you might want to consider buying 1/8 mnpt-1/8 fnpt elbows so you have them on hand for install day, I am having time finding them in BFE.
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/41065/10002/-1
Sorry, not looked at the current filter yet to know.
Just my .02
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/41065/10002/-1
Sorry, not looked at the current filter yet to know.
Just my .02
pennsylvaniabo
Full Access Member
To do this install do I have to drain the engine oil to eliminate the mechanical pump?
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
).
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
would a 4-bolt chevy blockoff plate work if I chop it up to look like that 2-bolt diamond one?
alot of part stores around me only have the 4-er
Pump is mounted, wired, and somewhat plumbed. Just gotta finish the fuel line stuff.
alot of part stores around me only have the 4-er
Pump is mounted, wired, and somewhat plumbed. Just gotta finish the fuel line stuff.
Best to use the more expensive stuff speced for fuel injection lines. It will hold up to biodiesel in case you ever happen to fill up at a pump that has some in it ( even if you don't plan on it, if you ever travel through Oregon, you will be anyway )
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
would a 4-bolt chevy blockoff plate work if I chop it up to look like that 2-bolt diamond one?
alot of part stores around me only have the 4-er
Pump is mounted, wired, and somewhat plumbed. Just gotta finish the fuel line stuff.
I had one of those sitting around and it just didn't quite fit. You could try to hit one of the wrecking yards and look for a FI Chevy truck and pull the plate off it.
Bunookana
Registered User
I just got mine on the other day. I was looking for an excuse the dig out the welder and fab up some brackets. The pump draws very low amperage, so I found a wire that was hot with key on that wasn't being used near the starter selinoid. Great investment, saves on the starter.
Block off plate
backet for heat exchanger
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/bunookana/89 F-250 IDI Diesel/IMG_20110409_105039.jpg
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Block off plate
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backet for heat exchanger
http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb365/bunookana/89 F-250 IDI Diesel/IMG_20110409_105039.jpg
jonathan
Full Access Member
man that looks great. what are all of the other hoses for?
OB_WAN
Full Access Member
no pictures but here's what I just did this weekend:
went to Napa and picked up the following items:
1. qty 2 = 1/8 male NPT to 3/8 hose adapter - 90 degree fitting
2. qty 1 = 1/4 mail NPT to 3/8 hose adapter - 90 degree fitting
3. 2 ft(or maybe 3, can't remember) of some 3/8 HD USA fuel line diesel(and maybe bio-diesel) rated
4. qty 4 = hose clamps to fit the 3/8 hose
earlier picked up a Chevy BB block-off plate from Kragen
Steps takenmissed a step, 1a. disconnect batteries)
1. removed lift pump(had to use a swivel socket& extension for inside bolt, not too bad). replaced with block off plate(I had to grind a little off the bottom of the plate for some reason I thought it wasn't quite fitting in the groove of the old lift pump)
2. removed hard line, rubber line and existing fitting from lift pump to fuel filter
3. installed all new 90 degree fittings on fuel filter and new pump
4. mounted lift pump on passenger fender behind battery, so intake port line can drop down to existing feed hard line.
5. routed new fuel lines to pump and from pump to fuel filter
6. wired electrical switch for pump to the glow plug relay. 2 red wires on relay are keyed (run) 12v feed. used inline fuse on connection.
7. double-checked all fittings/clamps, reconnected batteries, primed the pump by letting it run for a very short time before starting.
8. fuel line was rubbing on a pulley so shut off the truck, tied the fuel line off to the ground wire, and walla.
Results:
1. It fired almost immediately, runs very smooth. MUCH better than with the old lift pump. No more fuel leaks.
2. with the moose pump and the original lift pump, my engine felt like it was hitting a dead spot at heavy throttle before, causing engine to bog down a little, delay in power. That's gone.
3. looked at the original lift pump, there's a groove in the arm for the pump. old lift pump may have been running a little weak. never checked PSI @ fuel filter prior to swap.
4. it's time to put an intercooler on the truck to get some dense air in there to keep up with the fuel delivery.
5. once the intercooler is installed, time to finish my dyno-timing on the truck. guessing timing was adjusted a little by new PSI of electric pump. not sure but I think the moose pump needed a little timing anyway.
went to Napa and picked up the following items:
1. qty 2 = 1/8 male NPT to 3/8 hose adapter - 90 degree fitting
2. qty 1 = 1/4 mail NPT to 3/8 hose adapter - 90 degree fitting
3. 2 ft(or maybe 3, can't remember) of some 3/8 HD USA fuel line diesel(and maybe bio-diesel) rated
4. qty 4 = hose clamps to fit the 3/8 hose
earlier picked up a Chevy BB block-off plate from Kragen
Steps taken
missed a step, 1a. disconnect batteries)1. removed lift pump(had to use a swivel socket& extension for inside bolt, not too bad). replaced with block off plate(I had to grind a little off the bottom of the plate for some reason I thought it wasn't quite fitting in the groove of the old lift pump)
2. removed hard line, rubber line and existing fitting from lift pump to fuel filter
3. installed all new 90 degree fittings on fuel filter and new pump
4. mounted lift pump on passenger fender behind battery, so intake port line can drop down to existing feed hard line.
5. routed new fuel lines to pump and from pump to fuel filter
6. wired electrical switch for pump to the glow plug relay. 2 red wires on relay are keyed (run) 12v feed. used inline fuse on connection.
7. double-checked all fittings/clamps, reconnected batteries, primed the pump by letting it run for a very short time before starting.
8. fuel line was rubbing on a pulley so shut off the truck, tied the fuel line off to the ground wire, and walla.
Results:
1. It fired almost immediately, runs very smooth. MUCH better than with the old lift pump. No more fuel leaks.
2. with the moose pump and the original lift pump, my engine felt like it was hitting a dead spot at heavy throttle before, causing engine to bog down a little, delay in power. That's gone.
3. looked at the original lift pump, there's a groove in the arm for the pump. old lift pump may have been running a little weak. never checked PSI @ fuel filter prior to swap.
4. it's time to put an intercooler on the truck to get some dense air in there to keep up with the fuel delivery.
5. once the intercooler is installed, time to finish my dyno-timing on the truck. guessing timing was adjusted a little by new PSI of electric pump. not sure but I think the moose pump needed a little timing anyway.
That heater hose will work for a short time, but it will not last. Gotta get some fuel hose (Gates or Goodyear, not the Thailand stuff from AZ).
Heath
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