Manual Tank Selector Valves

[sle2115]

After pouring a few gallons of diesel all over the Interstate when my stock selector valve hung, I've not once regretted going to my manual setup.
That Parker valve would be nice, but 2 separate valves allows you to transfer fuel from one tank to the other. You can even transfer fuel with the truck off if you have an electric fuel pump.
I bought my valves from McMaster-Carr.

Ewww....nice thinking!

 

[sle2115]

Well, my main fear is a valve failure, mine already isn't sending fuel signal to the gauge...so I think it would be an easy solution. Now just gotta locate the valves.

 

[sle2115]

Ok, so where are the 4 port diversion valves?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Although those long shank double-ball do-it-all valves look and sound good in theory, they do not last so well in actual practice.

There is quite a bit of seal friction going on even when switching a single ball valve.

That friction is about quadrupled with those double-ball valves, due to the second ball being so much farther from the rotating force.

In real world practice, about the fourth time you switch tanks, the stem snaps off, leaving you with the switch-handle in your hand; already been there and been all over all that.

 

[warhog]

Although those long shank double-ball do-it-all valves look and sound good in theory, they do not last so well in actual practice.

There is quite a bit of seal friction going on even when switching a single ball valve.

That friction is about quadrupled with those double-ball valves, due to the second ball being so much farther from the rotating force.

In real world practice, about the fourth time you switch tanks, the stem snaps off, leaving you with the switch-handle in your hand; already been there and been all over all that.

What? I guess there's always a lot of freak things in any application, but I have yet to have any issues with the valves. Before I got a commuter car, id switch tanks 3+ times a week.

 

[RLDSL]

I used Moeller 4 way valves been in about 4 years or so now. Remember to grab the things evenly and turn from the center on any valve ( yes it can be done blindly with one hand )
I have my tanks each setup on their own electric fuel pump as well. Ive never had a failure with a dura lift, but I like to travel and I really hate breakdowns so I built in a redundancy to where I would always have an installed backup pump, the tricky part is switching the tanks and then remenbering to switch the pumps over ( you'd be shocked at how far you can run one of these things with no lift pump ( really you only need it for going up steep hills, I've driven all teh way to the city with the fuel pump off on a number of occasions

 

[sle2115]

I used Moeller 4 way valves been in about 4 years or so now. Remember to grab the things evenly and turn from the center on any valve ( yes it can be done blindly with one hand )
I have my tanks each setup on their own electric fuel pump as well. Ive never had a failure with a dura lift, but I like to travel and I really hate breakdowns so I built in a redundancy to where I would always have an installed backup pump, the tricky part is switching the tanks and then remenbering to switch the pumps over ( you'd be shocked at how far you can run one of these things with no lift pump ( really you only need it for going up steep hills, I've driven all teh way to the city with the fuel pump off on a number of occasions

Where did you purchase the valves...I don't see purchasing abilities on the site...but if you have them and they are working for you, good enough for me! I was under it tonight doing some "planning"...gotta make a 200 road trip Wednesday and sure would like to have a working fuel guage...I don't drive mine long distances enough to know mileage...I'll just keep it full!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

What? I guess there's always a lot of freak things in any application, but I have yet to have any issues with the valves. Before I got a commuter car, id switch tanks 3+ times a week.

Just to be certain everyone understands which valves cause problems, it is the double-ball valves that are capable of switching both DRAW and RETURN at the same time that are subject to snap off.

The single-ball 3- and 4-port manual valves almost never have any problems.

 

[sle2115]

Just to be certain everyone understands which valves cause problems, it is the double-ball valves that are capable of switching both DRAW and RETURN at the same time that are subject to snap off.

The single-ball 3- and 4-port manual valves almost never have any problems.

And I am planning to go the single valve (using two 4 port valve) route.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Where did you purchase the valves...I don't see purchasing abilities on the site...but if you have them and they are working for you, good enough for me! I was under it tonight doing some "planning"...gotta make a 200 road trip Wednesday and sure would like to have a working fuel guage...I don't drive mine long distances enough to know mileage...I'll just keep it full!

This should get you pointed in the right direction :

http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Fuel-Four-Way-Valve-Brass/dp/B000MTI18M/ref=pd_sbs_sg_7

There are a bejillion choices at Amazon.

 

[sle2115]

Got it! Thanks!

 

[sle2115]

Does anyone know the wire color codes on the fuel valve...looks to be 5 wires which makes sense, but which is which? I know there is a reversing positive/negative that controls the motor, and then the other three should be gauge, front tank level sensor and rear tank level sensor. There are also two wires going to each sensor, I assume one to ground, the other to the fuel valve. I have a switch I'm going to go ahead and wire them for my manual valve install. I got a switch that is off in the middle, the on each direction, so I can look at each tank, and then I'll put in an aux gauge for an in bed tank, so I can just switch the gauges in dash off, keep me from forgetting to watch the other one! lol Just need to determine which wires to remove from the fuel valve and go from there.

 

[zloetakoe]

Does anyone know the wire color codes on the fuel valve...looks to be 5 wires which makes sense, but which is which? I know there is a reversing positive/negative that controls the motor, and then the other three should be gauge, front tank level sensor and rear tank level sensor. There are also two wires going to each sensor, I assume one to ground, the other to the fuel valve. I have a switch I'm going to go ahead and wire them for my manual valve install. I got a switch that is off in the middle, the on each direction, so I can look at each tank, and then I'll put in an aux gauge for an in bed tank, so I can just switch the gauges in dash off, keep me from forgetting to watch the other one! lol Just need to determine which wires to remove from the fuel valve and go from there.

sle2115! Hey man! I'm looking into doing the same thing. What a pain. Did you ever get the fuel wiring figured out? Right now my front tank shows 150% full (pegged at above full) and the rear is accurate. BUT the front will not even get fuel to the engine when I flip it to the front tank, it only takes about 30 seconds and I get the old "fuel filter" message lighting up on the dash.

How exactly does one mount these manual switches near the seat? Anyone have any pictures?

Last question, what did everyone do for fuel lines? Was anyone able to salvage the original metal lines that come from the tanks to the selector valve? or do those need to be cut and rubber hosing clamped onto them??? Very confused about that aspect of the project.

Thanks for any help!!!! Getting ready to buy my valves tonight.

 

[franklin2]

yellow/white wire goes up and feeds the fuel gauge in the dash.

darkblue/yellow wire comes from the front tank sending unit

yellow/lightblue wire comes from the rear tank sending unit

orange and brown/white are the valve motor wires.