Just purchased F250 6.9

[rlb245]

When he turns the key shouldn't he here several clicks? It is my understanding that the system should cycle on and off based on the resistive load. If it doesn't cycle he might have a bad relay do to carbon build up on the contacts

 

[Greg5OH]

quickest/cheapest easiest solution i found to fix water from leakin onto the intake
get one of those foam inulation tube for copper pipes and stick it onto the rail there. It wraps under the cowl area so it naturally forms a gutter for water to collect and run off the sides.

 

[TahoeTom]

The rubber strip running the length of the cowl is the hood/cowl seal. After 25 years they get dry and cracked. LMC Truck has them for $30. There should be a rubber washer under the bolt holding the air filter housing also. The disconnected wire on your GP relay is the wire that activates the relay. The small wire on the opposite side should be a ground. On an original harness the plus wire is purple. It is energized by the glow plug controller located at the rear of the drivers side head, threaded into the water jacket. The 6.9 controller likes to fail in the on mode and burn out glow plugs. If your system is energizing now maybe the GP relay is hooked up opposite, with the ground terminal used as a plus. I don't know if the relay could be grounded by the mounting screws. Check with a test light to see where power is. If you run a jumper to the disconnected terminal the glow plugs should energize if the wiring hasn't been altered. That is how lots of 6.9 owners bypass the controller and run glow plugs off a push button. On your 7.3 the GP controller is a different solid state design, and less prone to the failure of the 6.9 type.

 

[Baytonia]

Thanks for the response. What you said makes sense, right now when I turn the key to the on position, I get wait light on, and power to the plugs, just the way it is hooked up in the pic with only one wire connected. I had 3 bad GP's.

 

[Baytonia]

I couldn't wait, grabbed the flash light and went out in the dark to check the relay. the - side is the post missing the wire. I then connected my test light to the side of the relay marked (S) which has the wire connected. As soon as I turn on the key I have power at that post, which yesterday I had power to the GP's. So I guess your right, the relay is grounded through the mounting bolts. So now the question is will the relay cycle from the controller? How can it if the wire coming from the relay is disconnected? If the relay is stuck on, why arnt all the GP's burnt out and swollen in the heads? The old man said the truck ran this way the entire time he had it? The problem was it was getting harder to start till one day he had a no start condition. I feel it was because 3 GP's are bad. I think for now just to see if it will run, I will buy 3 GP's and install them with the 5 that are good. Eiter some one came behind his back and rewired or, well I don't see how the relay will turn off with out the controller disconnecting the ground to shout it off. Like it is now it should be on all the time, but why arnt all the GP's burnt?

Also thanks for the advice on the seals for the cowl.

 

[Baytonia]

If I am going to try to start it this weekend, I need to get this figured out by Friday.

 

[TahoeTom]

If the wait to start light comes on for say 10 or 15 seconds and then goes out your controller is probably working. It is supplying power to the relay through the one connected wire. The wire to the wait to start lamp should be the small one connected to the terminal with the two large orange wires. Those wires go to each glow plug bank. There is a connector before the engine on the entire GP harness. The two large orange wires carry a lot of current and that connector can overheat and melt. Corrosion at that connector can cause a loss of current to the glow plugs also. The connector is a weak link in the system.

 

[Baytonia]

Trying to identify a part

I found this part lying next to a glow plug. I have no idea where it came from?

 

[pastorjeep]

Have you been able to crank the motor over with the starter?

 

[Baytonia]

I have been working a customers car and not been able to touch my truck. Then we had reservations at Pegon Forg and will be here till Sunday. I will then drain the diesel out the crankcase then attempt to crank it.

 

[seawalkersee]

Ill chime in on this too. First, get a jack stand and put it under the damper of the 7.3. They are heavy pigs. Second, definately follow the link or FAQ or whatever to do the 7.3 GP swap. Do NOT use any plugs other than Breu and you will have a year of service free starts. Lastly, and i hope I am wrong, but I think you will need an IP and probably injectors. Once that is done, you will be surprised.

SWS

 

[Baytonia]

Update on the 6.9

I devoted most the day to the 6.9 to see if it would run. Pruged all the fluids that were put in it to soak and free it. Reinstalled the old GP's, Changed the oil & filter, fuel filter, primed the fuel filter, and oil filter. Put fresh fuel into an aux tank, didn't trust the trucks tanks after 2 years of sitting.
I was able to bleed the fuel filter housing shrewder valve, but could not get good fuel out the steel output line from the fuel housing going to the input to the IP.
I am going to get some clear line to make sure the fuel pump is sucking from the aux tank I filled the new filter and it took a lot of fuel to fill it, I was wondering if the fuel out the shrouder valve was from the fuel filter and not the aux tank? But, the old fuel filter was funky looking, it had some water in it. But I opened the output fuel line at the fuel filter housing, and I did not get the fuel shooting out while cranking that I should have, I did finally get it at the shrouder valve.
The inj pump is not providing fuel, I was wondering if there was a filter in it also. If not I as Seawalkersee stated the IP is bad. Following the steel input fuel line to the IP, looks like there may be a filter in the IP? Looks like you would have to pull the IP to get to it?
Another question if you look at the pic of the IP the 2 bottom wires have voltage with key on while cranking. The top wire (yellow) has no power ever, is this correct? I do not have my GP's connected because 3 of them are bad and I saw no need, I used a little starting fluid as a starting agent to replace GP. If the eng ran, then I was going to buy all new GP's, but if I have to swap this eng with the 7.3 those GP's are different, so I didn't want to waste more money.
So I guess my question is do I have power at the IP at the correct place to allow fuel flow? And is there a IP filter that I should replace?
It's looking like I should quit and just swap in the 7.3 but I see a lot of different and extra wires that look like the swap may be a real pain???

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[riotwarrior]

NO filter in IP that I am aware of.

the power to the FSS fuel stop solenoid is the connector closest to the radiator the other one is the cold advance solenoid.

So long as that solenoid closest to rad clicks that indicates it is getting power and hopefully functioning.

How long have you attempted cranking? It could be a bad lift pump? remove the line to the filter and crank..is there fuel puking out?

Do you have a small lower pressure electric that you can FEED the fuel to the fuel filter with? If so that helps immensely in diagnosing issues such as you are having.

Don't give up on it yet. there is a bit more to do prior to going that swap route.

Hope that helps

Al

 

[pastorjeep]

Baytonia, I found my truck sitting under a tree after almost five years. The starter was in the floor and the air breather in the bed. So much sap had turned the truck green you couldn't see through the windows. Mice had filled the intake with debris. It took two hours of charging batteries and cranking (that was after hours of cleaning putting on a starter and vacuuming out the intake manifold) to finally build up fuel pressure in the whole fuel system and then what do you know the beast came to life Don't give up yet, your going to get her going!

 

[Baytonia]

Thanks guys, the advice really helped, gave me more will to go on. I'm not going to quit, I have learned more thanks to all of you who posted, ill try again later. One thing, I don't remember hearing a click from the IP, I hear a click from the fender relay, but never from the IP, are you saying it should click?