Just purchased F250 6.9

83ford

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83ford,

When do you expect to have your swap complete? I would like to hear how it went. I have questions like do you pull eng and trans together? Do you remove any panels other than the hood?

truefully I didn't do the swap.but I do know that only the hood was takin off.the swap its self is done and I can drive the truck I had to get oil pressure fixed cause it was at 90 psi at idle.the swap was actual done when I was 13.im 15 now.i did help pull the engine and we pulled it by its self.the only hard part is the wireing.make shure you get the 7.3 harness and youll have to splice it into the 6.9 harness atleast that's what we are doing.
 

Baytonia

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UPDATE!!!!!! UPDATE!!!!!!

UPDATE..... I did what TOWCAT told me to do and it WORKED!!!!!! I am so happy, water shot out just like he said using the pry bar. I then hit the starter and it looked like niagra falls...... My truck beside it got soaking wet. The mosqutoes were eating me up so it covered the motor with a rug, closed the hood and left. This is a awesome site, I could have never done this alone....You guys are awesome, especially TOWCAT, I did it like he said. Now, my question is what next?? Should I spray some PB blast in the glow plug holes and let it soak??? should I test all the glow plugs while I have then out? Should I leave the old oil and filter in it and let it warm up before I change it? Can I put water in the radiator, I didn't see antifreeze in the neck? Can I put the fuel in the tank, been sitting 2 years with the caps on tight, should I rig a aux tank to fire it off? Some many questions,....... I am so happy I don't know what to do.... A Thankyou for everyone who cared enough to give me advice. Also should I try to do a compression test before I run it? I got a good feeling about this truck....I feel the motor will be fine. The old man told me it ran perfect. Oh one more thing....... The problem with the truck originally was it cranked but would not start. He said it took longer and longer for the wait light to come on, then finally I would not come on any more. I looked at the GP relay on the fender and the wire on the small post toward the engine is missing. I see a hot wire and a ground wire going from the battery on the driver side through the firewall, it looks like the hot wire has an inline fuse. I don't know how to troubleshoot that? I think someone rigged the glow plug system, so I can't begin to start it now anyway, until I troubleshoot it. HELP once again.....
 
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Oog

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Congratulations! Fog all the cylinders with wd-40 over the next week or so turning it over daily. What this will do is allow the wd to work on all the cylinders, on the entire cylinder. The daily turning over will also help jar....finagle.........hmm.....persuade the rings to unfreeze. Change your oil after doing thr wd40 trick, water may have gotten in the oil. Sounds like glow plugs are shot. Use berus. Not autolites.
 

towcat

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i usually use ATF squirted into the GP holes to lube up the cylinders. do bear in mind, any petroleum product you put into the cyls is seen as fuel by a diesel. fill with caution or you may have a runaway for a few moments. if nothing else, it will get the fuel filter primed as it takes off.:eek:
 

Baytonia

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I wish you could have seen the water fly out of it. I should of had it taped. But what about all my questions? :)
 

wildman7798

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UPDATE..... Should I leave the old oil and filter in it and let it warm up before I change it? Can I put water in the radiator, I didn't see antifreeze in the neck? Can I put the fuel in the tank, been sitting 2 years with the caps on tight, should I rig a aux tank to fire it off? .

Congrats on the progress.... I can't say this was the best way but it worked for me, my truck had been off the road for 9 years in the damp hi moisture Pacific Northwest. I got it to fire with the old oil and ran it about 15 minutes just to see if everything was sealing and working drove it about 2 miles then did all the service stuff. Glow plugs, lines, caps, fuel filter, coolant update. I didn't want to spend the money and time until I was sure I had a good base to start with, good oil pressure, no knocking, ect. My fuel was in for 9 years, after I got all the service work done my first stop was 12 gallons of fresh fuel in each tank. She has been good to go since then. Good luck, looking to hear more.
 

Baytonia

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I'm gonna take my time and apply the trans fluid and give it a chance to work. Still getting the 7.3 this weekend. I may still need it if not I will store it for now.
 

Baytonia

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Ok got it towed to the house. I pulled the engine oil pan drain plug and it must of had about 2 guarts or more of water drain out. The water was clean then came the oil it was black but towards the end thick that's to be expected I guess. I want to fill the oil pan with kerosene and let it soak to clean it or should I use mineral spirits ? Then put the trans fluid in the glow plug openings and let it sit 24 hours. Am I on the right track here ?
 

riotwarrior

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Ok got it towed to the house. I pulled the engine oil pan drain plug and it must of had about 2 guarts or more of water drain out. The water was clean then came the oil it was black but towards the end thick that's to be expected I guess. I want to fill the oil pan with kerosene and let it soak to clean it or should I use mineral spirits ? Then put the trans fluid in the glow plug openings and let it sit 24 hours. Am I on the right track here ?

WELCOME TO OB the best place for info on these old trucks.

As for your dilemma ....let me get this right... oil pan completely drained, right? If so, so long as you are only BARING it over and NOT running it yer likely safe with Kereosene or mineral spirits but I''d only put in a couple quarts, then not bar over and let sit for a while and then drain, this just gets rid of H2O in pan...then add fresh cheap oil and use that to displace any remaining H2O. May as well throw on a new filter too!

ATF or WD or PB or any light oil down GP holes is fine, then bar over engine, always leave it in a different spot...in other words don't just stop at the same location, the idea is to move oil around in the cyl and park engine clocked differently. Take a sharpie and mark the harmonic and never stop it in same place this oils each cyl evenly across the board.

After a week or so of doing this 1 to 2 times a day morning and night are good, leave GP's out and spin with starter and BLOW out all the oil

Ya new GP's would be a great idea...IIRC ZD1 are the 6nine GP as an overall check of GP harness and components. There should be write ups in the tech section, don't forget to check out the FAQ section too

Once you can test fire it warm it up and then do the compression test if you can, this will tell you a lot about the engines overall condition especially after what you have gone through with it. The idea of running it first gets oil off rings and allows you a true reading not a wet reading.

As for the rest, it will come in time...plenty to read here and lots of help...

Again Welcome to OB

Al
 

leswhitt

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Ok got it towed to the house. I pulled the engine oil pan drain plug and it must of had about 2 guarts or more of water drain out. The water was clean then came the oil it was black but towards the end thick that's to be expected I guess. I want to fill the oil pan with kerosene and let it soak to clean it or should I use mineral spirits ? Then put the trans fluid in the glow plug openings and let it sit 24 hours. Am I on the right track here ?

I wouldn't bother with the kerosene or mineral spirits, the truck sat so long that the water separated and went to the bottom of the pan, i.e. 2 quarts of clean water coming out first. If anything, leave the drain plug off so that any remaining residue can evaporate and then after a day or so, put the drain back in and fill her up. After you have it running, check the dipstick and make sure it doesn't look milky. If not, shorten your next oil change interval to 1,500 miles or so and then you'll be good to go.
 
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