Baytonia
Full Access Member
That's the point I don't know how much a difference it would make. My mind is telling me to go as suggested, leave the trans and TC in place. Especially since so many have done it that way.
Just purchased F250 6.9
- Thread starter Baytonia
- Start date
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Front Clip Removal Problem
I was just about ready to pull the front clip and one of the bolts (small one between the door and fender) is just spinning. Really no room to get in there and cut the head, and it is deeply recessed, how do we get that bolt out, its the only one I have left. I know the bolt goes through a clip with a nut on the end, the clip must have split and now the bolt just spins, just no room to work with it. I am wondering if you can access the clip from the opposite side some how?
I was just about ready to pull the front clip and one of the bolts (small one between the door and fender) is just spinning. Really no room to get in there and cut the head, and it is deeply recessed, how do we get that bolt out, its the only one I have left. I know the bolt goes through a clip with a nut on the end, the clip must have split and now the bolt just spins, just no room to work with it. I am wondering if you can access the clip from the opposite side some how?
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Come on guys, I know some have had this problem, looking for a quick solution here. I am going to pull the kick panel and see if I can reach the clip that way, other than that I think ill have to cut a hole in the wheel well apron. Even then I don't know if it will allow access.
ToughOldFord
The Cold Glow-Plug
Pull the inner fender out. IIRC there's some access to that clip coming through the backside:
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Baytonia
Full Access Member
ok thanks. Can I get it through the kick panel? Or is it blocked out I cant see from your pic.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Looking closer it looks like the cab is completely sealed. Looks like more wasted time pulling the inner fender. Wish I could just cut it off.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Front Clip Off
Well looks like I can see some day light here. I have never pulled the clip to swap an engine so Ill have to see how I feel at the end. It is a lot of extra work, Overall not too bad, but more work than if you just pull the Rad & fan, since my truck is 30 years old some bolts were tough but I over came it. Thanks to those who provided advice, that helped a lot. Now I have to decide if I am going to pull with trans attached or drop it under the truck. I know I am dropping the TC tomorrow, I was looking at the awkward shape and thinking how to support it. Well all for today, its chow time.
Well looks like I can see some day light here. I have never pulled the clip to swap an engine so Ill have to see how I feel at the end. It is a lot of extra work, Overall not too bad, but more work than if you just pull the Rad & fan, since my truck is 30 years old some bolts were tough but I over came it. Thanks to those who provided advice, that helped a lot. Now I have to decide if I am going to pull with trans attached or drop it under the truck. I know I am dropping the TC tomorrow, I was looking at the awkward shape and thinking how to support it. Well all for today, its chow time.
Attachments
ToughOldFord
The Cold Glow-Plug
Congrats on the progress! You're right, it is quite a bit of work to do it this way, but at least you'll have easy access to everything on the engine to get it out and put the new one in.
Here's a tip, when you put it back together put anti-seize on all the bolts/nuts so if you ever have to do it again it'll be easier to tear down.
Here's a tip, when you put it back together put anti-seize on all the bolts/nuts so if you ever have to do it again it'll be easier to tear down.
Well long time no read this thread.
I just went through it again, not sure whats going on but couple things do come to mind.
You may at this point feel that the clip removal is more difficult, however in time you'll appreciate it more than you can imagine. The ease and clear access is what that's about. Ya some bolts are hard however with practice, doing it this way is only a few more bolts than the over the rad support method. Believe me you'll come to appreciate this method just based on access and visibility alone! Big engines in tight compartments make for hard to see/reach things...this just makes it so easy
I read you are going to re use the DMF from 7.3 with the 4sp? If you are the clutch disk wont work correctly as they are completely different spline count and diameter of shaft too.
You need to use the 6.9 flywheel and clutch with your 4sp
Someone said not to do the front seal now cause it can be done in the truck...
look at it now, and consider how much harder it would be to do in the truck, inclusive of getting pan dropped and resealed. Something to consider!
Seems your on your way quite well with the swap. I'd retain the entire 7.3 fuel system and GP system myself if it was me adapting it to the new home as required.
Keep up the good work and all the pics...
Al
I just went through it again, not sure whats going on but couple things do come to mind.
You may at this point feel that the clip removal is more difficult, however in time you'll appreciate it more than you can imagine. The ease and clear access is what that's about. Ya some bolts are hard however with practice, doing it this way is only a few more bolts than the over the rad support method. Believe me you'll come to appreciate this method just based on access and visibility alone! Big engines in tight compartments make for hard to see/reach things...this just makes it so easy
I read you are going to re use the DMF from 7.3 with the 4sp? If you are the clutch disk wont work correctly as they are completely different spline count and diameter of shaft too.
You need to use the 6.9 flywheel and clutch with your 4sp
Someone said not to do the front seal now cause it can be done in the truck...
look at it now, and consider how much harder it would be to do in the truck, inclusive of getting pan dropped and resealed. Something to consider!Seems your on your way quite well with the swap. I'd retain the entire 7.3 fuel system and GP system myself if it was me adapting it to the new home as required.
Keep up the good work and all the pics...
Al
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Great recommendations, I feel I will head in those directions. Had many errands to run today, will start tomorrow on the next phase. I have decided how to proceed which I think will be the easiest method for me working by myself.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Pulled the 6.9 out today
Well guys the verdict is in, is it worth taking the extra time to pull the clip for an eng removal???? Hell Ya!! I am glad I did as many recommended. Made it so nice not to have to climb or reach over during the process, plus my truck is old, it had pine needles in the corners and opening, now you can really get into easy cleaning while it is apart, and access areas that are normally sealed off.
Now the real fun starts, got to pull flywheel off 6.9 and put on 7.3, also clutch and PP. You know the next thought is can I reuse the clutch and PP? Well I will have to take a close look at it, my gut tells me replace it. Ill pull it tonight after dinner and make the call. I think a medium compromise would be to replace clutch, PP, TOB, and keep the flywheel. Will that be ok? I hear to replace the entire setup is like $500.00?
Give me some feedback on that, some say resurface or replace like brake rotors. The last PP I had resurfaced changed the engagement of the pedal the distance was shorter due to less material on the PP, at least that was my thought after test driving it. Also what is the best brand to go with? Hope I can get it back in as easy as it came out. All for now....
Well guys the verdict is in, is it worth taking the extra time to pull the clip for an eng removal???? Hell Ya!! I am glad I did as many recommended. Made it so nice not to have to climb or reach over during the process, plus my truck is old, it had pine needles in the corners and opening, now you can really get into easy cleaning while it is apart, and access areas that are normally sealed off.
Now the real fun starts, got to pull flywheel off 6.9 and put on 7.3, also clutch and PP. You know the next thought is can I reuse the clutch and PP? Well I will have to take a close look at it, my gut tells me replace it. Ill pull it tonight after dinner and make the call. I think a medium compromise would be to replace clutch, PP, TOB, and keep the flywheel. Will that be ok? I hear to replace the entire setup is like $500.00?
Give me some feedback on that, some say resurface or replace like brake rotors. The last PP I had resurfaced changed the engagement of the pedal the distance was shorter due to less material on the PP, at least that was my thought after test driving it. Also what is the best brand to go with? Hope I can get it back in as easy as it came out. All for now....
Attachments
Looks like the oil cooler was left behind. On the motor mounts, remove the two nuts under the crossmember and install the mounts on the new engine. I think this needs to be done before installing the oil cooler. The brackets on the frame have slots to help line up the mounts for installation. Leave off the oil filter and starter motor until engine is installed.
Edit: The motor mounts and the brackets that attach to the block are side specific. The drivers side have a notch in the front.
Edit: The motor mounts and the brackets that attach to the block are side specific. The drivers side have a notch in the front.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Ya I disconnected from the block so I would not have to lift the motor too high to clear the holes in the cross member, so I pulled the cooler cause it would not clear the mount. I am hoping when it goes back in it will make it easier to spline.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Should do a new pilot bushing/bearing.
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Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
Shadetreemechanic
Full Access Member
Put new o rings in that oil cooler while it is laying there. It will never be easier than right now.
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