pastorjeep
Full Access Member
good looking engine, great find.
Just purchased F250 6.9
- Thread starter Baytonia
- Start date
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
I think you are on the right track. "valve covers, oil pan, rear main, oil cooler" is what I would do. 
Leave the heads on. Just get it running. You always have the 6.9 to rebuild if you want. 
If you want to do quick and dirty, just swap the 6.9 glow plug system over to the 7.3. The 7.3 GP system is an upgrade. It just depends on your time. Many have added/changed to a manual bypass system with a push button on the dash. I actually prefer mine like this.
The fuel line return system is slightly different too. The 7.3 uses slightly bigger hose on the caps. So I'm thinking you might want to reuse the fuel return system off the 6.9.
The fuel filter system is different too. The 6.9 actually has a finer filter! The stock 7.3 fuel filter has a water blocking element in it with a Water In Fuel detector in the base. The 6.9 has a separate Water Separator located on the drivers side of the firewall.
Many have bypassed this WS and "upgraded" to the 7.3 Filter head as the WS was prone to air intrusion. Mel did a Tech article on cleaning it up.
The piece on the 7.3 pump you were wondering about is called the FIPL or Fuel Injection Pump Lever. It is essentially a Throttle Position Sensor. It is used to determine when the E4OD automatic transmission should shift. You can safely remove it. I think it has two T17 Torx bolts holding it in. Then there is a little collar that comes off. There are two little hex set screws that need to be loosened. Or just leave it on. I would take it off.
BTW, there is a filter on the IP. Its in the cone shaped piece where the fuel enters the pump. To access the filter, you will need to undo the locking tab with a hex key and then un-thread the cone piece from the IP. Use a 3/4" wrench. Have this end pointing up so pieces don't fall out. Pull the cone piece off slowly. Behold, the screen is revealed. If the fuel filter was doing its job, the filter should be clean. The filter just snaps onto the regulator assembly. If you just try and pull the screen up, chances are you will pull the regulator assembly off. That's ok, the regulator assembly has an alignment dowel and the cone piece holds it all in place. Behind the regulator assembly, is the transfer pump. You will see the vanes. Check to see if they are gunked up. If it's all good put it back together! Do this only in clean dust free environment. Don't touch the vanes with your bare fingers. Use nitril gloves. Tolerances in these IPs is VERY close. It is not in the thousandth of an inch, it is in the millionth of an inch! That is why the fuel filter has a micron rating.
Once you have it all together follow seawalkersee's advice with the starting fluid to bleed it and fire it. Save your glow plugs and battery for when the system is bled. Do not plug in your engine or warm it up prior to using starting fluid. Use starting fluid/ether only on a cold engine with glow plugs disconnected.
Leave the heads on. Just get it running. You always have the 6.9 to rebuild if you want. If you want to do quick and dirty, just swap the 6.9 glow plug system over to the 7.3. The 7.3 GP system is an upgrade. It just depends on your time. Many have added/changed to a manual bypass system with a push button on the dash. I actually prefer mine like this.
The fuel line return system is slightly different too. The 7.3 uses slightly bigger hose on the caps. So I'm thinking you might want to reuse the fuel return system off the 6.9.
The fuel filter system is different too. The 6.9 actually has a finer filter! The stock 7.3 fuel filter has a water blocking element in it with a Water In Fuel detector in the base. The 6.9 has a separate Water Separator located on the drivers side of the firewall.
Many have bypassed this WS and "upgraded" to the 7.3 Filter head as the WS was prone to air intrusion. Mel did a Tech article on cleaning it up.
The piece on the 7.3 pump you were wondering about is called the FIPL or Fuel Injection Pump Lever. It is essentially a Throttle Position Sensor. It is used to determine when the E4OD automatic transmission should shift. You can safely remove it. I think it has two T17 Torx bolts holding it in. Then there is a little collar that comes off. There are two little hex set screws that need to be loosened. Or just leave it on. I would take it off.
BTW, there is a filter on the IP. Its in the cone shaped piece where the fuel enters the pump. To access the filter, you will need to undo the locking tab with a hex key and then un-thread the cone piece from the IP. Use a 3/4" wrench. Have this end pointing up so pieces don't fall out. Pull the cone piece off slowly. Behold, the screen is revealed. If the fuel filter was doing its job, the filter should be clean. The filter just snaps onto the regulator assembly. If you just try and pull the screen up, chances are you will pull the regulator assembly off. That's ok, the regulator assembly has an alignment dowel and the cone piece holds it all in place. Behind the regulator assembly, is the transfer pump. You will see the vanes. Check to see if they are gunked up. If it's all good put it back together! Do this only in clean dust free environment. Don't touch the vanes with your bare fingers. Use nitril gloves. Tolerances in these IPs is VERY close. It is not in the thousandth of an inch, it is in the millionth of an inch! That is why the fuel filter has a micron rating.
Once you have it all together follow seawalkersee's advice with the starting fluid to bleed it and fire it. Save your glow plugs and battery for when the system is bled. Do not plug in your engine or warm it up prior to using starting fluid. Use starting fluid/ether only on a cold engine with glow plugs disconnected.
idijack
Registered User
If the front seal is dry I wouldn't mess with it or the heads. If the valley pan is dry don't mess with it either. All of these can be done in the truck if they start leaking later.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Thanks for the advice guys, I was thinking the exact comments. I am still soaking the valve covers, looking at them in the tank the idea came to me to polish them. Has anyone polished their valve covers? They look like they would look great polished then clear coated. Just something different.
One more issue, I need to use the clutch, flywheel ect. from the 6.9, is there anything I need to know about swapping them out? I thought I read where someone had said you will experience vibration issues when switching flywheels.
One more issue, I need to use the clutch, flywheel ect. from the 6.9, is there anything I need to know about swapping them out? I thought I read where someone had said you will experience vibration issues when switching flywheels.
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
I went the other way, I put a 7.3 Dual Mass flywheel and clutch on my 6.9. No problems other than the DMF is almost toast.
My understanding is that the engine is balanced at the crankshaft. If I'm wrong someone please correct me. As long as you use the correct Harmonic Damper for the crankshaft, you should be ok.
My understanding is that the engine is balanced at the crankshaft. If I'm wrong someone please correct me. As long as you use the correct Harmonic Damper for the crankshaft, you should be ok.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Great, I hope to have it all swapped by the end of the weekend, its getting cold here.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
I'm Ready to get started again!!!!
I have one big question, what is the best way to pull the engine??? This is a 4 speed with 4wd.
My concern is if the trans is left in, how hard will it be to mate the engine back onto the shaft of the trans? I also looked under the truck and it don't look like fun pulling the trans with the transfer attached.
This is the only part of this project I am really unsure of. I have my forklift so I am easily able to lift the engine as high as needed. I'm sure many have done this, but I really could not find the preferred method. I did see some recommend pulling the clip, I do have a service manual and it states to pull the radiator and shroud, raise eng, support trans and pull the eng forward and up.
I just feel it will be a nightmare to put back in.
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Well guys I am back. Been out of town and busy working on everybody else's stuff. Got the 250 pulled into my extension bay shop and will be yanking it over the holiday. I have one big question, what is the best way to pull the engine??? This is a 4 speed with 4wd.
My concern is if the trans is left in, how hard will it be to mate the engine back onto the shaft of the trans? I also looked under the truck and it don't look like fun pulling the trans with the transfer attached.
This is the only part of this project I am really unsure of. I have my forklift so I am easily able to lift the engine as high as needed. I'm sure many have done this, but I really could not find the preferred method. I did see some recommend pulling the clip, I do have a service manual and it states to pull the radiator and shroud, raise eng, support trans and pull the eng forward and up.
I just feel it will be a nightmare to put back in.
idijack
Registered User
I just did one in the dirt with a cherry picker with out pulling the hood it wasn't bad . Leave the oil filter off ,make sure you don't have any wires between the motor and trans. crank pulley needs to come off.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Idijack was this a 4 speed? And did you leave the trans in place? An auto would be much easier because you don't have to pull forward as much to clear the shaft before you start the lift I never thoughtI would have to pull the crank pully what did it hit?
idijack
Registered User
It. Was a 5 speed and I just chained up in frame
Baytonia
Full Access Member
That's good to know, I feel better now. How difficult a time did you have splining in the trans to the fly wheel? That's my biggest concern?
bbjordan
Snow Monkey
Put the transmission in neutral. (block the wheels of course) Taking off the clutch slave cylinder or fork push rod helps. You won't have to fight the pressure plate. Make sure as you are mating the engine and trans, that the gap between them is the same all the way around. I should go together easily. Sometimes you need to jiggle it a bit. Do not force it! If it doesn't want to go, turn the crankshaft over a few degrees and try again. I've done this a few time all by myself. Sometimes it takes minutes...sometimes hours. Be patient and gentle. Having a helpers is good to make sure of alignment, keeping stuff out of the way, etc.
Good luck!
Good luck!
ToughOldFord
The Cold Glow-Plug
Congrats on the purchase! The reason that 6.9 IP was dry was because as you stated the FSS wasn't getting any power.
I would have run that engine before doing the compression check, once the rings warmed up and reseated you probably would have gotten a lot of compression back.
Here's the cowl seal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370873054028?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I would have run that engine before doing the compression check, once the rings warmed up and reseated you probably would have gotten a lot of compression back.
Here's the cowl seal:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/370873054028?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Well thanks for the advice, I will treat it like any other eng swap with a manual trans left in, only this is a big heavy motor to move around, Ill see how it goes. The main plus I have is the fork lift with unlimited lift height and weight capability. Ill give the updates once I have it out. That transfer attached makes a big difference, if it were not for that I would pull it as a unit.
ToughOldFord
The Cold Glow-Plug
If it makes that much difference, the TC is an easy pull.
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