Yes turn key on to run position..go out to pump, remove wire listen for click install wire listen for click, I'll post a short video tomorrow for demonstration purposes!
Al
Just purchased F250 6.9
- Thread starter Baytonia
- Start date
Yes turn key on to run position..go out to pump, remove wire listen for click install wire listen for click, I'll post a short video tomorrow for demonstration purposes!
Al
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Replacing IP from 6.9 to 7.3
Ha Guys,
I determined the IP was not sending fuel to the injectors. I have pulled the pump as you see in the pic. Now my problem is the 7.3 pump has a connection on the side that the 6.9 does not have.
It appears to me like a TP sensor???? I don't know what it is.....
My question is can I use this pump on the 6.9, if so what do I need to do the make it work. I have stopped removing the IP from the 7.3 engine until I know how to connect the solenoid.
Would it be easier to get a new pump? Just swap engines? Get this one rebuilt? I am hoping someone says just connect a couple of wires here...and the 7.3 pump will work fine.
Ha Guys,
I determined the IP was not sending fuel to the injectors. I have pulled the pump as you see in the pic. Now my problem is the 7.3 pump has a connection on the side that the 6.9 does not have.
It appears to me like a TP sensor???? I don't know what it is.....
My question is can I use this pump on the 6.9, if so what do I need to do the make it work. I have stopped removing the IP from the 7.3 engine until I know how to connect the solenoid.
Would it be easier to get a new pump? Just swap engines? Get this one rebuilt? I am hoping someone says just connect a couple of wires here...and the 7.3 pump will work fine.
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darkbluefoxbody2
Registered User
It will work fine, the TPS!!! is not really but its for the E4od on the 7.3, your other pump doesn't have it so I'm assuming its a 4 speed. Bolt on and go!
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Oh great!!!! I need some good news, do I need to remove the injectors to match the set, or are the 6.9 injectors OK to keep in place?
Baytonia
Full Access Member
And yes it is a 4 speed, 4WD.
darkbluefoxbody2
Registered User
You be fine, used is used so I'd bolt it all in and run it. Injectors are all close enough to make it run. Pump will MAYBE put out a little more but they all run if working at all. 7.3 return line is different but just swap your 6.9 stuff over, and charge batteries!!!!
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Removed 7.3 Pump and Injectors for the 6.9
Well guys im through for the night. I pulled the IP and the inj's on the 7.3. My thought was to detail and re-gasket the 7.3 all that stuff needed pulling anyway. I just touched the GP harness connectors and they just fell apart. Well since I have the inj's and pump out, what is the recommended way to clean them. I know to spray and clean the outer surface, but can you run some type of cleaner through the inj's? And what about the pump, I had read that our pumps have built in fuel pumps in them also that go with the lift pump.
After doing the 6.9 the 7.3 was like a breeze. The more I do the more I see how easy our motors are to work on. I just cant wait for the initial start and run. I know its coming, just to hear the sound of that diesel, cant wait....
I will start again in the morning, its almost 11:00 pm here. I will take some time to do some cleaning of the motor since it is apart, maybe throw some paint on it, I don't know we will see.
Well guys im through for the night. I pulled the IP and the inj's on the 7.3. My thought was to detail and re-gasket the 7.3 all that stuff needed pulling anyway. I just touched the GP harness connectors and they just fell apart. Well since I have the inj's and pump out, what is the recommended way to clean them. I know to spray and clean the outer surface, but can you run some type of cleaner through the inj's? And what about the pump, I had read that our pumps have built in fuel pumps in them also that go with the lift pump.
After doing the 6.9 the 7.3 was like a breeze. The more I do the more I see how easy our motors are to work on. I just cant wait for the initial start and run. I know its coming, just to hear the sound of that diesel, cant wait....
I will start again in the morning, its almost 11:00 pm here. I will take some time to do some cleaning of the motor since it is apart, maybe throw some paint on it, I don't know we will see.
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Baytonia
Full Access Member
Ya I pulled my batt's and they are already 100% for tomorrow. Looks like I will be getting new lines for the inj tomorrow, I heard NAPA has them. I would like some clear one to see what's happening with the fuel.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
When I took this pump off it still had fresh fuel in it. That made me think one could prime the pump after remounting it. The pump on the 6.9 was dry, there was fuel in the inlet line to the pump but not in the pump. I really think that pump is clogged up. That inj line is different also running to the filter guess I will have to switch stuff over like darkblue said. i do like how the return line is set up. More work and time, got to love it.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Almost there
Well I pulled all the injectors out and replaced them, cleaned out the bores. Got the replacement IP sat in place, finger tightened the mounting bolts. Tomorrow should be the day I see if she will pop smoke. One thing I noticed when I pulled the oil filler cover, it had a ton of RTV just loaded on it, coming apart looked like it had been leaking. I guess there are no gaskets for it also. That will be the biggest pain tomorrow. I see why they changed the design for the 7.3.
I was debating on if I should change the inj's but when I looked at them I am glad I did. I have a friend who will test the old ones and the IP to tell me what's wrong with it.
Once I pulled the IP I looked at the fuel inlet and found some of the olive rings embedded in it. That may be the reason why it didn't pump clogged with the rubber. I went to my favorite hose shop today and had a hose made to go between the filter and the IP. No more olives to worry about, for that line anyway. If it runs I will replace all the lines.
Well I pulled all the injectors out and replaced them, cleaned out the bores. Got the replacement IP sat in place, finger tightened the mounting bolts. Tomorrow should be the day I see if she will pop smoke. One thing I noticed when I pulled the oil filler cover, it had a ton of RTV just loaded on it, coming apart looked like it had been leaking. I guess there are no gaskets for it also. That will be the biggest pain tomorrow. I see why they changed the design for the 7.3.
I was debating on if I should change the inj's but when I looked at them I am glad I did. I have a friend who will test the old ones and the IP to tell me what's wrong with it.
Once I pulled the IP I looked at the fuel inlet and found some of the olive rings embedded in it. That may be the reason why it didn't pump clogged with the rubber. I went to my favorite hose shop today and had a hose made to go between the filter and the IP. No more olives to worry about, for that line anyway. If it runs I will replace all the lines.
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Baytonia
Full Access Member
Quick update, I found more issues while trying to get the engine to run. Also other issues have come up and taken priority at this time. So I must take care of more important issues for now. Doing some remodeling of the shop, and I have to empty the shop to do it. When I get back on her I will post updates.
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Shop Update
Well I built an addition to the back of the shop, (you know we never have enough room) finally got it insulated. I spent the big bucks and got it spray foamed 3". Worth every dime, I will never use traditional insulation again in any type of structure, this stuff is far superior, and has a lifetime warranty. Completely seals from all elements including water, adds strength to the walls. Now its time to move equipment back in so I can continue to work. I am going to take a break today and start Monday.
One thing I did do with the 6.9 yesterday, something I should have done in the beginning, took a comp test. Found 2 cylinders in the back at 130 psi, I stopped at that point, the first four I checked had 350psi. With that said I will put in the 7.3 motor to get the truck going and deal with the 6.9 at a later date.
I will need help on the wiring portion. I see the wiring is slightly different from the 6.9, but the 7.3 has the updated glow plug system, not sure if I should keep the 6.9 stuff and put on the 7.3 or use all the 7.3 stuff and splice it in? Even the fuel filter housing is different more connections on the 7.3?
Some specifics would be appreciated on the wiring of this swap. I am going to replace the rear main, valve covers, cooler o ring, the crank seal looks ok, I have to see how difficult it is to replace, I don't know about the water pump? What do you guys recommend since the motor is on the stand now? Head gaskets?
Well I built an addition to the back of the shop, (you know we never have enough room) finally got it insulated. I spent the big bucks and got it spray foamed 3". Worth every dime, I will never use traditional insulation again in any type of structure, this stuff is far superior, and has a lifetime warranty. Completely seals from all elements including water, adds strength to the walls. Now its time to move equipment back in so I can continue to work. I am going to take a break today and start Monday.
One thing I did do with the 6.9 yesterday, something I should have done in the beginning, took a comp test. Found 2 cylinders in the back at 130 psi, I stopped at that point, the first four I checked had 350psi. With that said I will put in the 7.3 motor to get the truck going and deal with the 6.9 at a later date.
I will need help on the wiring portion. I see the wiring is slightly different from the 6.9, but the 7.3 has the updated glow plug system, not sure if I should keep the 6.9 stuff and put on the 7.3 or use all the 7.3 stuff and splice it in? Even the fuel filter housing is different more connections on the 7.3?
Some specifics would be appreciated on the wiring of this swap. I am going to replace the rear main, valve covers, cooler o ring, the crank seal looks ok, I have to see how difficult it is to replace, I don't know about the water pump? What do you guys recommend since the motor is on the stand now? Head gaskets?
Attachments
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Okay, do not worry about the 130 in the compression. The spread on these diesels is tremendous and that is more than likely within spec. They heat up and seal better than you would think. I can not stress enough that you need to jump the wire on the 6.9 connector and do the 7.3 GP swap. It is FAR superior to the 6.9 system. If you have it cranking, and have a good IP, just crank it with the starter until you see the fuel coming out of the injector lines (at the injector). I would unhook the GPs for this anyway since you are just trying to purge the system. When you get fuel at the lines, just give it a shot of starting fluid and it will fire. I am guessing your cold days where you are are like 50 degrees. If it starts and dies twice on starting fluid, it will probably (even with a half set of good plugs) start and fire on its own. Whatever you do, do NOT hose it down with the starting fluid. It will run REALLY fast.
It took many tries to get mine setup right where I could get it started. My sagua was much like yours. I have a 7.3 fuel filter and GP setup. Ported intake, heads, Type4 cam, matched (my own) injectors, and a supercharger. I had a NP 435 and just today started it with the ZF 5speed (6 months without it SUCKED).
SWS
It took many tries to get mine setup right where I could get it started. My sagua was much like yours. I have a 7.3 fuel filter and GP setup. Ported intake, heads, Type4 cam, matched (my own) injectors, and a supercharger. I had a NP 435 and just today started it with the ZF 5speed (6 months without it SUCKED).
SWS
Baytonia
Full Access Member
Getting 7.3 ready
Well I have had some time to get the 7.3 cleaned, accessories stripped, and starting to replace seals. The motor was real clean inside, and the oil pan seemed like it was sealed pretty well, but if I had choose not to pull it, with my luck it would have leaked. I am torn if I should pull the heads???
Right now I am doing the valve covers, oil pan, rear main, oil cooler. I brought an entire gasket set cost close to $300.00, the pan gasket has the manifold gasket attached to it. I see to replace the front main seal you must pull the front cover, water pump and the IP timing gear cover has to come off first. The front of the pan was dry so I am holding back. It comes to a point where you ask where do you stop before dropping it in???? If you pull the heads you should have them checked at least, then what about decking the engine? If you do that the pistons come out, now just do a complete rebuild.
Well I have had some time to get the 7.3 cleaned, accessories stripped, and starting to replace seals. The motor was real clean inside, and the oil pan seemed like it was sealed pretty well, but if I had choose not to pull it, with my luck it would have leaked. I am torn if I should pull the heads???
Right now I am doing the valve covers, oil pan, rear main, oil cooler. I brought an entire gasket set cost close to $300.00, the pan gasket has the manifold gasket attached to it. I see to replace the front main seal you must pull the front cover, water pump and the IP timing gear cover has to come off first. The front of the pan was dry so I am holding back. It comes to a point where you ask where do you stop before dropping it in???? If you pull the heads you should have them checked at least, then what about decking the engine? If you do that the pistons come out, now just do a complete rebuild.
Attachments
jhenegh
Truck Still Earns its Keep
Most everybody recommends only RTV on the oil pan.
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