just a feww more ??s ..suspension, injectors

[castlesburning]

ok thanks guys.
so if there are just a few places to get quality injectors where and who??.
when i do the new injectors do I need the timing set?? (im guessing yes.)
anybody used the fuel lines sold on ebay for 35$?? I need 7
I am NOT trying to go crazy with my truck. I want to maintain the MAX stock parts and drivability and 32inch tires, with max wheel travel. really only looking for a few more inches of axle clearance; so the suspewnsion will articulate just a little bit more. there are a few trails that I just cant stay on because I have a wheel hanging 2 inches off the rocks and I slide until that 4th wheel(tire) makes contact again. just like 2 more inches,
and in the middle of the truck where that wierd ass counterweight looking thing hangs down in the middle of the C-6 crossmember; ( what is that thing anyway??)
just need a few inches to not get hung up on rocks in the trail.
I have no idea if that makes sense. say from 1 inch to 4 inches. I kinda figured the ifs was not so good.
so, I need the solid axle. which is great since I just rebuilt the hubs, bearings lockouts and brakes on the IFS. perfect...
no blocks. dont weld the front. got it.
what is the difference between the bearing grease for disc brakes and the grease for drum brakes??
i am now thinking I need to keep the axles bolted to the springs and raise the frame off the springs with 2"-3" longer shackles?
this should keep the entire front end aligned except for the steering from the box to the drag link?
can I make the new longer shackles out of beefy steel angle or plate?
if i can make them out of plate or angle, then just need a different or modified pitman arm? or draglink?
I have searched the forum and found many partial answers.
thanks again

 

[sootman73]

if you want to lift the frame off the springs you can do that but you have to drop the center pivots at the same time or your camber angles will go way off very quickly. but that is how the kits work. they drop the center and then usually put arched springs over the axle. really probably not that hard to fab up center drop brackets. just make sure to over build them which i'm sure you would do.

and just an fyi, you could have listed this under your original post that way there are not so many posts being made every day.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Injectors you can get from pensacola diesel . http://www.pensacoladiesel.com/ The return line kit off ebay is just fine to use, comes with all the parts and o rings, copper washers, etc....

As far as your suspsnsion goes, you might get away with an add-a-leaf? Just a thought.....

 

[icanfixall]

Don'y buy from Diesel Care in Tenn.... They have a very bad rep with many members here. You can read all about them in the section called "Hall of Shame". Above....

 

[Redneck]

you can make your own shackles, it's easy as pie, if you can't figure out how to do it by looking at the old ones, you shouldn't be fabricating suspension parts.
You're already running approx 32" tires, those are stockers. To get 4" more clearance under your axles, you need 8" taller tires-40"

For more wheel travel, you need flexier springs, which means more, thinner leaves. To pull numbers outta my ass, lets say stock front pack is 3 1/2" thick leaves. 6 1/4" leaves will ride and flex better, An ad a leaf will make your ride stiffer, less flex.
BUT....with flexier leaves, you get axle wrap issues, which leads to an antiwrap bar or maybe anti wrap leaves.

 

[castlesburning]

you guys are d bomb!! thanks!!

thanks, I have read the shame stories... tsk tsk tsk....I run a very small carpentry business myself and just cant see the reason for crappy customer service?? I bend OVER BACKWARDS to give my clients the best value for their money and still make a living, if you can call it that.
I think I have seen every companies website and all the ebay injectors, and all I really have is which ones NOT to buy....So I am going with the new delphi injectors from pensacola for 155$ and a new return line kit for 30$ and the new fuel lines for 35$ each. this will be my first ebay purchase. (ever)
I dont really want taller tires, as I have almost $1000.00 invested in the ones i have and they are very good. I just want a little bit more room under the chassis. this will also improve my approach angle.
I have owned several 4x4s (landcruisers and pathfinders) and love the challenge of tryng to go where only the custom rigs can go.
so...Im going to get some different springs, fab my own shackles since I cant seem to find any, or buy some if I can find them, prob best to buy the center pivot drop down bracket if I can find one....
now what if I use a type of 4 link where I have an adjustable stabilizer bar (3 foot screw type farm link?)that runs from the axle to the frame back under the cab.
thanks for the help.

 

[Redneck]

4 link can't happen up front with your axle.

well, I guess you could, but again, you can't get much flex outta an axle that's still tied to the frame in the middle, so links would be a waste of time.
SASing our trucks (I'm told) is SUPER easy, literally roll the TTB out, roll the solid axle under, get your new u-bolts on, connect and bleed brakes, connect steering, and roll out.

 

[icanfixall]

Why are you buying some $35.00 lines?? If you are talking the hard steel injection lines then don't buy them. Ebay has full used sets come up all the time for $25.00 to $50.00 per set. Just make sure you maintain the line dampners at 2 per side of the motor. Otherwise you will be breaking lines from the fuel pulse vibrations. I found this out the hard way years ago....

 

[icanfixall]

Here you go. Just found these on Ebay...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...d=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:10|39:1|240:1318
And here is another set..http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford...d=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65:10|39:1|240:1318

 

[castlesburning]

well...I have to replace 7 lines; 1 is new already, 2 are cracked or split and being held together by epoxy, and the others have what looks to me like cracking above the banjo nut. 2 are weeping but not dripping and since everything else is new whynot new lines? how can i be sure that the used lines are not cracked or split?
given the amount of cash I have spent on the truck, $5k, hell whats another few hundred?
I am basically rebuilding(not restoring) this truck from the ground up.
when I am done I dont expect to do ANYTHING except maintenance for a few years.

 

[castlesburning]

I know the solid axle is best but that wont happen till i find one for free, or the other breaks. I am just trying to get a little more with what I have. The last one of these I had I never had probs with the front end except for bending up the drag link and whatever.