injectors stuck

[djnsj]

In taking my engine apart, found that it had spun 2 rod bearings. Looked like the dealership that had put it in as a Ford authorized reman failed to seat the oil dipstick tube all the way into the block, as I found the tube secured at the valve cover but lacked about 3/4" of getting into the block. Since the PO used the truck as a service truck for his excavation business, you can imagine all crud that got down into the block.
My other problem, is when I was pulling the injectors, some of them were real hard to unscrew. At first I thought that they had seized in the head. But to my suprise, only the top half of the inj. came out. I had actually unscrewed the inj body. The tips on 3 of them have seized into the head. Not the top part that actually screws into the head but the bottom part with the copper washer.
Any ideas on getting them out. The torque it takes to unscrew them was almost as much as the head bolts, so I'm assuming threading the top part back on to try and unscrew them again won't do it. Is there access through the pre combustion chambers to tap them out, and how do you get the pre cup out?
Also, is Ken's the only source for head studs? I'm a little concerned about communication and turnaround time with them.

Any ideas on either subject would be helpful.
thanks

 

[schoelta]

If you have the heads off, why not just have the machine shop get them out for you. I'm assuming you are taking them to a shop to get checked out since you have them off. Another idea is spay some B-12 CHEMTOOL and let them soak, they are stuck from all the carbon build up. Other penetrating oil may work also. I'm sure other have many other tips to get the injectors out.

 

[argve]

soak them with PB Blaster or SKRoil - you could try WD-40 but I haven't had all that good luck with it in the past. Soak them over night or during the course of the day - just keep them wet and wait then try again - try some heat on them as well if they still are a pain.

You knock the pre cups out via the injector hole so you really need to get them out - you can try and knock the pre cups out via the glow plug hole but I'm not sure you will get it out.

 

[Diesel JD]

I wonder if the bearings spun because the crud that got in or the oil that got out(and it was run dry) or just cause it was a work truck that got the heck abused out of it. I think Ken is the only guy that makes studs for 7.3 IDI. Might check with ARP and Summit Racing as well. From what I recall Icanfixall helped Ken in the design of these things and they have a higher tensile strength than the ARPs. I also think it's custom work for ARP(or it was a few years ago) hence DPS studs though expensive are still cheaper than ARP. Ken does good work... and he seems honest..but his customer service usually sucks! If I was assured he'd return my calls I'd not hesitate to buy from him though. Its not just him, customer service seems to be a lost art..but I digress... I would look into if ARP now has studs as a stock item for the 7.3 and what Ken's prices art these days. I would buy the cheaper of the two and not worry about it since either are much stronger than stock bolts and should eliminate lifting the heads for normal use. If I was doing a super duper HO buildup, I would buy Ken's studs for sure and eliminate that as an area of concern.

 

[icanfixall]

For the studs contact Russ (typ4) in Oregon. He has some that ARP had that will work. I don't remember what the psi was, probably 190,000psi. My set from Ken is 270,000 psi and new head bolts for the 7.3 IDI are 153,000psi. I had some tested for that information. Top fuel motors use a 9/16 stud with a 220,000psi strength.... They don't break either but then again we use a 1/2 inch stud too. I sure would like to "find" a bad 7.3 block and drill it for a 9/16 inch stud. I already have 2 cracked ported heads to test this out.....

 

[RLDSL]

Get a can of Aero Kroil or Sili Kroil here
Spray it down around the offending injectors, let it sit overnight at least, a couple of days if you can, re spray a few times, go in and unscrew it as far as it will go, then reverse spray some more and tighten it back in and run it back and forth a few times, if it still won't work lose, spray some more and let sit another day. The combination of soaking and working it in and out should loosen the carbon up and let it out.

--------Robert

 

[Agnem]

To get the stuck injectors out, take one of the bodies that screwed out, and grind the threads off the injector body (the ones that hold it in the head). Then screw the body back onto the nozzle assembly. Now you can turn the injector clockwise until the nozzle assembly breaks loose.

 

[djnsj]

Thanks for all the ideas. Some combination of them should do it. Also thanks for the info on the studs. I'll have to PM him.