Ignition switch problem or is it electrical?

[blackflag]

My truck (86 F-350 w/ 6.9) will not restart after running it for a while such as for an hour or so. Now, I'm aware of the IP injector maybe going bad and having to pour water on it to cool it down to get it to start but I don't think that's the issue. Instead, I wonder if it's something electircal. I say that because when I try to start it after shutting it down it acts as if it has no current going through it at all because i don't hear the key buzzer when I turn the key and don't have interior lights, headlights, etc. But, once it cools down for an hour or so it will turn over fine and start. A mechanic buddy of mine said the thought the ignition switch might be worn out and the contacts are bad and when it gets hot they don't carry the charge. I've notice that I'm missing insulation on battery cables in a few area and wondered if once the truck warms up the missing insulation would keep it from getting the necessary current. I don't know much about the electrical side so what I'm describing may sound like complete nonsense to most of you so if it does, I apologize. Anyway, does anyone have any input as to where I might look? Installing a new ignition switch or buying new battery cables and grounds are both fairly inexpensive and easy fixes and I'd definitely like to start cheap and work my way up to expensive while trouble shooting rather than the other way around. Thanks.

 

[Jmackk]

If I understand right are you saying you are pouring cold water onto a hot Injection Pump??? Dont do that!!! Its a really good way to destroy your IP

Try pushing the steering wheel toward the roof, I have to do that to get mine to start do to the mechanical thingie(yes that is a technical term) not completing the circuit in the steering column

 

[blackflag]

No, I'm not even doing anything to the IP but have seen it posted on here that some folks have poured water (maybe not cold, room temperature) on an IP to cool it down so that it would start. I think mine is more of an electrical issue but included the IP info just to put more info out about my start problem. I will try your suggestion about the steering column. If that works on your truck are you thinking that your switch is possibly bad as well?

 

[blackflag]

And sorry for the confusion about the IP, I should proff read a little more closely before I post. Sorry.

 

[diesel dummy]

The insulation missing will not affect the the ability of the wire to carry current. With not getting lights or anything I would suspect electrical as lights should work at anytime you pull the switch,key on or off.Check the fuse block to see if you have anything hot there when this happens.See if you have hazard flashers they should be hot at all times,if not you have a main power feed problem.Also check the turn signal switch connector under the dash on the column it may not be plugged together all the way, ford runs alot of stuff thru this switch.I am not sure how it would be affected by the run time or heat but its worth checking.Let us know what you find it might help narrow this down.

 

[blackflag]

Thanks diesel dummy, I'll check what you suggested. My hazards also do not work when this happens. I'll post back what I find. Thanks again.

 

[travelinman31]

Had the same thing happen to me on my '85. Look on the passenger fender wheel wheel close to the glow plug relay (but not attached to it). You will see a connector it's white or cream in color. Two wires in and two wires out. One of the wires is a positive and one a ground. On mine the connection inside had gotten loose or corroded and started an arcing process inside the connector. It was hard to tell exactly what had happened but I cut the connector out and put a butt splice on the positive wire and taped it good, no more problem loosing all electrical power. I'll look for a picture and see what I can post for you.

 

[travelinman31]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/905383-85-f250-electrical-problem.html There is a picture in this discussion of the connector I'm talking about, it's gray not white or cream don't know what I was thiking. If your truck has no power pop the hood and watch the light under the hood as you wiggle this connector.

 

[Jmackk]

No problem Blackflag, I hope I did not come across to strong lol. I have the the same year truck and engine(great year)

On my/our steering column, when you turn the key the tumbler pushes a little rod that then touches the ignition switch to complete the circuit if I remember correctly(or something to that fact) what happens is the guide on the rod break/wear or like mine the steering column begins to sag which increases the gap between the switch and the rod so I have to lift up on the steering wheel to help close the gap. You can research it and find more details on it, I may not even be explaining correctly, its common in the 80"s model trucks. I just tell every one i have the "limited edition anti-theft ignition lock steering column"

 

[Jmackk]

Had the same thing happen to me on my '85. Look on the passenger fender wheel wheel close to the glow plug relay (but not attached to it). You will see a connector it's white or cream in color. Two wires in and two wires out. One of the wires is a positive and one a ground. On mine the connection inside had gotten loose or corroded and started an arcing process inside the connector. It was hard to tell exactly what had happened but I cut the connector out and put a butt splice on the positive wire and taped it good, no more problem loosing all electrical power. I'll look for a picture and see what I can post for you.

My hazards dont work either Ill have to check out this connection as well

 

[blackflag]

tavelinman31, thanks I'll check that. And Jmackk, thanks to you as well. I love my truck too, just as I'm sure you do, and don't mind spending a few pennies on it from time to time to keep it roadworthy....that and knowing it doesn't take an engineering degree to work on it

 

[dgr]

No crank-where the engine doesn't turn over when the key is turned
No start-where the engine does turn over but doesn't run

It sounds like you have number one, not number two. If so, it has nothing to do with the water on the ip trick. It is an electrical problem that hopefully someone has ran across. If not you are in for some painful wire tracing as it will be the last place you look. I would be looking at the main power feed through the firewall. We can be pretty sure it isn't the ignition switch as your headlights don't work. We can be pretty sure it isn't your headlight switch as your ignition doesn't work.
Test both batteries. I would be giving all the fusible links a very thorough going over. They can break internally. The crimped connectors can corrode and lose contact when warm.

 

[blackflag]

dgr, great info! Thanks for your help, I'm going to get it to a guy that's pretty sharp with electrical stuff and am going to print off this thread for him to reference. I appreciate everyone's help.