IDI Rebuild

[zigg]

What makes it a throw away motor??
I thought the 7.3 was an inproved upon 6.9??
quote]
The 7.3 IDI was bored out for more power and larger head bolts used for better head gasket holding. .

Personally I would use a late 6.9 block over a 7.3IDI block. And a 7.3IDI block over an early 6.9 block since the 7.3IDI's flaws are fixable with sleeving.

I agree with that. In fact that's just what I did. I "built" a late '86 model 6.9 with studs, bored out .030 and all new parts and then balanced. It runs amazing. Now that it's nicely broken in(5,000km on it-3,000mi) I'm just waiting for the turbo down pipe to come from ATS and then I can really get on 'er.

I would add one more thing. Make sure the pre-cups are measured accurately. They are allowed to protrude or recess only .002 thou. Personally, I'd have them sticking out slightly. I learned this the hard way!!

Zigg

 

[h2odrx]

I would add one more thing. Make sure the pre-cups are measured accurately. They are allowed to protrude or recess only .002 thou. Personally, I'd have them sticking out slightly. I learned this the hard way!!

Zigg

Why?

 

[Agnem]

You must have missed the "precups from hell" episode.

Nothing like doing your head gaskets, just to have the precups hold the head up off the block for you.

Well John, your right about the noises. They are not to be ignored. Pulling the valve covers and checking some things is probably not near as bad as doing a total rebuild though.

 

[dieselviznince]

Hey where do you put a post to sell a truck? I would like to sell my 1988 F250 7.3 100k 4x4 supercab longbox zf 5speed 3.55 gears about 20mpg. with title for $900 It is in nothern Michigan. [[email protected]"] So where do I put this???? Thanks.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Just scroll down the list of threads. In the middle of the group label as "General Discussion" is a thread called MARKETPLACE. Thats the one you want.

 

[caterpillar]

trust me dave knows what he's talking about, the 7.3L is a "trrow away block" you can't bore it, sleeves will slip out, rebuild the 6.9L you'll be much happier, bore it out to a 7.0L and you'll have what you want+, I hate to see you waste your money just to have something go to crap after 30K miles, but hey its your money you do what you want with it, me I'm just trying to help ya out a little, I say find a 6.9L that you can bore out and rebuild and get more power than needed again thats my two lincolns but whatever lincoln says to you, you go ahead and do that

 

[Diesel JD]

So dry sleeves never work? Or they don't work when the machinist who does them sucks? Or even if he's a good machinist for boring, heads, and can build a mean 350 gas engine, but doesn't have a heck of a lot of diesel experience? I'm not trying to be antagonistic. I have always planned on sleeves as part of any overhaul of a parent bore block assuming I could afford it. If this is wrong....maybe I need to rethink that idea.. that being a block sleeved to factory specs, standard pistons, all new pistons and rings, bearings, etc balanced is basically a brand new engine.

 

[Agnem]

Sleeving is an industry standard and has worked fine on all the "factory" 7.3 remans. I'm not sure one persons experience should buck the entire industry.

 

[metrojd]

sleeving

I talked to my machinest friend and he told me that there is no way if done right a sleeve will slide out.
He said that he dosent bore the cylinder all the way down through.
You have to leave a section of the org. cylinder wall as a stop for the sleeve.
then the sleeves are pressed in and machined flush with the deck of the block.
So once the cylinder head is on there is NO way it will move.