david85
Full Access Member
He's got a point there^
If cavitation is going on, then you should be seeing some pressure building in the water jacket. Maybe enough to cause coolant to over flow out the recovery tank (sometimes in the form of foam).
i think its done
- Thread starter braboy
- Start date
He's got a point there^
If cavitation is going on, then you should be seeing some pressure building in the water jacket. Maybe enough to cause coolant to over flow out the recovery tank (sometimes in the form of foam).
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Oil cooler oring could of let loose. You could always sleeve all 8 holes and then there's no cavitation issue.
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Yeah, before you go throwing good money after bad, you should be sure of the probelm. If there is a problem with the cavatation, you can start to get blow by in the rad. There is a tester for this to see (usually tests for bad HGs) if combustion gasses are in the coolant. Also, if you pump up the rad, where is the water leaking through? How does it run when the coolant is full? Does it blow out the overflow? Is there a bubbling in the overflow? Does it hot start differently than when the level is low? These are all things that can have different causes. Has a compression test been done?
SWS
SWS
braboy
Full Access Member
did a rad tester leeked off in about 5min. no fome in rad just low after 40 miles will get vidoe tomarow so you all can see and hear.not to good at tiping to explain what is going on thanks for the help
braboy
Full Access Member
on oil in rad .oil + water in crankcase vent hose .no water in oil on dip stick just the vent . i just dont know
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Oil will show better in water it's really easy to see.
The water is probably suspended in the oil from use. It won't be straight black it will have a brown hue which I think you mentioned earlier.
The water is probably suspended in the oil from use. It won't be straight black it will have a brown hue which I think you mentioned earlier.
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
If you do not have water in the oil, I don't think you need a new block. If that pic in your avatar is your pick-up, I believe that may be the reason of the water in the tube. Its condensation that has/is burning its way out of the system. Your warm hard start and different power levels is probably caused by an IP that is on the way out.
SWS
SWS
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Hey whereabouts in FL are you? There are a few of us down here with varying levels of expertise but I know we'd all like to help you out. There are no real hard and fast rules but generally coolant in the oil= cavitation, blown head gasket, cracked head, cracked block etc. Oil in the coolant is almost always oil cooler orings. I'm now quite confused which problem you have. It sounds like you have some water in the crankcase vent but not at the dipstick...is this pure water or actual engine coolant? I'm almost thinking that if it were pure water it might be condensation somehow. If it were coolant in the oil, I'd assume something went wrong with your head repair or the big C. Also I'm going to assume you changed the oil after the repairs were done. If it sat open for very long or the oil was not changed some coolant or pure water could have drained into the crankcase/oil pan while the work was being done. How much coolant is it using? No coolant "use" by the engine is really acceptable but a few minor leaks aren't that bad.
braboy
Full Access Member
diesel jd im in lake city and im going out to get vidoe to day so everone can see.thanks for the input
braboy
Full Access Member
that is my truck in the pic.that was last year in AZ. so thats not the water lol.
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
It was just the thought of the use of that thing maybe running through some bogs on a regular basis with it sucking water, there could be a possibility.
Other than that, have you tried to loosen the drain pan bolt after it has sat overnight or so? If water/a-freeze does not leak out prior to the oil (you just need to start to loosen the pan bolt and not take it out) then it will be okay and you have other problems (like I said about the IP) and the rest is in your head.
COMPRESSION TEST?
SWS
Other than that, have you tried to loosen the drain pan bolt after it has sat overnight or so? If water/a-freeze does not leak out prior to the oil (you just need to start to loosen the pan bolt and not take it out) then it will be okay and you have other problems (like I said about the IP) and the rest is in your head.
COMPRESSION TEST?
SWS
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
I'm 45 miles or so south of you in Gainesville. I'm not the most competent when it comes to diagnosing cavitation but once I get my truck back on the road myself maybe Wed. or Thurs. I'd be glad to come have a peek at it. Probably the best I could offer would be another pair of eyes to check it out. I could render an opinion, but we all have them and they all stink. PM me if interested.
You need to check your valve covers, if they have a brown waxy film or build up in them then you have cavitation. Being bored .030 over it's prolly to late to sleeve the block, it would have to be bored again to leave a ridge at the bottom or a step at the top for the sleeve's. How to check for cavitation. http://www.thedieselstop.com/contents/getitems.php3?Cavitation Diagnosis
braboy
Full Access Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUh_2CC1ba0 well this is it give a look
braboy
Full Access Member
diesel JD thanks for the offer dont think thats ness at this point .but if you want to help do the swap we feed well i think i could grill some meat and to all the guys that gave your 2cent thanks hope i can be of some help some day
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