I just acquired a '93 model IDIT 190HP turbo engine, tips and info please?

[PCausey]

Hello,
I'm new to this website and somewhat new to working with diesels but not new at all to mechanical work. I own a 85 Ford E-350 4x4 van with the 6.9 in it and I just purchased a '93 model 7.3 IDIT 190HP turbo engine complete from a local salvage yard today so cheap it'd be bragging to list the price. I don't know anything about the engine or the mileage on it. The mechanical fuel pump is missing but everything else appears to be there. There was 1/2 cup of water that ran out before the oil but it's probably rain water from the hole for the fuel pump. The oil was very thin and might have had fuel in it. It's spins freely and there's no obvious damage anywhere.

My plan is to immediately run a compression check and do everything I can to check this engine out. It could be really good and if it'll run I'd like to know. If anyone can give me tips for cranking one up on the ground and anything I should do to it in advance to protect it I'd like to hear feedback.

I want a rebuild on it anyway I think and that will come over the next few months so I'll be looking for tips and info on this rebuild.

For now I plan to immediately install the turbo system on my 6.9 since it's all bolt on and completely interchangeable from what I've read. Any tips here would be great too and I already know about the restrictive down pipe but that's an easy fix in the van body. I know the turbo will take a toll on the 6.9 so I'll be getting the 7.3 built and ready while I do everything I can to improve the turbo performance until I blow up the 6.9 and swap to the 7.3

For now what should I be looking for to inspect the 7.3 and see if it'll run?

 

[Devon Harley]

I love your van!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Hydro-idi]

Welcome to oilburners! There are so many knowledgeable members on this site to help you out with any question you may have about your van. Congrats on the awesome 7.3 idi turbo find too!
Rebuilding and sleeving that 7.3 idi would be an awesome idea. In my opinion, I would just tear into it rather than trying to get it started since your plans are to rebuild it anyways. These are great engines and last a long time when maintained properly. Oh...arp headstuds are a must too!
Now for the idea of taking off the turbo and mounting it to your 6.9 in the van.....not too sure I would do that but that is my opinion. Stock 6.9 engines, although very dependable and less prone to cavitation, have smaller head bolts than the 7.3's have. It is very common for a 6.9 to have headgasket issues due to headbolts stretching and the poor gaskets used from factory. Unless you plan on pulling the heads, replacing bolts with arp head studs and new gaskets, I would not recommend you installing that turbo. There is bound to be a headgasket issue later on down the road....if there is not one already.
However, if this is a factory turbo on the 7.3, I wouldn't be too concerned because they don't push out the air like banks and ats turbos do. I think the factory turbo systems only added an additional 15 hp

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. To run a compression test you do not need to have the injection pump on the engine. Sounds like someone removed the pump, gear cover and the gear all as one piece. There are ways to get that back together but they are tuff to get correct. We have been talking about that just today too. There is some good info on the forum about it. Your going to want to look closely at the turbo inlet fan for rubs. See if the shaft has play in and out plus up and down. We do run with some up and down clearances because the oil will run up a wedge that protects the bushings and shaft.. Putting that turbo on the van wil be ok but know that you are pushing the head bolts to the limits Rebuilding the 7.3 with ARP head studs is a good idea too. Its added insurance you wont be removing the heads in the van ever. There really isn't anything we do with the bottom ends. They are bullit proof. The oil pumps are the same and much better quality that the melling pumps we buy as replacements. Rods and main bearings are exactly the same in every idi engine no matter if its a 6.9, 7.3 or 7.3 turbo engine. Not knowing if this engine has ever been rebuilt is my issue. Hopefully it has not been opened up. Someone could have milled the heads or replaced the turbo rods and pistons with a set of non turbo rods and pistons. Also the exhaust valves in the turbo engine are made from inconel matrial... Its like a stainless steel on steroids... Its very good with abrasion and heat so it works great in the turbo engine. I have to say I ran my non turbo engine for around 200,000 miles with my Banks turbo on it. I ran fast... Hauled heavy and boosted to 13 lbs doing all that. I never lifted a head and never hurt an exhaust valve. I was not running head studs either. Decking the block is very important as is line honing the crank main webs or line boreing them. It really straightens up the crank bearings and reduces the rolling resistance to the crank. Look carefully at the rods and main bearings when they come out. See any wear thru on the edges. That means the crank main bearing bore was not straight. See it on the rod bearings tell you the cylinder bore was not done true to the crank and is being pushed to the front or back of the cylinder causing the bearing to wear on that edge. Good luck with the build and please ask questions before you buy injecters or injection pumps from any ebay sellers. The forum here called... The Hall of Shame will tell you who to avoid...

 

[PCausey]

The fuel pump I'm referring to that's missing is the low pressure pump. I assume that's what goes where I see the whole because it's shaped just like a fuel pump hole on a gasser. The injection pump is all there and in tact

 

[PCausey]

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[Hydro-idi]

Attachment doesn't work for me. But those are cheap pumps to replace. Your local auto parts store will have them available for you to purchase.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for clearing up what pump is missing. Thats called a mechanical lift pump or just a lift pump. They are around $25.00 at most fake auto parts stores. Ask here which pumps are the better pump to install. Most members here will not use them but install a electric lift pump. Its works so much better to have the electric pump pushing fuel to the system before the engine starts. We install a chevy lift pump block off plate to cover up the mechanical lift pump location.

 

[riotwarrior]

Welcome to Oil Burners, the best place for info on these trucks and engines.

Congratulations on that IDIT

Nice van too BTW

Please take some time and view our tech articles as well look at the FAQ's for some great info and help on some basic stuff for these engines.

I'm not 100 % on this but there may possible be fitment issues with the turbo kit in your van. I cannot speak from experience just IIRC from other posts there are differences from Vans to trucks. I'm sure another member with more familiarity than myself will chime in and straighten that fact out for us.

As for your spinning the engine up, I suppose I'd just do a cold comp test and see if it's got any comp before going to far, pull all the glow plugs and test through those holes.

Once you have some facts on the engine, you can better decide what you may be needing to do.

Again Welcome to OB

Al

 

[PCausey]

I expected some clearence problems with the turbo so last month I built a 2 1/4" body lift and got it installed already so I have a lot more overhead room in the vans doghouse. It'll still be tight though for sure. Thanks for the tips.

 

[diezelcrazee]

Nice looking van in your avatar pic, any chance you can post larger pics of it?

And welcome to Oil Burners from one Texan to another. Not to far from ya, just over past Stephenville.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Yeah that is one hell of a van right there. Put some bigger tires on there and it could pass for a monster truck lol.

 

[racer30]

You Need to check your casting numbers on all your internal parts before ordering any parts like piston rings they are diferant than the NA engine. Keep the balancer and flex plate for the turbo engine they are balanced for the bigger rods and pins in the turbo engine. Check the bores and only bore the engine if it is out of spec. Pistons and rebore are expensive. This engine is not known for alot of ware in the cylinders, Don't let some kid at the shop tell you it needs bored out, Thats how they make money is to get you to bore and replace as many parts as they can. If it has good bores Just hone and re ring the engine. Check your piston tops right in the center the pistons are prone to cracking. Both of my turbo engines had cracked pistons. Chain that bad boy to a HD pallet and crank it up. Good luck

 

[PCausey]

I agree the tires look small but those are actually 37/12.50R16.5 military Humvee tires. it's hard to get much bigger in the tires and still maintain good differential components. Too much weight and diameter can be very ******* the differentials but I might go from 37's to 40's next time I do need tires. Once you roll one away from the van you realize how big they really are and it's an optical illusion created by the shear size of the body.

 

[PCausey]

I have been trying to figure out how to create an album on this site with lot's of pics I have of building it but I can't find the link on my profile to do it. Maybe I need a paid membership here? I don't know but if you can tell me how to get pictures posted here then I will