I hate TTB axles

[The_Josh_Bear]

Unless there is massive amounts of camber it is not a camber issue. It is a toe issue. Camber may determine where the tire will wear, but toe is what makes the tire wear prematurely. Toe also is what is making the front end lift up when backed up, and then squat when going forward, neither should happen. Toe in combination with unequal caster values will cause the vehicle to pull left or right, 0 toe 0 pull. TTB work best with 0 to a hair positive toe. Forget using a tape it does not go down to hairs. Specs say a little negative toe is even permissible. I would check bushings as they may let the axles move changing alignment when driving. Understand how toe controls all aspects of the TTB is the key to stopping TTB tire issues.
My alignment tools consist of a digital angle meter and a flat bar with two studs for camber, and caster. A trackace for toe along with keeping an eye on tire wear.

I think if he had enough negative toe-in to cause that kind of wear he would be complaining about dangerous steering, wouldn't he?
The spec is 0 to 0.25" toe-in, isn't it? I've done tape measure toe in for about 15 years and once my camber geometry got fixed with add-a-leafs and bushings I've had no issues since. Wears the fronts very evenly. I'm pretty picky about my measurements, but still it's just me by myself doing it with nothing else special. The only trick is to measure on the same spot on the same lugs each time, same row, highest point, etc.

 

[u2slow]

The further problem with TTB/TiB is the toe also changes with payload (suspension height).

Maybe note how much your front end plunges on braking... especially with big loads and long hills.

You really have two options:
- always run the truck at whatever payload the alignment was done at
- stiffer-sprung front end so the height doesn't change appreciably with payload (what my Dad did on his '84 F350 crew)

The final option is the D60 swap and this whole tire-eating/alignment nuisance goes away.

 

[hce]

The spec is 0 to 0.25" toe-in, isn't it? I've done tape measure toe in for about 15 years and once my camber geometry got fixed with add-a-leafs and bushings I've had no issues since. Wears the fronts very evenly. I'm pretty picky about my measurements, but still it's just me by myself doing it with nothing else special. The only trick is to measure on the same spot on the same lugs each time, same row, highest point, etc.

No the spec is .25 degrees, theres a inch measement of .13 but where is that taken from, .13 on the rims is different then .13 on the radius of the tire. If it is the tire, the tire is not true enough for this measurement, maybe if a line is scribed on the tire and very front and very rear of tire can be measured in a straight line.
Below are some specs I have saved. I have seen them where a small negative toe is acceptable ie .03° but the target is still positve. Ideally the goal is to have 0 degrees toe at highspeeds once all forces are acting on the wheels and suspension.

FRONT CASTER: L=4.0, R=4.5± 0.5 L=4, R=4½±½
FRONT CAMBER: MIN.=-1.5 MAX.=3.8 MIN.=-1½ MAX.=3¾
FRONT TOE (degrees): 0.06°±0.25°
FRONT TOE (inches): 0.03±0.13"

 

[raeasler]

The bushing on the upper ball joint sounds wonderful.

On my 1967 F100 the camber is changed by heating the TTB ends and putting a "fixture" on it and bending it up or down. Ford used to do it that way.

The "fixture" actually uses a hydraulic bottle jack to help bend the beams.

 

[Jl elevatorman]

For what it is worth, around 89 or 90, I put a set of Air Ride bags on my 86 250 4x4. Took it to a spring shop, and had them set it at the ride height and align it. I marked the shocks so when I loaded my 11.5 ft Coachman slide in, by changing the air pressure the front was good. Same
thing with my snow plow. Pick up the blade drive forward 10 ft. check mark. Between jobs dry roads did not eat the tires, when plowing its on ice ie no wear. Added 10 psi gauge and noted pressures. When I spec the truck and had it built it did what I wanted not what the salesman new was better. No longer daily but with the slide in dump bed and the boom arm that hooks on the Meyers frame, it is handy. also can carry 30 ft long steel on top of truck with the other accessories. O yeah, the winch mounted in the dump bed is pretty cool too. Sorry forgot, the truck had settled an inch or more and the air bags took up the inch. It was the best riding tib I ever was in. Rode on air, secured by steel, rear was factory heavy+helpers. 86 F250 Lariat XLT idi 4 speed 3.55 posi f 600 west coast mirrors. ONE OWNER

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

For what it is worth, around 89 or 90, I put a set of Air Ride bags on my 86 250 4x4. Took it to a spring shop, and had them set it at the ride height and align it. I marked the shocks so when I loaded my 11.5 ft Coachman slide in, by changing the air pressure the front was good. Same
thing with my snow plow. Pick up the blade drive forward 10 ft. check mark. Between jobs dry roads did not eat the tires, when plowing its on ice ie no wear. Added 10 psi gauge and noted pressures. When I spec the truck and had it built it did what I wanted not what the salesman new was better. No longer daily but with the slide in dump bed and the boom arm that hooks on the Meyers frame, it is handy. also can carry 30 ft long steel on top of truck with the other accessories. O yeah, the winch mounted in the dump bed is pretty cool too. Sorry forgot, the truck had settled an inch or more and the air bags took up the inch. It was the best riding tib I ever was in. Rode on air, secured by steel, rear was factory heavy+helpers. 86 F250 Lariat XLT idi 4 speed 3.55 posi f 600 west coast mirrors. ONE OWNER

Pics or it didn't happen!

 

[Goose_ss4]

Has anyone seen Solo motorsports cut and turn axles. Fixes all these issues