Weird steering

[BrianX128]

It just ends up breaking off a piece about 1/4 of an inch anytime I can get anything to hook, they're super brittle.

 

[chillman88]

It just ends up breaking off a piece about 1/4 of an inch anytime I can get anything to hook, they're super brittle.

That's what I had to do on my brother in law's Jeep. Just keep going with a hammer and punch/chisel. Get under it just a little, lather rinse repeat. Royal pain but it's the only way I know that doesn't involve destroying things!

 

[Black dawg]

if you are good with a torch........those clips melt really easy.

 

[Big Bart]

Stay with it, you will prevail!

Use a hammer or air hammer to see if you can push the cap down. The c-clip should stay in place and now you can get under it. If you cannot get the u-joint out a machine shop with a press can do these for $25-35.

I have a Dake bench top press that works great for things like this.

If you drive on a lot of salted roads you may want to put a little grease on top of the u-joint caps after you install it and put the c clip in. Perhaps the other ones you plan to keep. So next round far less rust. Maybe some on the back side of the spindle plate to make it easier to remove next time.

You are almost there.

 

[BrianX128]

They're not gonna come out. Two hours with an air chisel, torch, etc. This is all I've gotten.

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[Black dawg]

try heating the clip up red hot, a lot of the time just a little bit of oxygen to it at that point and they will just melt out

 

[Big Bart]

Time is money and money is time. If not budging then perhaps you -

1) Look on line for new pricing.
2) Look on e-bay for used.
3) Maybe call a local salvage yard for used.
4) Then go see 2-3 local machine shops or driveline shops for a quote to press or torch out and repair. Would suggest you bring them the u-joint. They just do the labor.

Then you know your options.

 

[BrianX128]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174751289433

I'm thinking of buying this. Almost positive it's the same thing but mine has a shield piece on the short shaft..

 

[catbird7]

When I'm working on rusty parts that are hopelessly stuck together, the go to weapon is a torch! If you don't have an big torch sometimes one of those "map" gas torches works just right. Heat it up and wack it.

 

[Big Bart]

Did you see his shipping price? $50 seems a little high. Maybe offer him $80 for the axle and see if he bites to offset the high shipping price. Also ask him if he has a/the sheild? I would guess they press on and off.

If not heat yours up and see if you can push it off with the air hammer.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

if you have access to a acetilene tourch just cut the ujoint worst case run it to a machince shop and have them remove it.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

some times smacking in on the cap will also loosen the clip.

 

[Big Bart]

Also you may want to replace the u-joint with the a Spicer branded one.(That is what is in there.) They seem to be the top choice of the dana front axle shaft. (Jeepers also swear by them.) Some have found some other brands fit too tight or a little loose. Causing some pain getting them in, getting them out, and lasting as long! (Not saying all other brands are not good, just frustrating when the one you get a brand that does not fit right and tough to go in or come out.)

Due to its location I would also go with the sealed one. (They also will offer a greasable one.) If you end up going with a greasable one I would also recommend the Spicer branded grease for your u-joints, drive shafts, and steering fittings that are greaseable.

 

[Jackieboy]

Randomly my 85 350 has started super odd steering. It's a ttb 50 and it drives as if both front tires are like this \_/ .. as in it started pulling to the right some but not gradual like alignment worn just randomly out of nowhere. If you let go of the wheel it doesn't get progressive worse and keep turning the wheel it just stays there. If you fight it back you can hit the center of the V and it seems fine but if you turn too much left to compensate it does the same thing that way.

I crawled under the front end and played with steering linkages figuring I'd find a roasted bushing or something but everything is solid. It acts like one of my old trucks that you could physically turn the wheel from 12 - 2 and it didn't do anything because of insane play between wheel and box but on this one the wheel to the box is tight.

I'm not sure where else to go, bad p/s pump leaking pressure? Just doesn't feel safe to drive even though the steering shifts don't move you at all on the road it feels like driving a box truck on a bridge and a sudden gust of wind hits you. Any suggestions welcome. Driving the others until I can dig in deeper. I ripped the wheels off and didn't check for bearing play yet so that's a thought while I'm typing this I suppose.

Check your king pins.

 

[subway]

I am with Nick here, I have used a zip wheel to cut apart a u joint on the inside. then you can just hammer the caps down in on both sides to get it out. If you cant fit a cut off wheel you might be able to use a sawzall to cut the u-joint apart.

can you at least get the clip out of one side? that would be enough to press the u joint down away from the broken clip to get better access at removing the broken clip.