*edit*
Just stuck on the spanner nut thing, figured out what I had in this post, my bad.
Just stuck on the spanner nut thing, figured out what I had in this post, my bad.
Last edited:
Weird steering
- Thread starter BrianX128
- Start date
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
If it was easy everyone would be doing it!
Sounds like you said you got it. It is the top nut of a two nuts that have a special lock washer in between. This nut system is what you use to set the wheel bearing lash while preventing the nuts from coming loose.
Usually the special socket needed is in stock at the auto parts store.
Next you should have a plate or a plate with a cone on it. Remove that and you should be able to pull the axle shaft out. Again try to do hold it steady so it does not drag on the axle shaft seal in the axle.
Best if you have a shop press for this job.(Or a friend who does.) If not hopefully you have a good vise and a good sized ball pin hammer to assist with the u-joint repair. Be careful not to damage around the hole of the u-joint cup. Often a impact socket or sacrificial socket with a hammer can assist with pushing out the first u-joint cap on each end. Often with removing 1 cap on opposing sides, you can remove the u-joint then work on the two halves separately to remove the other caps. Also the socket will help with installing them back in. If these are not held in with c-clamps you may need a torch the driveshaft ends to melt the plastic used to hold these in lou of a c-clamp.(Think that was a Chevy thing.) Then replace with ones that use a c-clamp.
Here is a video on Youtube that may help -
Sounds like you said you got it. It is the top nut of a two nuts that have a special lock washer in between. This nut system is what you use to set the wheel bearing lash while preventing the nuts from coming loose.
Usually the special socket needed is in stock at the auto parts store.
Next you should have a plate or a plate with a cone on it. Remove that and you should be able to pull the axle shaft out. Again try to do hold it steady so it does not drag on the axle shaft seal in the axle.
Best if you have a shop press for this job.(Or a friend who does.) If not hopefully you have a good vise and a good sized ball pin hammer to assist with the u-joint repair. Be careful not to damage around the hole of the u-joint cup. Often a impact socket or sacrificial socket with a hammer can assist with pushing out the first u-joint cap on each end. Often with removing 1 cap on opposing sides, you can remove the u-joint then work on the two halves separately to remove the other caps. Also the socket will help with installing them back in. If these are not held in with c-clamps you may need a torch the driveshaft ends to melt the plastic used to hold these in lou of a c-clamp.(Think that was a Chevy thing.) Then replace with ones that use a c-clamp.
Here is a video on Youtube that may help -
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
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So close just can't get the cover to come loose to pull the axle out..
I've broken two air chisel ends off now trying to get that stupid plate off after taking the bolts off. Tried to grind between it to jam a pry bar in it on the left side in that picture, and when I pry on it it's just bending. Tried heat. Smashed it with a sledge. I'm going to end up having to cut it off, this is somehow 10 times more frustrating than doing a water pump, fuel tanks, anything I've done on these stupid things. Unreal.
Black dawg
Registered User
are you talking about the spindle?
In that picture where the 5 studs are sticking out, that plate I need to pull off to pull the axle shaft through the hole is seized solid to the "rest of things" on the steering knuckle or whatever you want to call it
Double-S-Diesel
parts seller
ive used these without the slide hammer , just beat it into submission
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-9...ocphy=9006104&hvtargid=pla-799247472152&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-9...ocphy=9006104&hvtargid=pla-799247472152&psc=1
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I'm starting to think it's not coming off without massive damage to other stuff. I gotta walk away from this tonight or I'm gonna break something else and loose it. ******** this is frustrating.
Big Bart
Tow&Slow
Brainx128,
Good call, walk away, cooler heads prevail. We all have been down this pain funnel that ends up in frustration and at times making things worse before we make them better. You will feel better tomorrow for sure and you will succeed.
You got screwed by a really bad case of rust, or this would be done tonight. Know if you took it to a mechanic they would be charging you $125.00-150.00 an hour to break this loose for you. (And maybe break it and charge you for the part too!) Then another 6 hours to do the actual work. So you will save $800 -$1,000 dollars, your just having to work a little harder for that money than you thought!
Food for thought -
1) I was going to say it might be easier to pull the ball joints and take the steering knuckle with it. However from the pic they are rusted up too.
2) Did you use the air hammer from the back? (Don't use the chisel bit, rather a flat punch bit. (Auto parts store, Sears, likely Home Depot if you need one, most are universal.) Suggest pushing the plate out of the steering knuckle from the back side (Engine side) VS trying to pry off the front.) Careful not to mushroom the edges together, hit 1/2' from the edge of the spindle plate. My guess it its not very stuck plate to plate, its the steering knuckle center hole that is rusted onto the back of the spindle plate circle. (As I recall they are machined to fit inside of each other and thus center inside of each other for alignment reasons.) So that rust has a hold on it and vibration and oil will break the rust bond and free it up.
3) I would soak it every hour (Front and back) with penetrating oil till you go to bed. Maybe heat up the back side of the knuckle, then spray on more penetrating oil yet tonight.
4) Heat is your friend, but heat the steering knuckle, not the front spindle plate. Heating the spindle plate will make it expand in the hole and get even tighter. When hot the oil seems to seep in deeper.
5) I really like Double S Diesels spindle socket suggestion from Amazon with a slide hammer as your back up plan. That would give some good pull torque and some great vibration.
6) Remember now is the time to do wheel bearings, rotor, and brakes if anything is showing signs of wear. VS having to pull all this work back apart in 6-12 months.
If all this does not work to free it, remember time is money and money is time. So it will be time to bite the bullet and get both parts used out of a junk yard. They can take them off together by simply removing/cutting the ball joints at the junk yard.
Lastely I suggest you do the other side too. (I know that is probably the last thing on your mind!) However imagine you are 5-10 hours away and the other side gives up. You (Or your truck) will be stuck for a couple of days while some poor mechanic goes through the same pain funnel to find out its rusted up and he needs to order parts that are a day, two, or three out. Then sends you a giant bill.
Stay the course you can do this and you will make it happen!
Good call, walk away, cooler heads prevail. We all have been down this pain funnel that ends up in frustration and at times making things worse before we make them better. You will feel better tomorrow for sure and you will succeed.
You got screwed by a really bad case of rust, or this would be done tonight. Know if you took it to a mechanic they would be charging you $125.00-150.00 an hour to break this loose for you. (And maybe break it and charge you for the part too!) Then another 6 hours to do the actual work. So you will save $800 -$1,000 dollars, your just having to work a little harder for that money than you thought!
Food for thought -
1) I was going to say it might be easier to pull the ball joints and take the steering knuckle with it. However from the pic they are rusted up too.
2) Did you use the air hammer from the back? (Don't use the chisel bit, rather a flat punch bit. (Auto parts store, Sears, likely Home Depot if you need one, most are universal.) Suggest pushing the plate out of the steering knuckle from the back side (Engine side) VS trying to pry off the front.) Careful not to mushroom the edges together, hit 1/2' from the edge of the spindle plate. My guess it its not very stuck plate to plate, its the steering knuckle center hole that is rusted onto the back of the spindle plate circle. (As I recall they are machined to fit inside of each other and thus center inside of each other for alignment reasons.) So that rust has a hold on it and vibration and oil will break the rust bond and free it up.
3) I would soak it every hour (Front and back) with penetrating oil till you go to bed. Maybe heat up the back side of the knuckle, then spray on more penetrating oil yet tonight.
4) Heat is your friend, but heat the steering knuckle, not the front spindle plate. Heating the spindle plate will make it expand in the hole and get even tighter. When hot the oil seems to seep in deeper.
5) I really like Double S Diesels spindle socket suggestion from Amazon with a slide hammer as your back up plan. That would give some good pull torque and some great vibration.
6) Remember now is the time to do wheel bearings, rotor, and brakes if anything is showing signs of wear. VS having to pull all this work back apart in 6-12 months.
If all this does not work to free it, remember time is money and money is time. So it will be time to bite the bullet and get both parts used out of a junk yard. They can take them off together by simply removing/cutting the ball joints at the junk yard.
Lastely I suggest you do the other side too. (I know that is probably the last thing on your mind!) However imagine you are 5-10 hours away and the other side gives up. You (Or your truck) will be stuck for a couple of days while some poor mechanic goes through the same pain funnel to find out its rusted up and he needs to order parts that are a day, two, or three out. Then sends you a giant bill.
Stay the course you can do this and you will make it happen!
Black dawg
Registered User
Have you tried hitting in the space between where the bearings ride. They almost never come off without hitting them there. I have used duct tape to protect the threads and then bear the crap out of it. Then once you start getting a gap at the back, tap a screw driver or chisel in there an hit the spindle on the opposite side. It is not uncommon for the spindle to be really stuck
Black dawg
Registered User
A big copper of brass hammer really helps
I put the spanner nuts back on the spindle and beat it senseless and was able to get the spindle off. Now the damn shaft won't separate at the boot coming out of the front diff, I took both retainers off the boot, not sure why I'm having this issue as it seems like I should just be able to pull the thing out?
Black dawg
Registered User
does it feel like the boot is holding it, or are the splines rusty and stuck?
It was stuck, I was able to get it out with a pry bar. I've made a sad discovery while doing this, someone was here before me (guessing previous owners) - each u joint retaining clip is broke off and rusted to the u joint. I have no idea how I'm going to get these out, I don't think I honestly can without destroying everything. I'm probably going to need an entirely new axle shaft. It's bad.
*edit*
Upon further inspection, the center u joint and drivers side u joints are clearly newer and look like they've been replaced. I think this thing was up a few years ago when they had it getting all of this work done, it looks like someone did everything else including driveshaft u joints and just gave up on the passenger side axle..
*edit*
Upon further inspection, the center u joint and drivers side u joints are clearly newer and look like they've been replaced. I think this thing was up a few years ago when they had it getting all of this work done, it looks like someone did everything else including driveshaft u joints and just gave up on the passenger side axle..
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Black dawg
Registered User
Hammer the cap in a little farther and then try to hook those clips with a screwdriver or sharp center punch and hammer.
