GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
Good job Gary!
I got my camper today...
- Thread starter EMD_DRIVER
- Start date
If yours is 30 ft it most likely weighs a sight more than 5500 pounds, especially if it's a '78. The older frames were pretty heavy. My '84 5er is only 28ft and it weighs around 10k
Some other thing's to do. With that trailer
Scrub the roof down good with a scrub brush, use a powder detergent, rinse and dry well before sealing.
Pull the brake hubs and check the brake lining's, repack the bearings,use Chevron synthetic, the blue stuff. Clean as much old grease out as possible. Don't over pack.
Set up the brakes so they just turn freely.
Disinfect the fresh water system. Fill the tank half way, pour a 1/2 gallon of Chlorox in it then circulate it and leave stand for a day or so. Tow the trailer around the block to slosh the tank. Drain and refill with fresh water, and flush the system, use the city water hookup to flush the lines and hot water tank. Doing that will also check for any leaks.
Check the propane system for leaks. If you have a stove with pilot light's make sure the oven is turned off to OFF, or light the pilot in there.
If the tires show checked/cracked, it's better to replace them. Use only ST (Special Trailer) tires.
On the fridge, if you see yellow stuff around the backside coils anyplace it's shot. The ammonia has leaked out. The yellow stuff is the rust inhibitor.
If the fridge is working, take the cover off at the burner and bang the flu a little to knock the rust down. Clean the crap off the burner then.
Put a little water in the Black water tank, to make sure the dump valve is not leaking. A cap on the dump hose connection is a must going down the road.
If the fridge is working on propane and not on electric, the heating element may be burned out. Let me know, I have about 70-80 older fridge elements.
All I can think of now.
Have a great time with it.
Scrub the roof down good with a scrub brush, use a powder detergent, rinse and dry well before sealing.
Pull the brake hubs and check the brake lining's, repack the bearings,use Chevron synthetic, the blue stuff. Clean as much old grease out as possible. Don't over pack.
Set up the brakes so they just turn freely.
Disinfect the fresh water system. Fill the tank half way, pour a 1/2 gallon of Chlorox in it then circulate it and leave stand for a day or so. Tow the trailer around the block to slosh the tank. Drain and refill with fresh water, and flush the system, use the city water hookup to flush the lines and hot water tank. Doing that will also check for any leaks.
Check the propane system for leaks. If you have a stove with pilot light's make sure the oven is turned off to OFF, or light the pilot in there.
If the tires show checked/cracked, it's better to replace them. Use only ST (Special Trailer) tires.
On the fridge, if you see yellow stuff around the backside coils anyplace it's shot. The ammonia has leaked out. The yellow stuff is the rust inhibitor.
If the fridge is working, take the cover off at the burner and bang the flu a little to knock the rust down. Clean the crap off the burner then.
Put a little water in the Black water tank, to make sure the dump valve is not leaking. A cap on the dump hose connection is a must going down the road.
If the fridge is working on propane and not on electric, the heating element may be burned out. Let me know, I have about 70-80 older fridge elements.
All I can think of now.
Have a great time with it.
When you get up on the roof, get some Eternabond and scrape all the old sealand off around all the rof vents and the ac unit etc and cut some strips of this stuff and seal it up so you don't have to re do it every 2 years 
You are going to need to redo the strip caulk on the corner trim on the leading edge , roof and trailing edge as well, , if you don't mind looking at it, you can use that eternabond stuff there as well so you don't have to ever do that again, but the stuff sticks out kind of ugly on the old aluminum skin trailers, on the new FRP trailers it blends right in.
You are going to need to redo the strip caulk on the corner trim on the leading edge , roof and trailing edge as well, , if you don't mind looking at it, you can use that eternabond stuff there as well so you don't have to ever do that again, but the stuff sticks out kind of ugly on the old aluminum skin trailers, on the new FRP trailers it blends right in.
pcpotter
Registered User
Congrats on the trailer, I have a question though, how did you secure the deck on the trailer I like going to races myself and I like the idea of the deck on top. and all you other guys that read this I'm new to this so and I haven't fugured out how to post a thank so i am going to do it here. I've posted several different questions and I have been very happy with the response so THANKS TO ALL OF YOU THAT HAVE RESPONDED AND THANKS TO THE POST OTHER PEOPLE MAKE I HAVE LEARNED A LOT FROM READING THEM.
Thx Patrick
Thx Patrick
Classicfordguy
Full Access Member
You might be able to see from the pictures. I made the deck out of 2x3's and plywood with astro turf on top. Its in three 4ft x 8ft sections that I screw together. I made it so all the weight is setting on the edges of the camper where the vertical wall "beams" are. Its not attached, it just sits there, we take it down and load it in the truck for the trip. This year I am going to find a way to leave it up there without the railing just so we dont have to put it up and take it down when we get to the track.
Be careful of the strength and condition of your walls if you want to put a deck up there. When I got mine I fixed alot of rot in the front and replaced the rotted wall frame with much larger pieces in anicipation of the deck.
-Rob
Be careful of the strength and condition of your walls if you want to put a deck up there. When I got mine I fixed alot of rot in the front and replaced the rotted wall frame with much larger pieces in anicipation of the deck.
-Rob
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unclewilson
Full Access Member
well heres a link that will help! hxxp://www.phrannie.org/phredex.html change the xxs to tt http no harsh chemicals to holding tank that will kill live bacteria or you will suffer the smell
Congrats Gary! You've got the rally fever now. (Seen this happen a few times now). Be carefull on that roof. Keep your weight spread out. Use some padded sheets of plywood about 1' square to put your hands and knees on.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
And wait for an 80+ degree to work on it as the roof will hit 120+ farenheit and will be at juuuust the right temperature to melt your sneakers.
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