This is a lot at this point, but could you get us enough pictures to trace what you just described?
I don't electrical
- Thread starter Scotty4
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hacked89
Full Access Member
Speaking of I wanted to clarify exactly what I meant before.
His "no start" issue began after he tried to splice into the marker lights.
His "no start" issue is actually no glow plugs, dash lights, switched post to starter solenoid etc etc because that's what black orange stripe and yellow power with the numbers I mentioned. Those are the two wires that have the drop in the run/start position.
He has a voltage drop in the run position on those wires ever since trying to splice into the marker lights. Even after removing the splice.
Everything you said I'm on board with and agree, we had similar conversation on the phone.
I have a couple hours of work I need to get done so I'll be back around midnight.
Here.. The 37 yellow and 38 black orange I mentioned. The 14 gauge fusable link is where he maxi'd
His no start issue started after splicing into the marked lights.
I only spoke to him about focusing on no start currently.. Started with testing at the starter solenoid and traced backwards.
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Thank you.
And I think we are on a good track here. I think I sussed out a similarity between mine and his, that may show the problem...
More, once I process the pictures I just took.
And I think we are on a good track here. I think I sussed out a similarity between mine and his, that may show the problem...
More, once I process the pictures I just took.
Ok, Scott, this is what I have, and I think it will help to explain what you have.
First, there are two cables at the alternator. I can show one here, but I can't get the second one into the picture. Both cables are mounted on that main stud.
Next, I have the cable that goes from the alternator to the solenoid on the wheelwell.
This pic shows both, that cable, and the cable from the solenoid to the battery.
When you look at the cable that comes from the alternator, there are two fusible links in there. I think those are the fusible links you replaced with the max fuse.
Now an overall view, showing as best I can, all 3 cables.
Were I you, I'd replace the cable that you have coming from the alternator to the max fuse.
And I would also put a cable directly from the battery, not to the max fuse, but to the solenoid at the same connection post.
Do that, your truck will start and run.
THEN we can get to work on the headlights, and other lights.
First, there are two cables at the alternator. I can show one here, but I can't get the second one into the picture. Both cables are mounted on that main stud.
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Next, I have the cable that goes from the alternator to the solenoid on the wheelwell.
This pic shows both, that cable, and the cable from the solenoid to the battery.
When you look at the cable that comes from the alternator, there are two fusible links in there. I think those are the fusible links you replaced with the max fuse.
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Now an overall view, showing as best I can, all 3 cables.
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Were I you, I'd replace the cable that you have coming from the alternator to the max fuse.
And I would also put a cable directly from the battery, not to the max fuse, but to the solenoid at the same connection post.
Do that, your truck will start and run.
THEN we can get to work on the headlights, and other lights.
One last for now...
I ALSO put a whole new cable... from the negative at the battery, to the BODY of the alternator. That solved a few issues I was having, my own self.
There was never a cable there before. It relied on the physical connection to the engine block for it's ground.
I put a new cable from one of the mounting bolts on the body of the alt, directly to the negative post of the battery.
I ALSO put a whole new cable... from the negative at the battery, to the BODY of the alternator. That solved a few issues I was having, my own self.
There was never a cable there before. It relied on the physical connection to the engine block for it's ground.
I put a new cable from one of the mounting bolts on the body of the alt, directly to the negative post of the battery.
Public service announcement regarding head light relay installation: when you decide to power them from the starter relay instead of the battery, as I did, make sure you clean the existing ring terminals and get the nut snug. Not loose as I did. But don't overdo it and break the stud as I was trying to avoid by being a nancy.
Everything is shiney and happy with grease and shes fires right up. Still half the marker lights don't work but at least I can drive the thing.
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Everything is shiney and happy with grease and shes fires right up. Still half the marker lights don't work but at least I can drive the thing.
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hacked89
Full Access Member
Great advice, that's how I have mine. Errr had... Everything is in pieces.
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Thanks Jeff. When I rewire and add a fuse block in the future I will take on your recommendations! Adding a ground tomorrow to the alt for sure.
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hacked89
Full Access Member
How did the truck run today Mike?
These are good pictures from Jeff.
To recap for informational purposes.
It's good to understand the logic of troubleshooting versus the fix.
The very first test we did was check 12v on #2. That is from the battery.
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We had 12v there and then checked the sensing pole #3 when ignition switch in start position. No 12v.
We then tested the yellow #37 and black and orange #38. They had 12v in ignition switch off but almost voltage dropped to nothing when loaded with the switch in run position.
Back to Jeff's pictures.. You can see the black and orange stripe and yellow that we are talking about in his alternator picture and his wiring suggestions which were dead on.
That needs a good connection to #2 that we tested.. But when you and Chris talked and you wiggled it.. Bad connection.
When we jumped the 12v with a good connection to black and orange and yellow.. Truck ran.
Good time, happy team effort was able to solve it so quick.
When you fixing markers? Haha
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Agreed. Thanks for all the help @hacked89 @chillman88 and @Selahdoor. Really made it easy to follow.
As for the truck running today, it ran perfect aside from my speedo giving up again. Got a yard of dirt and came back no issues. Our house went up for sale today so we have to be away from the house all weekend. I'll most likely mess with the markers in the evenings or Monday morning.
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As for the truck running today, it ran perfect aside from my speedo giving up again. Got a yard of dirt and came back no issues. Our house went up for sale today so we have to be away from the house all weekend. I'll most likely mess with the markers in the evenings or Monday morning.
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Just trying to make things more clear.
I am not ashamed to say that sometimes I need things broken down to the point a kiddleygartner could understand them. That's why I personally try to be as comprehensive in my explanation of electrical stuff, as possible.
At #3...
Pull the wire off.
There should be zero volts at that post. Always. Always. Until the wire FEEDS it 12v.
The wire... Should have 12v when the ignition switch is in the START position.
All other times that wire should read zero volts.
~~~~~~~
If that wire was not supplying 12v with the switch in start... Then the ignition switch was not being fed.
And it looks like that was because of the loose wiring.
I am not ashamed to say that sometimes I need things broken down to the point a kiddleygartner could understand them. That's why I personally try to be as comprehensive in my explanation of electrical stuff, as possible.
At #3...
Pull the wire off.
There should be zero volts at that post. Always. Always. Until the wire FEEDS it 12v.
The wire... Should have 12v when the ignition switch is in the START position.
All other times that wire should read zero volts.
~~~~~~~
If that wire was not supplying 12v with the switch in start... Then the ignition switch was not being fed.
And it looks like that was because of the loose wiring.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Yep we are saying the same thing and that's how it works.
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I was just clarifying. 
Someone else, reading that might have thought that the post was supposed to have 12v on it.
You understood. I understood. But someone else reading that, might not.
Sometimes I need things explained to kiddleygarten level, before I understand them. I just try to see it the way someone who doesn't understand what I understand, might see it. Then explain it in more detail.
And I wasn't suggesting pulling #3 off and leaving it off. I was suggesting pulling it for testing.
And as you suggest, we are well past that point now.
Like I said. Just clarifying.
Someone else, reading that might have thought that the post was supposed to have 12v on it.
You understood. I understood. But someone else reading that, might not.
Sometimes I need things explained to kiddleygarten level, before I understand them. I just try to see it the way someone who doesn't understand what I understand, might see it. Then explain it in more detail.
And I wasn't suggesting pulling #3 off and leaving it off. I was suggesting pulling it for testing.
And as you suggest, we are well past that point now.
Like I said. Just clarifying.
hacked89
Full Access Member
Haha yes.. keep it simple stupid!I was just clarifying.
Someone else, reading that might have thought that the post was supposed to have 12v on it.
You understood. I understood. But someone else reading that, might not.
Sometimes I need things explained to kiddleygarten level, before I understand them. I just try to see it the way someone who doesn't understand what I understand, might see it. Then explain it in more detail.
And I wasn't suggesting pulling #3 off and leaving it off. I was suggesting pulling it for testing.
And as you suggest, we are well past that point now.
Like I said. Just clarifying.
I had edited my comment right after I typed it cause I figured we both were on the same page. Not sure which part of the edit you caught but time to work on my own stuff for tonight.
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