how long do you guys run your oil?

chris142

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I'm talking petroleum 15w40.not the latest synthetic from amsoil or redline etc. Many of my trips are 6.5 miles to work and the same back home.I live on a dirt rd and its terrible on air filters. There's a sticker on my engine that says 2500 miles for severe and 5000 for highway.

But that was for 80's oil too.I tend to be conservative and change it before 4000 miles.it uses about a qt every 600 miles.now its got a pretty bad oil leak and I have been topping it up with maxlife hoping that will stop the leak. Maxlife is not a diesel rated oil but I figure a few QTS mixed in won't hurt anything.

My oil always stinks like fuel and consumption really goes up after 3000 miles.

Anyway. So how long do you guys let it go?
 

79jasper

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Shouldn't really smell like fuel at all.
Short trips like that are harder on oil. Well not really harder per say, but won't burn off the moisture in the oil.
If the max life is more expensive, your most likely just wasting money.
Fix the oil leak?

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chris142

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I don't have the gumption or help available to pull the trans out to replace the seal right now. I'm hoping the hm oil will slow or stop the leak. It worked well on my jeep
 

IDIoit

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I don't have the gumption or help available to pull the trans out to replace the seal right now. I'm hoping the hm oil will slow or stop the leak. It worked well on my jeep

i have about the same commute. except my dirt is sand. i change mine every 4 months. reguardless of mileage
 

Clayton

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I shoot for 4k, Been running 15w40 supertech and fl1995 filters.
 

PwrSmoke

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Chris142 you are, or were, over on BITOG... the fountain of knowledge on oil. What would they tell you over there? Oil analysis, right?

The oil is good until it's not and modern oil usually lasts longer than people think, but in reality anything said that isn't based on oil analysis is just a lot of jaw-jacking and wild-assed guessing. The life of oil, long or short, is an equation made up of the driving scenario, the type and condition of the engine and the oil and the oil filter used. That's the equation the OE uses still and back when your truck, and ours, were built. They factored in what they knew AT THE TIME, gave themselves a very good safety factor and set the interval. Remember it was done with 1987 oil, which is not nearly as good as todays choices. We have much cleaner fuel now too, which is an oil life extender. On the downside, our engines are now OLD, and that's an important factor.

If you want an objective way to evaluate the OCI FOR YOUR INDIVIDUAL SENARIO, run your normal 4K, send a sample off to Blackstone Labs from what you drain (or you could take a sample without draining if you have the means to do so), making sure you have the TBN tested. If the oil tests good, TBN of 1-2, low insols, small fuel percentage, etc., add a thousand miles or two and repeat until you reach the mileage when you see any of the indicators start to go south. Back off a little for a safety factor and that's then your limit and no more tests are necessary unless you radically change some part of the equation. Anything else is just a guess. If you look on the diesel oil analysis section at BITOG, you will observe that oils can last a very long time in service. Usually it's longer than most people guess, or the standard OCI, but sometimes it's shorter or right at the interval. Ain't no one size fits all. You aren't hurting your engine by changing the oil early, but you aren't helping it either. Mostly, you are just wasting your money.

Also, adding oil, as with a leak, is an oil life extender because you are frequently refreshing the additive package. The oil filter is keeping the oil clean at whatever level it can and also remember that oil filter efficiency improves as the oil filter ages and loads up.

In my own IDI scenario, historically, once I started checking I found the oil in my truck was going very strong at 4-5K with conventional oil and either the standard IDI filter or the PSD filter (I had long been doing 4K intervals). I extended it to 6K and was testing that interval when the heads blew off. ( : < ). After the overhaul, I put in 10W30 Triple Protection Rotella conventional (installed with a break in additive) with a bypass filtration system in addition to a high efficiency primary filter, both of which are oil life extenders, so I am headed for 8K miles until the next test. That will be a four-plus year run it looks like. I have taken two samples in between and both tests were good. I had particle counts done too because I was concerned about break in metals... but, no surprise, a 3 micron bypass system really keeps the oil clean so a break-in change wasn't needed.
 
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chris142

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Ya I'm on BITOG too. I was just wondering if the people that know these trucks had any input.
 

crashnzuk

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If your oil starts to smell like fuel and you notice a marked increase in oil usage, I would change it at a point before this normally occurs. The scientific approach is good, but a common sense approach will get you in the general vicinity. It would be interesting to see a report on the oil when it gets to the point when you notice the change in consumption though.
Travis..
 

icanfixall

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Oil does not really wear out but... It gets contaminated. Thats usually why its changed. Oil does more than lube things in our engines. It carrys away heat and dirt. Then what does not get caught in the filter is suspended in the oil. When oil "wears out" we change it. but thats only because we have an idea when to do that. OEM recommendations are based on what works. Watching a commercial about Fram filters telling you ..."pay me now or pay me later" is hype and jaw jacking. Its been proven many times Fram filters are less than a stellar filter. Our oil additives do wear down too but the oil will not wear down. The viscosity improvers are something on concern too. Say you have 5W50 oil. That means its a 5 weight when it cold but will improve viscosity to 50 weight when hot. As that improver wears down it plates out on the ring grooves as coke. Eventually the rings freeze up and your cylinders are shot. Its been proven a 10W30 is the best oil to run because the gap from low to high is small. I prefer to run Chevron Delo 15W40. I run it till I feel its done. Usually a Blackstone oil Analysis is done to show me its time. No matter what oil I use its black about 3 minutes after a change. Diesel oil has a very high detergent base in it to keep in suspension the dirt not collected by the filter. So black oil in no reason to change it. Knowing whats been collected in the oil tells you when it should be changed.
 

OLDBULL8

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Maxlife is not a diesel rated oil but I figure a few QTS mixed in won't hurt anything.

There is Maxlife diesel oils, but they do contain an additive that softens the seals. Once used, it should always be used until the seals have been replaced. OIL 101 Fact or Friction.
 

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