Head studs/ gaskets

knightlogger

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knightlogger

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The only vacuum spots that don't have lines and the turbo has none

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knightlogger

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***** of it is that I just got the two weeks ago for 2100. Made it home to have it need a **** load of work. I've got almost another 1000 into the truck.

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Waystro

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Ok that's the ATS 085 kit I had that on the first IDI seems to be a common turbo for the early IDIs.
Rebuilding a engine in a week is not going to happen machine shop will take longer just to do your heads.
 

tbrumm

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I put a bottle of Irontite in my cooling system a few weeks ago after Russ suggested it. The driver's side hg had a small leak at the rear of the head and the Irontite sealed it up. My water pump is leaking out the weep hole too, and of course the Irontite has not sealed that up. That is a different type of coolant leak (rotating shaft within a seal rather than a non-moving head gasket) that the Irontite probably wasn't designed to fix, so I didn't expect it too. The Irontite did work well on the small hg leak though. Since I will have the front of the engine torn down for the water pump replacement anyway, and will also have the coolant system drained, I am going to bite the bullet and replace the head gaskets and install head studs.
 

knightlogger

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Well I need new heads and a piston

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cpdenton

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Rock auto has 6.9 sealed power brand Pistons right now for 20 bucks each.

Almost wish I had a 6.9 to buy Pistons for instead of a 7.3.

Made me think about sleeving the whole block.....
 

tbrumm

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I think most here would consider the 6.9 to be a slightly better block than the 7.3. (except the very early 6.9 blocks that is). They are essentially the same block, but the 7.3 has thinner cylinder walls because of being bored out from 6.9l to 7.3l. These thinner cylinder walls come into play as the 7.3 suffers cavitation damage to the cylinder walls much faster than the 6.9 will. Cavitation damage can be prevented with the proper coolant additive. However, the 6.9 has smaller and weaker head bolts (7/16" diameter) verses the 7.3 thicker and stronger 1/2" diameter head bolts. The 6.9 has a couple of water passages in the head that allow it to run a bit cooler, whereas the 7.3 had those same passages "plugged". Some feel this was done to increase temp a bit and thereby lower the emissions.
The 6.9 rocker arm design is not as good as the 7.3 rocker arm design. Each has its pluses and minuses , but the minuses of each can be effectively dealt with to correct them.
 

knightlogger

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Ok so what can I use of a 7.3 on my 6.9 to make it better ? And should I keep my ATS turbo kit on my truck that I bought it with ?

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cpdenton

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If you have a turbo, absolutely keep it.

The 7.3 rocker arms are generally considered an upgrade.



I have actually thought about sleeving down a 7.3 to a 4.00 inch bore, which would be 6.9 bore size. If the sleeves are done right, it should in theory solve the thin cylinder walls and cavitation issues while allowing the stronger 1/2 inch head studs.

Should be the best of both worlds.
 

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