Gut check me....please!

madpogue

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Correct, that generation of truck, vac pump is on the driver's side and so is the vacuum "breakout" box and the low vacuum switch. And the VR is built into the alt.

About the only thing that might be missing from that passenger side, that might be where the original crank-up emergency jack was mounted. You see that clip sticking out of the passenger side fender, between the starter relay and the battery? That clip used to hold the long handle that's used to crank the jack. I reckon the PO probably decommissioned all that stuff. Starting with the late '95 PSDs, that space is occupied by the coolant reservoir and windshield washer fluid tank.

Not sure what "slip bearing" refers to. The throwout bearing maybe? In that case, I would guess that it would take ordinary bearing grease.

As for that vacuum actuator for the blend door, that's just missing a vacuum line that actually comes out of that wire harness that runs parallel to the heater hose. You see how there's one black line coming out of the harness? That's actually a vacuum line, not a wire. It's the vacuum "supply" to the HVAC controls from the vac pump distribution box. Now look veeeerrrrry carefully next to where that line goes into the loom. You see just a dash of white? THAT is the broken-off stub of the vacuum line that hooks up to that little actuator. The line was originally made of pure polycrapium tribrittleite plastic, which gets REAL brittle with age. Must've just broken off, and the PO discarded it. Just find some regular rubber vacuum hose, push one end of it onto that white stub, and the other end onto the actuator, and Bob's your uncle.
 

Desertfireguy

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Awesome. I'm guessing it's the throwout bearing that I was thinking. I'll grab some grease, and vacuum tubing today. Hopefully the pedal assembly comes in too! You folks are A-OK! I literally laughed out loud at "Bob's your uncle"! I spent 4 years over in England and heard that phrase a handful of times. Thanks!
 
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Desertfireguy

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So SUCCESS! Clutch/brake assembly came in and I got it in this afternoon (after a small disagreement with the brakes). It had been a few days since I started her up and she died shortly after I started her. Pumped the gas halfway and she started up with a rough idle, but smoothed out w/in a few seconds. Took her for a short spin to get up to temp and stretch her legs. Runs strong and stops well.

I tried to spline some vacuum tubing onto the blend door actuator, without success. That crappy little piece of white tube doesn't have enough slack to let me do much of anything and I don't really want to strip back the protective plastic sheath to get at more of it. Maybe another day...

Now for the next spot to focus, I'm going to look at getting the driver's door power lock to function again. Everything else seems pretty good to go. Does the parking break have an adjustable linkage somewhere? I've chased down the entire length all the way to the rear tires and can't find one. Also checked the pedal itself without luck. Do I just need to replace the drum brakes? Anyone swapped to disc on this model? Recommended?

Thanks again to all that posted on here! Let me know if this needs to start another thread!
 

madpogue

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The parking brake has a self-adjuster built into the pedal assembly. It could be the rear brakes are worn, or they're not adjusted. The shoes are supposed to be self-adjusting as well, but drum brake self-adjusters have been notoriously flaky for decades. My favorite way of checking the parking brake cable action - Release the parking brake, then get next to the truck on the driver's side, where the intermediate cable from the front and the two rear cables going to the wheels all connect at that "splitter". The rear cables will have housings clipped to a bracket on the frame. Right there, put a piece of tape on the CORE (the moving part) of each of those cables, right at the point where they come out of the cable housings. Then apply the parking brake. Then go down and look at the tape on those two cables. They should no longer be right at the housing, but an inch or so away (maybe more). That indicates how far each rear wheel cable is moving when you operate the pedal. The distance should be the same between the two. If there's a big difference, or if one of the rear cables hasn't moved at all, that suggests that cable has failed. If both have moved a significant amount, and you still don't have sufficient "grab", then it's probably the general adjustment of the rear brakes.

What's the power lock problem? Does it not work from the switch on the driver's door? Or is it the driver's side lock that's not working?
 

TahoeTom

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If your parking brake doesn't work or the pedal goes to the floor the rear shoes are probably way out of adjustment. The drums can be pulled off over the studs. The shoes may be worn out or just out of adjustment. In theory the rear brakes adjust when you apply the brakes while backing up. They don't seem to on my truck. If the shoes look ok you can manually adjust them by turning the star wheel at the bottom until the drum can still be installed but is pretty close.
To lube the throw out bearing you will need to remove the slave cylinder. The clutch fork and boot can be pulled out. It is held by a spring clip. The shaft the TO bearing rides on can be greased by hand or a screwdriver or paint stir stick. Dont get too much in there. Reinstalling the slave can be an adventure. If that plastic strap isn't broken it can hold the slave from extending when it's removed. The strap comes with new slaves for that purpose. I manage to force the slave back in place by hand. I have heard of using a ratchet strap to pull the clutch fork back to make the job easier.
 

Desertfireguy

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Good idea using tape, I'll do that tomorrow! My guess is I'll be adjusting the rear brakes after that! I have to bury the parking break to the floor to get "decent" grab. I wouldn't want to park it on any kind of hill though!

The power locks actuate, but only the passenger door actually releases/engages the lock. I peaked at the DS lock while I locked/unlocked and it just looks like it's loose in there jumping all over the place. Any tips? I watched a couple of youtube vids, but didn't find a great one and wasn't super keen on knocking out the hole to get it loose, though it may have already been knocked loose. Didn't want to spend money on a new one, since I can see this one flopping around. Guessing it just needs to be tightened up?

Thanks Tom! I had no idea about getting in the clutch and at the TO bearing. It does function MUCH better with the new pedal assembly, but I'd like to save as much resistance as possible on that cheap little master cylinder pushrod bushing. The guy before me drilled a hole in his and put a cotter pin through it to keep it from popping off. I might try the rubber band / zip-tie method until this one fails.
 
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vegas39

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Good idea using tape, I'll do that tomorrow! My guess is I'll be adjusting the rear brakes after that! I have to bury the parking break to the floor to get "decent" grab. I wouldn't want to park it on any kind of hill though!

The power locks actuate, but only the passenger door actually releases/engages the lock. I peaked at the DS lock while I locked/unlocked and it just looks like it's loose in there jumping all over the place. Any tips? I watched a couple of youtube vids, but didn't find a great one and wasn't super keen on knocking out the hole to get it loose, though it may have already been knocked loose. Didn't want to spend money on a new one, since I can see this one flopping around. Guessing it just needs to be tightened up?

I had the same issue with my 89 when I bought it, door lock assembly was broke loose. I think it was originally riveted, seems like I was able to put a small nut and bolt on it. Been a while and cant quite recall.

As far as the starting and then stalling, it may be time for a new return line kit. J&S Diesel down off Trop has them in stock relatively cheap, thats where I get mine from.
 

madpogue

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^^^^^ Other method for keeping the pivot pin thing from popping out of the pushrod eyelet on the clutch - Make your own bushing out of a very short piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16" ID brass tubing. Will last a LOT longer than the craptastic plastic one. Then assemble, and slip a 7/16" drill stop collar over the part of the pivot that sticks through the eyelet, and tighten the set screw. I've had both my '95s rigged this way for years, smooth ops and no sign of wear or coming loose.

For the power locks, I'd just pull off the door panel and start nosing around observing while you operate the switch. I recall hearing same as above, that the actuator is riveted in. Maybe the rivet finally broke. Or maybe it's a replacement which was bolted in place, and that bolt/nut have come a-loose. You can always pull the passenger side panel and use it as a guide, just mirror-flipping it visually in your head.
 

Desertfireguy

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So, reaching back to one of my earlier posts...I'm looking to haul an Xterra out to TX when I move and I'm trying to figure out the best setup that won't break the VERY limited bank. Ideally, I'd like to get a car hauler trailer (leaning towards one with surge brakes). In my mind, trying to prep for the worst possible case. If my F250 doesn't make it, I'd like to attempt towing it with the Xterra.

I know the weights vary significantly, but I dipped into a few Xterra forums today (made me feel dirty:puke:) and a few members said they towed heavier loads than the F250. Rating wise, it's on the very upper end. The surge brakes would keep me from having to wire 2 controllers up. Thoughts, suggestions, advice? Again, if I should start a new thread, let me know. Thanks again for all the awesome sauce so far! Rear brake adjustment and a few other tinkerings tomorrow afternoon hopefully!
 

towcat

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So, reaching back to one of my earlier posts...I'm looking to haul an Xterra out to TX when I move and I'm trying to figure out the best setup that won't break the VERY limited bank. Ideally, I'd like to get a car hauler trailer (leaning towards one with surge brakes). In my mind, trying to prep for the worst possible case. If my F250 doesn't make it, I'd like to attempt towing it with the Xterra.

I know the weights vary significantly, but I dipped into a few Xterra forums today (made me feel dirty:puke:) and a few members said they towed heavier loads than the F250. Rating wise, it's on the very upper end. The surge brakes would keep me from having to wire 2 controllers up. Thoughts, suggestions, advice? Again, if I should start a new thread, let me know. Thanks again for all the awesome sauce so far! Rear brake adjustment and a few other tinkerings tomorrow afternoon hopefully!
remember..... towed weight is your trailer weight and your truck's weight combined.
towing it with an Xterra is extremely wishful thinking. I do the commute from CA to TX and there's no better feeling than to watch the lighter stuff fight crosswinds as I am putt-putting along at 18k combined weight. :D
I didn't see what the cab is, reg cab or super cab. just as a rule of thumb, a reg cab 4x4 is 6k/lbs and a supercab 4x4 is 7k/lbs. a 10k cert trailer is roughly 2k/lbs so you can see where the weights are quickly heading. hooking this mess to an Xterra is asking for a ride you'll never forget. If you do want to continue this idea, you better have electric brakes, load equalizer and sway control. those will be a must.
of course, there's nothing you can do other than enjoy the ride if a serious crosswind gets a hold of you......observe...... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwOqARlw1EI&list=PL324085D52F887A6B&index=22
 

Desertfireguy

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That is one heck of a video and that wasn't a super light truck either! I know it's definitely not ideal, but I don't think I'd be worried about the wind blowing the trailer over (with either vehicle on it). I'm just planning for contingencies and wouldn't plan on setting any land speed records if I had to swap the Ford and Nissan.

On yet another side note...more SUCCESS! I was able to use a little heat shrink tubing to get my blend door actuator in the engine compartment working. Didn't realize there was another one under the glove box too. Someone had disconnected that one too and bent the actuator arm. I tried to bend it back and ended up breaking the daggum plastic bit that swings the actual door. I've got some superglue curing on it now and will probably try to reinforce with a zip tie (my new best friend). The air is nice and cold too!

Also adjusted the rear brakes too. I'm thinking it'll need new pads in a few months, but got a little more life for the time being! Parking brake firmed up nicely and I did the tape trick to make sure they pulled equally (which they did). Not much left to do now but drive her around! Might try to bang out a bit of body damage (DS rear fender behind the tire, had a blow out and the rubber slapped the side hard from what the previous owner said) Then maybe a little wash, wax and vacuum!

Thanks to everyone again for all the awesome advice and I'll be sure to monitor the forums! Y'all rock!
 

vegas39

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That is one heck of a video and that wasn't a super light truck either! I know it's definitely not ideal, but I don't think I'd be worried about the wind blowing the trailer over (with either vehicle on it). I'm just planning for contingencies and wouldn't plan on setting any land speed records if I had to swap the Ford and Nissan.

On yet another side note...more SUCCESS! I was able to use a little heat shrink tubing to get my blend door actuator in the engine compartment working. Didn't realize there was another one under the glove box too. Someone had disconnected that one too and bent the actuator arm. I tried to bend it back and ended up breaking the daggum plastic bit that swings the actual door. I've got some superglue curing on it now and will probably try to reinforce with a zip tie (my new best friend). The air is nice and cold too!

Also adjusted the rear brakes too. I'm thinking it'll need new pads in a few months, but got a little more life for the time being! Parking brake firmed up nicely and I did the tape trick to make sure they pulled equally (which they did). Not much left to do now but drive her around! Might try to bang out a bit of body damage (DS rear fender behind the tire, had a blow out and the rubber slapped the side hard from what the previous owner said) Then maybe a little wash, wax and vacuum!

Thanks to everyone again for all the awesome advice and I'll be sure to monitor the forums! Y'all rock!


Oh how I hate rear brake work! My Cousin in law is up from Kali this weekend and just re did my rear brakes for me today on my 89, new shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kit, everything cleaned and lubed properly. They work better than they ever have since I bought the truck.
 

Desertfireguy

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Hey you cheated! Gotta do that stuff yourself! Actually, I'm not looking forward to doing the whole job myself either. Just glad I could get a little more life out of them for now. Might let her rest tomorrow (minus fixing the blend door), but pleased that so far all this stuff has been relatively cheap and easy to fix.

Any other sage words of advice on this one? I believe this post is coming to a fizzle.
 
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