Gut check me....please!

[Desertfireguy]

Hello all, newbie to the forum and rookie when it comes to diesels. I just picked up a 1992 F250 4X4 7.3IDI non-turbo M/T with just over 310K miles. She starts up fine every time and sounds good. Guy I bought her from had some knowledge, but not sure what all he rigged up. I'm currently in the process of swapping out the brake/clutch pedal assembly, since I wanted to start from fresh and see how the plastic bushings fair from new. There also seems to be something missing from the passenger side of the engine compartment over the wheel well and I don't have anything hooked to the blend door, which I'm guessing is what's missing. Am I nuts for buying a 22 year old truck with 300K mi?!? Even crazier to think she'll do fine towing another vehicle half way across the USA?!? I look forward to getting some pics up and digging through the forums more.

 

[Can30Diesel]

Welcome to the forum!

Don't forget to put your truck's details in your signature for future reference and the avoidance of repetitive questions.

I'm assuming there were some existing issues with the clutch pedal assembly? Or was there something else that brought attention to it?

I don't think you are crazy buying a 22 year old truck, I bought a 85 F250 that sat on a farm for who knows how long.. Im the crazy one. (Though in my defense it was free and came with spare parts).

The thing thats missing might be the regulator for the alternator. Lots of people went with internally regulated alternators to avoid dealing with the external regulator which seemed to die randomly. But pictures will help narrow that one down.

I'm sure others will chime in.

 

[towcat]

Hello all, newbie to the forum and rookie when it comes to diesels. I just picked up a 1992 F250 4X4 7.3IDI non-turbo M/T with just over 310K miles. She starts up fine every time and sounds good. Guy I bought her from had some knowledge, but not sure what all he rigged up. I'm currently in the process of swapping out the brake/clutch pedal assembly, since I wanted to start from fresh and see how the plastic bushings fair from new. There also seems to be something missing from the passenger side of the engine compartment over the wheel well and I don't have anything hooked to the blend door, which I'm guessing is what's missing. Am I nuts for buying a 22 year old truck with 300K mi?!? Even crazier to think she'll do fine towing another vehicle half way across the USA?!? I look forward to getting some pics up and digging through the forums more.

welcome to the site. you actually are very fortunate there is a small, but extremely helpful group down there in lost wages. take a look around the site especially in the "events and get togethers" section to figure out who they are. oh btw....300k highway miles is nothing for these trucks. I own two that are well north of that number.

 

[madpogue]

Nothing's more "nuts" than payments and insurance on a new truck. At 22 years, you'll get nickel and dimed on wear-out things like the pedal box stuff you're dealing with, but they're still nickels and dimes compared to the big bucks it costs to own a new truck, esp. given how little you can DIY anymore.

Take a pic of the area under the hood where something's apparently missing, and post it. Someone will figure it out.

You'll be happy with the new pedal box bushings. Night and day when I changed mine out.

 

[vegas39]

Hello all, newbie to the forum and rookie when it comes to diesels. I just picked up a 1992 F250 4X4 7.3IDI non-turbo M/T with just over 310K miles. She starts up fine every time and sounds good. Guy I bought her from had some knowledge, but not sure what all he rigged up. I'm currently in the process of swapping out the brake/clutch pedal assembly, since I wanted to start from fresh and see how the plastic bushings fair from new. There also seems to be something missing from the passenger side of the engine compartment over the wheel well and I don't have anything hooked to the blend door, which I'm guessing is what's missing. Am I nuts for buying a 22 year old truck with 300K mi?!? Even crazier to think she'll do fine towing another vehicle half way across the USA?!? I look forward to getting some pics up and digging through the forums more.

Check your pm's, I'm in Vegas also.
We wouldnt call you nuts around here, we all love our old, payment free trucks. If I had a new truck with a warranty and a big payment, I wouldnt have anything to work on or tinker with and that would get boring!

 

[Danielle]

Welcome and I third that!

 

[KZF250]

Hello from Denver...30 year old truck here with 200k...so far so good.

 

[Desertfireguy]

Here's the area in question. The more you can identify the better. Thanks for the warm welcome. I've got one foot in NV and the other in TX. I'll be moving out that way in a few months.

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*edit* What about this one?

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[madpogue]

^^^^^ Linky no workie.....

 

[Desertfireguy]

I expect to receive the clutch pedal assembly tomorrow and was trying to do some prep. One article I read said to make sure the slip bearing was greased, so I crawled under there today and saw this. HELP!!! Please let me know if this is a big concern. Looks like whatever it is, is open to the air and is also missing a bolt.

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I'm guessing this one is the clutch release? Not sure how I feel about the zip tie! What part of this do i grease?

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This one I'm guessing is the gear selector in the top right and the m/t drain?

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[Dieselcrawler]

the slave cyl pic, that is not a zip tie. it is a plastic strap that can hold the pushrod in for removal of the slave.

and correct to both on the bottom pic

 

[madpogue]

First pic is the inspection cover. Some folks just do without it. It's really just a dust cover. IIRC, it's an M6 bolt. The real concern with that cover is the front edge. The original has a "lip" that juts forward, very close to the engine oil pan. With enough vibration over enough time, that lip can slowly "saw" into the oil pan. Not a good outcome. Ford sells a replacement without that lip, or you can remove the cover and grind / cut the lip off and reinstall.

Last pic, no, that's NOT the gear selector. The shifter goes directly into the transmission from above (aka "top load"). That linkage and the detent block are for the 4x4 shifter. It's the part that requires you to "PUSH DOWN" to shift from 4HI or 4LO to neutral. An important thing to lubricate. Some fellas even go to the trouble of drilling and threading in a zerk fitting.

 

[Desertfireguy]

Thanks a lot! Do you happen to know what's missing in post #8 on the left side of the pic (passenger side engine compartment over the wheel well)? Also, what am I looking to lube with the clutch slip bearing? I really am a rookie, and I'm originally an Okie, so you can't dumb it down enough for me! I have to say, I'm really glad I joined this forum. It's refreshing to see people help others out, without asking for anything in return. Faith in humanity slowly being restored! Thanks again!

 

[vegas39]

Not really seeing anything missing. I know in my two trucks, there is a voltage regulator and a low vacuum switch mounted there but you look to have the newer style alternator which may be internally regulated. As far as the low vacuum switch, dont know if it was moved somewhere else on the later trucks, or maybe just eliminated.

Maybe someone else with a newer model will be along to give a better idea.

 

[Desertfireguy]

I don't see any air lines to the blend door actuator, so that was my first guess, but still unsure. Any advice on what/how to grease the slip bearing?