Let's here on the different kinds of gooseneck balls you all have and how you like them. I've got a hide-a-ball, not sure of the brand. Ball is mounted on a crosspin and rolls over into the bed flat when not in use. I pull a trailer alot and pretty good loads too, the pin is starting to get a little loose. It gives a little bit of jerk on bad roads. I was told the replacement top part with ball in it is about 90$, not bad for about three and a half years use.
goose neck balls
- Thread starter gwhammy
- Start date
TPCDrafting
Structural Steel
I have the B&W turn over ball. Very easy to use, except when I get some fine dust or fine hay particles down in between the receiver and the ball hitch. Then it can be very tough to get out. I pull GN's often enough I usually leave it up unless I need to haul some plywood or DW.There is no play whatsoever in the hitch.
A friend borrowed my GN horse trailer a while back and he has a roll over type hitch. I didn't like it because it had a big plate in the bed, plus the safety chain hooks are too close to the ball and when he turned sharp, it would squash my safety chain hooks and ruined the little spring loaded keepers. Not sure what brand he has, but he bought his own trailer now.
A friend borrowed my GN horse trailer a while back and he has a roll over type hitch. I didn't like it because it had a big plate in the bed, plus the safety chain hooks are too close to the ball and when he turned sharp, it would squash my safety chain hooks and ruined the little spring loaded keepers. Not sure what brand he has, but he bought his own trailer now.
I've got a regular ball, on a big plate, in the 62. I have no worries about hooking under anything, except for lack of power.
Got one of them side flopper jobs, in my 91. Great concept, if the lazy moron that installed it would have flush mounted the plate, instead of on top of the floor. Still nice, if you want to haul something. Pins is still pretty tight, but it does move side-to-side a little. nothing too noticeable.
Got one of them side flopper jobs, in my 91. Great concept, if the lazy moron that installed it would have flush mounted the plate, instead of on top of the floor. Still nice, if you want to haul something. Pins is still pretty tight, but it does move side-to-side a little. nothing too noticeable.
FaC
Registered User
I have the Pop-UP hitch and am happy with it. This is the one that has the pull rod above the LR tire to extend the ball. The plate has two sets of holes that you can chose for the safety chains and the outside setting does not let the hitch hit the chains. I was able to install it my self without having to lift or un-bolt the bed. It uses existing holes in the frame but I also added one hole on each side to make sure that it did not have any way to move fore/aft.
FWIW - FaC
FWIW - FaC
MIDNIGHT RIDER
Full Access Member
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5/8 plate 36 x 30 welded and bolted through double frame F-350 85 model
20 x 20 5/8 plate welded under the big plate
30,000 hi-rise 2-5/16 ball with lock-washer tossed, bolted through both layers of plate
Welded around perimeter of nut on underside
Been in continous use some 15 odd years
Easily pull twice what the truck will move
No chains as they are a joke = snap the instant the trailer hit the end of the slack and throw a broke chain through somebody
20 x 20 5/8 plate welded under the big plate
30,000 hi-rise 2-5/16 ball with lock-washer tossed, bolted through both layers of plate
Welded around perimeter of nut on underside
Been in continous use some 15 odd years
Easily pull twice what the truck will move
No chains as they are a joke = snap the instant the trailer hit the end of the slack and throw a broke chain through somebody
MudHog
Registered User
B&W here
love it to death and wouldn't buy anything else. pull a 25' flatbed min float fairly often with misc loads.
love it to death and wouldn't buy anything else. pull a 25' flatbed min float fairly often with misc loads.
MudHog
Registered User
sassy,
Depending on local state DOT would depend on what's needed and what's not.
For example, LA requires chains up to a certain weight, then they are not required.
Depending on local state DOT would depend on what's needed and what's not.
For example, LA requires chains up to a certain weight, then they are not required.
jlayne
Bondo Bandito
tack weld the safty chains on... they look good to the dot if you do it right and won't go into orbit if the chain gets a load.. or make the hooks on the end of the chain out of some aluminum or some type of tube and paint it black.. it will just straighten out
works for me... i don't see how wrecking my truck will change the outcome of a trailer coming off
works for me... i don't see how wrecking my truck will change the outcome of a trailer coming off
91f250hyper
Registered User
i have the draw-tite rails like them alot. they do stick up about 1" but have yet to get in the way of anything. pull 12,000 on the gn dump tailer all the time and never had a problem yet. just drop the hitch in put 4 pins in and go or take it out and put the fifth-wheel hitch in and go camping.
