Glow Plug Solutions from Classic Diesel Designs

Dirtleg

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Would these work for a factory turbo GP controller location?


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I haven’t made any, but I can put one together to work with the valve cover mount for the turbo trucks. It will be $45 shipped, has a few upgrades to handle the extra heat around that rear glowplug

Count me in for one of these too.
I was going to make my own but if you've already got one available or nearly so, I'll just get it from you.

Awesome.

And FYI Flying back to Austin Friday. May be able to get some time Sunday afternoon to drop by. You going to be around?
 

Thewespaul

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Count me in for one of these too.
I was going to make my own but if you've already got one available or nearly so, I'll just get it from you.

Awesome.

And FYI Flying back to Austin Friday. May be able to get some time Sunday afternoon to drop by. You going to be around?
I should be here, I’ll shoot you a pm with my cell
 

WarNose

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I sure can, it would be $100 for the complete harness, you’ll pull ignition power from the factory temp switch, so the glow plugs will only auto activate if the coolant temp is below 135*, should help make your controller and glowplugs last a good bit longer. All the wiring will be premade, you’ll just need to tap into the factory harness at that one spot.

Sounds good. I'll take one please. Is it Paypal or? So this one would would also be 10 awg because of the longer run?
 

Noiseydiesel

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I’m fighting my glow plug system right now. I’m not much of a mechanic so my understanding of the controller is limited. Can you explain what the controller does when you have the manual system installed? How do I prove my first responder status to get my 17.00 discount? ;-)
 

Noiseydiesel

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My 6.9 came home as a project. I replaced the controller and Motorcraft, not Autolite, glowplugs.
The truck did show up with a toggle switch on the dash from the prior owner override.
I kept the switch but instead of using it to power up the relay, I am using it to only send power to the controller when I first start it in the morning. Usually 8 to 10 seconds of run time and it starts right up. After it starts, turn the switch off and leave it off.
My decision for leaving it with a working controller was to reduce the chance of a mistake by some one else, I didn't say 'wife'.
 

franklin2

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Wes, can you do a kit to relocate the stock controller to the fender? Just the wire harness. I would like to relocate mine but I don't want to go to a manual controller.

I would be careful changing the wiring with the stock controller. Not saying it won't work, but there is the possibility it won't glow the plugs correctly. The stock controller was calibrated with the original AWG wire in the original lengths. Any change in the resistance in the wiring will change how long the original glowplug controller glows the plugs. If you move the controller itself, that means you are changing the wiring lengths to the glowplugs themselves, which it does monitor.
 

Thewespaul

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I would be careful changing the wiring with the stock controller. Not saying it won't work, but there is the possibility it won't glow the plugs correctly. The stock controller was calibrated with the original AWG wire in the original lengths. Any change in the resistance in the wiring will change how long the original glowplug controller glows the plugs. If you move the controller itself, that means you are changing the wiring lengths to the glowplugs themselves, which it does monitor.
This is true, ideally its best to eliminate the stock controller to alleviate these issues, but I dont think the additional length of wire will make a huge impact on the performance of the glow plug system, all of the wires are gaining the same amount of length, so any increase of resistance if at all will just slightly increase the burn time, which really helps on the colder mornings where normally you would have to cycle the plugs twice. Havent had any issues with the stock controllers in the months of testing Ive been doing. Realistically, if you ohm out the crumbly stock harnesses with the age they are now they read out all over the place, but still seem to work decently enough for our trucks:)
 

franklin2

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Increase in resistance will make it short cycle. Increase resistance will mean less current through the z bar, just like having 1 bad glowplug makes it short cycle.

I hope it works, everyone keep their fingers crossed. I just wanted it to be something to keep an eye out for. If you have already extended the glowplug wires themselves and it worked ok, then that's that.

If a problem does arise, maybe you can increase the AWG of the wire to offset it. It would all be experimentation though to zero in on something that worked.
 

Thewespaul

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Increase in resistance will make it short cycle. Increase resistance will mean less current through the z bar, just like having 1 bad glowplug makes it short cycle.

I hope it works, everyone keep their fingers crossed. I just wanted it to be something to keep an eye out for. If you have already extended the glowplug wires themselves and it worked ok, then that's that.

If a problem does arise, maybe you can increase the AWG of the wire to offset it. It would all be experimentation though to zero in on something that worked.
Right, these are NTC resistors so resistance works in the opposite direction of temp. Ill do some digging through my manuals before I build these, I seem to recall there was a factory spec for the allowable ohm range for the glowplug harness, Ill get that and manipulate the wire gauge to get it within that spec. I was already planning on going with a larger gauge so no issues there. Thanks for the brain jog, we've got an awesome community here!
 

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