Fuel Sending Unit HELP...
- Thread starter D.A.V_Oil_Brnr
- Start date
2 pins for the sending unit, and the 2 other pins must be the pump power which you do not need.
Keep at it, let's get all the little surprises and details worked out on this. It's a big problem with these trucks, and people can choose to modify the JCWhitney unit, or if you get it all worked out, modify the 460 unit.
I wonder what mods would be needed to use a 87-up 460 unit in the diesel.
Keep at it, let's get all the little surprises and details worked out on this. It's a big problem with these trucks, and people can choose to modify the JCWhitney unit, or if you get it all worked out, modify the 460 unit.
I wonder what mods would be needed to use a 87-up 460 unit in the diesel.
Yup that's exactly right.
The 87 up sender uses a different ohm reading, It will physically fit just the same but the fuel gauge wont work.
Fuel sending units in Ohms.
GM---MT = 0 -- Full = 90
Ford---MT = 73 -- Full = 10
Chrysler --- Same as Ford
AMC---MT = 240 --- Full = 33
GM---MT = 0 -- Full = 90
Ford---MT = 73 -- Full = 10
Chrysler --- Same as Ford
AMC---MT = 240 --- Full = 33
bigblue85
Full Access Member
go to lmc..they sell exact replacements again for a decent price!!!! i have been through this trouble my self
Here's the LMC page: http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=57
but if it's less than 90 bucks you're looking for, jerry rigging appears to be your only course of action.
I'm no big fan of jerry rigging unless it's temporary to get you home... especially on a buried part like a fuel sender.
I do like the price of that 38 gallon extended range tank though! Problem I see with the rear tank going bigger is, spare tire may not fit underneath. Sorry for the high jack moment there... irrelevant I know, but a nice little find related to fuel systems.
but if it's less than 90 bucks you're looking for, jerry rigging appears to be your only course of action.
I'm no big fan of jerry rigging unless it's temporary to get you home... especially on a buried part like a fuel sender.
I do like the price of that 38 gallon extended range tank though! Problem I see with the rear tank going bigger is, spare tire may not fit underneath. Sorry for the high jack moment there... irrelevant I know, but a nice little find related to fuel systems.
D.A.V_Oil_Brnr
M88 Junky
LMC
I spoke at length to LMC and by the end of the phone conversion, I ended up WITHOUT buying a sending unit. The reason is that the guy on the phone was not sure if he had a sending unit that would even work. That said, he had me send pictures of my unit to him and he emailed the warehouse. I should be getting an email form him today....
I spoke at length to LMC and by the end of the phone conversion, I ended up WITHOUT buying a sending unit. The reason is that the guy on the phone was not sure if he had a sending unit that would even work. That said, he had me send pictures of my unit to him and he emailed the warehouse. I should be getting an email form him today....
Looks like part #43-4068.
Mechanical pump only requires 2 pin, internal pump requires 4 pins..... as suggested earlier by franklin2. Those 4 pin are on gassers only! The plastics or rubber will deteriorate if used with opposite fuels....just like we never use teflon tape on any fuel or oil part....Right?!
If you want to spend your money twice, use the 4 pin or whatever you can lay your hands on... but I'd spend the extra dough to get the correct part for such a PITA part location.... and in spite of its convoluted design! Course... that's just me.
D.A.V_Oil_Brnr
M88 Junky
Pita parts Pita parts stores
Well, the problem with getting the correct part is as follows :
1) LITERALLY no store in the entire United States (including Ford parts department, knechts, oreilleys, autozone, lmc, and many others) sells the DIESEL SPECIFIC unit. THey ALL sell EVERY other sending unit on the planet. the 6.9L DIESEL is the ONLY unit not sold.
2) The ONLY place in the United States that can do ANYTHING is a place back called Tri-Starr. And, to REBUILD your current unit the price is $185.00. Here is why : (I personally spoke to the rebuilder) To replace fuel float- $25.00, to replace resistor (the guy has to HAND WIND a new one)-$85.00.
3)Parts yards are the only "cheap" option left, and most of the units there will be in some sort of disrepair
4) The Ford parts tech told me that ANY sending unit from ANY Ford truck between 1985 and 1986 will work as long as the fuel tank is 19 gallon.
5) This leave only ONE option left : the many forum pages talking about altering the units. This is the reason why most of the guys say screw it and use the 4 pin connector anyway and/or modify another unit.
I hope this clarifies clearly. my opinion on the matter : :
Well, the problem with getting the correct part is as follows :
1) LITERALLY no store in the entire United States (including Ford parts department, knechts, oreilleys, autozone, lmc, and many others) sells the DIESEL SPECIFIC unit. THey ALL sell EVERY other sending unit on the planet. the 6.9L DIESEL is the ONLY unit not sold.
2) The ONLY place in the United States that can do ANYTHING is a place back called Tri-Starr. And, to REBUILD your current unit the price is $185.00. Here is why : (I personally spoke to the rebuilder) To replace fuel float- $25.00, to replace resistor (the guy has to HAND WIND a new one)-$85.00.
3)Parts yards are the only "cheap" option left, and most of the units there will be in some sort of disrepair
4) The Ford parts tech told me that ANY sending unit from ANY Ford truck between 1985 and 1986 will work as long as the fuel tank is 19 gallon.
5) This leave only ONE option left : the many forum pages talking about altering the units. This is the reason why most of the guys say screw it and use the 4 pin connector anyway and/or modify another unit.
I hope this clarifies clearly. my opinion on the matter : :
Looks like part #43-4068.
Mechanical pump only requires 2 pin, internal pump requires 4 pins..... as suggested earlier by franklin2. Those 4 pin are on gassers only! The plastics or rubber will deteriorate if used with opposite fuels....just like we never use teflon tape on any fuel or oil part....Right?!
If you want to spend your money twice, use the 4 pin or whatever you can lay your hands on... but I'd spend the extra dough to get the correct part for such a PITA part location.... and in spite of its convoluted design! Course... that's just me.
I don't believe that if you are running regular pump diesel. Regular fuel line and o-rings that work for gas, work for pump diesel fuel. Now if you are running some other concoction of fuels, that may be a different story.
And I miss-worded my other post. In this thread we are discussing options for a 86-down diesel, but I was wondering what would be the options for a 87 up truck also. I am thinking 87-up may have only one 460 option, a 1987 sending unit, since later on they went to fuel injection, and it might have a totally different plug or fuel lines that would not work at all. Someone probably knows if it would work or not.
It may work for awhile, however, like the addition of alcohol to gasoline creating goo out of every o-ring in an older gas system, care must be done when planning replacement of parts to insure they will indeed hold up.
Both plastic and rubber based fuel lines are made for their specific uses.
Having said that, there are dual use fuel lines for example. The A1 rated fuel hose can handle either fuel, however, once you introduce something else, as you suggested, say like reacted veggie fuel(Many diesel facilities have added to their fuel supply streams like ethanol to gasoline), it may adversely affect the longevity and reliability of the product.
Whether or not those fuel senders are dual fuel compatible, I can't tell you.
BUT!
What I do know is, both the gasser and diesel 19 gallon fuel tanks spell out different part numbers for the senders of mechanical fuel pump models, although they appear similar on the outside.... are they really the same? The diesel sender even spells out "Diesel" in the description.
Both 19 gallon fuel tanks themselves can be used for either gasoline or diesel, also indicated by the part numbers, and that same tank fits both systems. It's the senders that are different.
Just sayin'!
I'm all about helpin' a bruthah out, but there are things in the other wet community I've seen, that makes my neck fur stand up on certain issues... this is one of them times. I'd rather be certain, it's a lot of trouble to replace one of those buggers.
I'm not trying to call anyone out, just my own intuition "and" lack of knowledge on these parts thinking out loud. Plus I'm highly interested because my fwd fuel tank is reading zero too! Although in my case, I think it's more a loose float issue- won't know until I pull it apart- than it is a ohm's issue. I've seen those particular floats dislodge before....yeees, got 'em in the boat side too. A standard wine cork can cure that problem.....and yes.... those are proper floats from factory on most fuel floats whether gasoline or diesel. The metal ones actually fail more frequently because they're looped/clipped around v. rod stuck through center.
Both sending units are made from metal and the connectors on both are plastic, Your stock fuel lines hook up the exact same way they did before and it physically fits in the tank just like stock. But where the unit I'm using is intended for an electric fuel pump it has no pickup tube so you must clamp a piece of fuel rated hose on the line to reach the bottom of the tank which is what most guys do anyway when the pickup falls off the stock unit. So really there isn't much difference between the two.
The diesel sending unit is a "odd duck" because it has a return line fitting made on it. Any other sending unit with a return line has a pump mounted to the sending unit, whether it was the 460 carbed system, or the fuel injected systems. None of the regular gas units with a mechanical fuel pump use a return system that I know of.
justcuz
Registered User
Check this place outhttp://www.centroidproducts.com/.
Guy built an F250 on www.GoFastBroncos.com called the BajaF250 and built his own tank, but used the stock Ford fuel guage. This is three wires but one is a ground. I think he paid around $65.00 shipped for this one. Check out the truck, It is not diesel but it is definately a beauty. The fuel tank construction and sender info is on pages 11-13.
Guy built an F250 on www.GoFastBroncos.com called the BajaF250 and built his own tank, but used the stock Ford fuel guage. This is three wires but one is a ground. I think he paid around $65.00 shipped for this one. Check out the truck, It is not diesel but it is definately a beauty. The fuel tank construction and sender info is on pages 11-13.
