Hi everyone,
I have a 93 F240 4x4 7.3 NA, and I'm trying to figure out how to diagnose a fuel gauge problem that I think is related to the fuel sender.
With the selector gauge set to rear, my gauge reads full and drops normally as I consume fuel in my rear tank.
With the selector gauge set to front, the gauge reads empty no matter how much fuel is in the tank.
I'm fairly confident my selector valve and switch are working because with the front tank selected, I drove until the engine started to sputter/run out of fuel. I switched to the rear and the sputtering/stalling stopped, suggesting to me that the valve did its job.
So far I've checked the resistance of the front sending unit, which is sorta tricky (getting the voltmeter leads to stay put is hard), but I believe it reads 15 ohms. Is there a definitive way to test if the sending unit is bad, or maybe it has a bad connection, without dropping the tank? Would the gauge read empty due to some other cause other than the bad fuel sender?
Thanks for the help!
I have a 93 F240 4x4 7.3 NA, and I'm trying to figure out how to diagnose a fuel gauge problem that I think is related to the fuel sender.
With the selector gauge set to rear, my gauge reads full and drops normally as I consume fuel in my rear tank.
With the selector gauge set to front, the gauge reads empty no matter how much fuel is in the tank.
I'm fairly confident my selector valve and switch are working because with the front tank selected, I drove until the engine started to sputter/run out of fuel. I switched to the rear and the sputtering/stalling stopped, suggesting to me that the valve did its job.
So far I've checked the resistance of the front sending unit, which is sorta tricky (getting the voltmeter leads to stay put is hard), but I believe it reads 15 ohms. Is there a definitive way to test if the sending unit is bad, or maybe it has a bad connection, without dropping the tank? Would the gauge read empty due to some other cause other than the bad fuel sender?
Thanks for the help!