Fuel issues?

[onetonjohn]

I agree seeing as how these are classic glow plug issue symptoms. If it was fuel drain back, then the engine still wouldn't "start right up" after "throwing a little bit of gas in the intake". There was no mention of missing or starting, running for a few seconds, and then dying again.

What would it mean if it fired right up and then died? My brown truck started doing this when starting from front tank.

 

[Cant Write]

@onetonjohn people smarter than me will chime in, but it’s fuel drain back from the return system.

Air is entering somewhere when the pickup is off and allowing the fuel to drain back to the tanks to various degrees.

There enough fuel between the filter, IP, and injectors to start the pickup, then it sees the air (from drain back) and dies. Then you have excessive crank to purge the air out of the system.

 

[Clb]

I've had an occasional problem when accelerating where it starts acting like maybe fuel starvation? It gets rough, loud, sounds like maybe it's missing (?). If I let off on it and accelerate slower it stops.

This is the main part I was lookin at...
Not gunna be glows.
Easy starts but poor acceleration is the issue.

 

[Cant Write]

Could it have slipped timing at all, like the pump didn’t get tightened down enough....?

Like maybe the getting loud when on the pedal is injector knock or rattle....cause it goes away if he eases up on the go pedal....

 

[LowTech]

This is the main part I was lookin at...
Not gunna be glows.
Easy starts but poor acceleration is the issue.

That part was a couple years back.

 

[LowTech]

I agree seeing as how these are classic glow plug issue symptoms. If it was fuel drain back, then the engine still wouldn't "start right up" after "throwing a little bit of gas in the intake". There was no mention of missing or starting, running for a few seconds, and then dying again.

I do have an electric pump and since I have to wait for the glow plugs to do their thing I hear the pump come up to pressure. Right now it's taking longer than it should do I imagine it's squeezing some air which gets in because of the leak at the filter head?

 

[LowTech]

It runs great when started. I do have a non working fast idle solenoid so it's a bit rough running for a bit when the nights are cold but they haven't been yet this year.

 

[LowTech]

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RH side is feed from Lift Pump.
LH side is supply to IP
Hose on top fuel return from IP

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The white wire my finger is on will disable the trigger for the GP Relay.

Prolly a fuse you could pull, but my doghouse is easy to pull and not blocked.

I'm hoping there's another option but if I need to that will be my approach.

And thanks for the filter head info, I'll match that to my view and see what I come up w/.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Air is entering somewhere when the pickup is off and allowing the fuel to drain back to the tanks to various degrees.

There enough fuel between the filter, IP, and injectors to start the pickup, then it sees the air (from drain back) and dies. Then you have excessive crank to purge the air out of the system.

This is just about right. The only wrong part is that there's an issue where there isn't a perfect seal when the engine's not running. The lack of seal lets the fuel drain back which then allows air in. Think of your fuel system as a straw. You put the straw into a liquid, put your finger over the end of the straw, and lift the straw out of the liquid. As long as your finger has a good seal on the end of the straw, the liquid stays in place. Remove your finger and the liquid drains back out of the straw. The same thing happens with our fuel systems. It's a small detail, but it can help you go in the right direction. It's also possible to have an air "leak" and not see any fuel on the outside.

 

[LowTech]

Got in there and cleaned it up best I could w/ what we have on hand out here. Then I ran the pump while checking for new leaking. It seems to be coming from the filter to IP line right where it connects to the filter head. I checked and it's tight so I'm guessing it's an inverted flair(?) and I'll need to replace the line?
If that's the case this would be a good time to move the filter head down near the pump and change both the old line from the mech pump to filter head & head to IP . . . yes??
Is the head threaded regular pipe thread at those ports?

 

[chillman88]

Nope not inverted flare. Should be a little rubber seal

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Sometimes referred to as olives. Parker Vibra-Loc

 

[LowTech]

Looks like the closest dealer is 70 miles away. Do you know what size they are and some online sources?

 

[Brian VT]

...or you could build/buy a hard line delete kit. It does away with the "olives".
Member TYP4 sells them. https://russrepair.com/fuel-system-components/hardline-delete-kits/

I don't know the specific parts/threads you need to build it. That's why I bought mine from Russ.

 

[LowTech]

That's kind of what I imagined doing, only if I was doing that I'd move it as well and then the fuel line would be too short. If I can just get some olives I'll leave it in place until I'm somewhere other than open desert before moving the filter down below.

 

[Brian VT]

Russ (TYP4) also sells olives. He might be willing to get some out to you quickly.

Olives and Viton O-rings for a fuel system seal up.

russrepair.com

I don't know the specs. to see if you can get them locally. I'm sure someone here does.