Fuel issues?

[LowTech]

I've had an occasional problem when accelerating where it starts acting like maybe fuel starvation? It gets rough, loud, sounds like maybe it's missing (?). If I let off on it and accelerate slower it stops.
Since this has started I've changed out the fuel filter, and installed and electric fuel pump, a Walbro FRB-13 (I'm pretty sure the mech pump was leaking, hard to see on the van) and it has still happened. I've not driven it much since putting in the walbro so haven't had it happen loads, so far just once.

Any ideas?

 

[Philip1]

You might have a fuel restriction somewhere in the system. If possible it would be best to route a fuel pressure gauge inside the cab and see what the pressure is doing when it acts up.

 

[riphip]

Are you running a water dispersal additive and an in-line filter between tank & pump? Not feeding mechanical pump with electric. Run some Hotshot Diesel Extreme in the tanks & check for improvement. Can get most anywhere.
May have small leak at filter head under heavy load(heater??)

 

[LowTech]

You might have a fuel restriction somewhere in the system. If possible it would be best to route a fuel pressure gauge inside the cab and see what the pressure is doing when it acts up.

That's a good idea. Wouldn't mind having one mounted permanent.

 

[LowTech]

Are you running a water dispersal additive and an in-line filter between tank & pump? Not feeding mechanical pump with electric. Run some Hotshot Diesel Extreme in the tanks & check for improvement. Can get most anywhere.
May have small leak at filter head under heavy load(heater??)

Plan on getting both an inline glass tube filter pre-pump and some of that Hotshot once we get near civilization.

The mech pump was removed and the hole plated.

As far as the filter head leaking around the heater, I know removing them is fine but then they need to be tapped to plug. My intent has been to remove the stock filter unit from on top of the engine and move it down on the frame near the pump, is there any reason to keep the stock one and not just go w/ a good aftermarket one?

 

[Cubey]

Plan on getting both an inline glass tube filter pre-pump

I'm not super happy with mine. It's designed to come apart to replace the element inside, so it can be prone to leaking at both ends if it's not tightened just right. You can't go nuts tightening it or you'll break the glass. Even just wiggling it can make it seep out fuel, it seems like. It's not leaking at the moment I don't think, but I need to keep an eye on it. I might just replace it with one of these if it keeps making itself leak: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL3972

 

[LowTech]

I'm not super happy with mine.

Interesting, I've always had them on my gas engines and liked them. Thanks for the update on yours.

 

[Cubey]

Interesting, I've always had them on my gas engines and liked them. Thanks for the update on yours.

Oops, that plastic one I linked from Napa is 5/16 but it might work well enough on a 3/8" hose if you get the clamp tight enough.

I think these $4 metal ones are 3/8" but they don't say. You can't see into it but it's not expensive to replace if you suspect it's a problem.
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-t...alast-fuel-filter-ff3330dl/830807_548882_6138

I have yet to drive the RV much since I did the fuel pump conversion, but I did see it seeping after install until I tightened it up, which means loosening the clamp at one end so it can rotate inside of the hose at the end where it's being tightened. It seems to want to come unthreaded easily when you're messing with it.

 

[LowTech]

Ok back at it. So right now I'm getting hard starts, or not at all, when the engine is cold. I'm pretty sure it's because I have a leak at the filter head and and I get air in when it sits.
I've also never tested the glow plugs and suspect that they are not in the best condition.
I've reverted to starting it like I do my oil burning deuce . . . throw a little bit of gas in the intake and she fires right up. W/ that being the case what's the easiest way to shut down the glow plug circuit w/o having to get to the back of the engine?

Also, does anyone have an image of the filter head from the top w/ everything labeled as to what it is? I need to figure out this leak and it's hard to see in these gen 4 models.

 

[Clb]

Sorta sounds like internal i.p. issues, right after air intrusion, drainback , and possibly the advance circuit and timing.
Let's toss loose ip power wire in.

 

[LowTech]

The IP was replaced a few thousand miles ago and I found a pre electric pump air leak that I fixed. At this point it starts instantly if it's been run any time up to about 6 hours previously.

Now I'd like to know what the filter head config is so I can determine the leak source and how to disable the glow plugs w/o moving everything inside and pulling off the shroud to get to the back of the engine . . . unless I really have to do it there.

 

[Clb]

Check the stickies and tech 101 stuff yet?
I think that the different glowplug systems are in there.

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I.p. would be a bit of a stretch, new pumps are seemingly hit and miss.
Standyne still has " factory authorized" rebuilers out there but no one on the interwebs will pat them on the back.

 

[LowTech]

Thanks! Checking . . .

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I.p. would be a bit of a stretch,

I agree seeing as how these are classic glow plug issue symptoms. If it was fuel drain back, then the engine still wouldn't "start right up" after "throwing a little bit of gas in the intake". There was no mention of missing or starting, running for a few seconds, and then dying again.

 

[Cant Write]

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RH side is feed from Lift Pump.
LH side is supply to IP
Hose on top fuel return from IP

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The white wire my finger is on will disable the trigger for the GP Relay.

Prolly a fuse you could pull, but my doghouse is easy to pull and not blocked.